Experienced cue makers please help with leather wraps

Enigmaticul

Enigmaticul

Banned
So I have a unique leather wrap machine. I have done close to 20 leather wraps but most of the time I am having issues with the bottom part of the cue beeing a couple of mm to much. I am following step by step like the cd instructs me but still I get overlap at the bottom.

Is it because some leather stretches more then others?
 
Enigmaticul said:
So I have a unique leather wrap machine. I have done close to 20 leather wraps but most of the time I am having issues with the bottom part of the cue beeing a couple of mm to much. I am following step by step like the cd instructs me but still I get overlap at the bottom.

Is it because some leather stretches more then others?
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Without seeing your procedures, I'd say yes. With some exception, most leather wraps can be cut about 1/32" short when dry. Also it is a good practice to set and fit your front then your back beginning to put together each seam. Then put together at the center and then complete the seam and work out any air pockets. If you use contact cement its best to have the reducer so you can keep the cement at a working consistency from job to job. In the summer here, contact cement will thicken in a hurry.

If you are not doing so already it helps to have an orientation centerline on a small piece of tape on each end of the wrap (and on the wrap channel ends) so that you are aligning the wrap correctly on the cue (and having the seam where you want it to be). I think the Unique DVD shows this. If using contact cement do not wait until the contact is completely dry but rather only partially dry. You don't want the wrap to "freeze" when you go to put it in place.

I hope that helps. Martin
 
leather wrap

What Martin said :) orientation problem, wrap needs to be center and straight.

Mario
 
Remember the fixture does allow for razor blade thickness. Make sure you cut with the blade straight up against the top cutting plate. If you angle the blade it will change the width of the gap in the leather when they seam. Another tip is to lightly (I mean lightly) pull on the ends of the leather when locking in each of the ends. This will make these ends a little shorter and allow the seam to be flawless. Softer leather needs pulled a little more and harder leather which I do not touch the ends when applying the top rail.

When applying contact cement wait about 3 minutes (yes I time it) and then start working the leather so you can move it into place. This will allow you to position the seam before pressing it in place.
 
Are you saying the length of the wrap end to end is too long or the seam overlaps at the bottom?

If the seam overlaps at the bottom, then you weren't putting enough pressure on the plate to keep the leather from moving. I've had the same problem.
 
pescadoman said:
You don't need a scalpel to get perfect results Tony, just a clean cut.

If you think I'm wrong, grab a McWorter cue and have a look. He uses plain ole razor blades.
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True that. Tried scalpel on the seams and it walked too much.
At the top and bottom, I can see where a scalpel can pivot better than regular razor
I've watched the De Angelo and Unique videos countless times .
I've figured out ways to make life easier .

The two jigs are great but they do have some quirks you have to work around and figure out.
 
Randy,

I have done countless leather wraps with a Unique jig and the blade does make a difference. For lizard I always use a scalpel and for everything else I use a shop blade, a particular kind...
If you use an utility knife blade, it's too thick and the seem will not look good, trust me. You just have to be careful when you do the end of the wrap.
 
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Guerra Cues said:
Randy,

I have done countless leather wraps with a Unique jig and the blade does make a difference. For lizard I always use a scalpel and for everything else I use a shop blade, a particular kind...
If you use an utility knife blade, it's too thick and the seem will not look good, trust me. You just have to be careful when you do the end of the wrap.
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Countless... that is a lot...

I apologize. Although he never said lizard. To the best of my knowledge, McWorter has never done a lizard. Furthermore, he uses a pretty simple wood jig he made himself.

I bought a scalpel and had the same experience as Joey. Maybe I'm just obtuse.

Care to share the "particular" kind of blade you use?

I've been using these and dewalt carbide.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_78819-281-2084300US_0__?productId=3452402
 
Randy,

I said countless yes... might be a good idea to start writing down every time I put a leather wrap. Never thought about it...
 
The only way to get good at leather is practice.
I find that stretching softer leather before tightening the screws works well.
I basically follow the unique video almost exactly.
 
cuejo said:
The only way to get good at leather is practice.
I find that stretching softer leather before tightening the screws works well.
I basically follow the unique video almost exactly.
Click to expand...

EXCEPT the cutting template.
I'm too lazy to measure the cavity now.

I also mark the centers AFTER I cut the top and bottom on the stretchable template.
 
pescadoman said:
Still waiting on your choice of blade...
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I certainly wouldn't want to be argumentative, but the Unique DVD clearly shows
using a single edged razor blade. And, they toss the blade after making ONE
cut with each end. Utility blades, as Rick pointed out, not only are
beveled, but compared to a razor blade, are dull as a stone. They are quite
sturdy tho.

IMHO - if you want scalpel sharp at a fraction of the cost - gen out a holder for a double-edged razor blade.

Dale
 
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