ferruel keeps breaking

3

3cfan

Registered
This is a Predator Z2 shaft. I believe the original tip diameter was 11.75mm (.4625 in.).
I bought this used and the tip is currently about 10.72mm (.422 in.). The ferrule length is short about 3/8".
I use this as a carom (3-cushion) cue. I realize this is a small diameter to use for the large carom balls, however, I prefer this shaft to any others I play with. I also prefer a pretty hard tip. The ferrule has broken 3, maybe 4 times. My local cue maker has repaired it with different materials, phenolic, melamine, not positive what else. All have broken in a relatively short period of time, less then 1 year.

I'm looking for opinions as to a more suitable materiel to use for the ferrule, or ideas how to solve this problem. Also, would a fiber pad under the tip help? Would a metal ferrule work?

Two pictures attached, hope they show up . . .
 

Attachments

  • ferrule1.jpg
    ferrule1.jpg
    13.1 KB · Views: 675
  • ferrule2.jpg
    ferrule2.jpg
    14.2 KB · Views: 668
Looks like the shaft was re-tenoned and ferrule replaced.
The tenon looks threaded. PReds do not thread their ferrules afaik.
They're very thin and are better off not threaded.
 
i might try

a 1/2 inch moose antler ferrule. they are very strong, but to me it seems like they have a bit of impact give
 
JoeyInCali,
Thank you for your reply.
Would it be better to eliminate the threads and make the ferrule wall thicker?
Do you have any thoughts on a metal ferrule?
 
3cfan said:
JoeyInCali,
Thank you for your reply.
Would it be better to eliminate the threads and make the ferrule wall thicker?
Do you have any thoughts on a metal ferrule?
Click to expand...

You can try Mason's Micarta ferrule.
Those are extremely durable . A carbon fiber pad wouldn't hurt either.
Reducing that tenon should help.
 
Last edited:
The ferrule material pictured looks to me like the old Grice stuff.

It was a linen or melamine based material,but was much softer than even the Ivorine-3. It provided a feel that was crisper than ABS,as well as more durable,but still more prone to cracking than let's say the original Aegis.

The other thing I see in the pics is that for a Z shaft that was modded,it was WELL done,other than the ferrule coming apart. Tommy D.
 
Tommy-D said:
The ferrule material pictured looks to me like the old Grice stuff.

It was a linen or melamine based material,but was much softer than even the Ivorine-3. It provided a feel that was crisper than ABS,as well as more durable,but still more prone to cracking than let's say the original Aegis.

The other thing I see in the pics is that for a Z shaft that was modded,it was WELL done,other than the ferrule coming apart. Tommy D.
Click to expand...

Tommy,

Problem:

Ferrule keeps breaking

Solution:

Stop threading your ferrules and use through hole ferrules with filed v grove keyway grooves and a .005 OD / ID interference fit.

Problem Solved.

JMO,

Rick
 
scdiveteam said:
Tommy,

Problem:

Ferrule keeps breaking

Solution:

Stop threading your ferrules and use through hole ferrules with filed v grove keyway grooves and a .005 OD / ID interference fit.

Problem Solved.

JMO,

Rick
Click to expand...

Rick is right......... if you take an already thin walled ferrule and thread it........ how thick is the wall of the ferrule at the bottom or the threads???? even thinner and weaker???

Kim
 
Tommy-D said:
The ferrule material pictured looks to me like the old Grice stuff.

It was a linen or melamine based material,but was much softer than even the Ivorine-3. It provided a feel that was crisper than ABS,as well as more durable,but still more prone to cracking than let's say the original Aegis.

The other thing I see in the pics is that for a Z shaft that was modded,it was WELL done,other than the ferrule coming apart. Tommy D.
Click to expand...

Pred's ferrule is not aegis though.
Melamine would break easily in that config too.
A half-inch long thin-walled ferrule is just not built for durability or stability imo.
If it's not threaded, it is bound to move and develop a gap at the bottom.
Seen to many move and eventually have that ticking sound and gap at the bottom.
 
Threaded ferrules aren't any weaker than through hole ferrules. That's ridiculous. A 3/8-16 threaded ferrule actually has more meat than a 3/8 through hole ferrule. The issue I see is that the ferrule is probably tapped, not live threaded, and probably was stressed or cracked in the process. The other clue is the OP's user name. He plays 3-cushion. That requires lots of power and lots of side spin, so the shaft is enduring a bit more than a typical pocket billiard game. All the repair guy needs to do is use a more durable material with either a thick cap, or a thick pad.
 
qbilder said:
Threaded ferrules aren't any weaker than through hole ferrules. That's ridiculous. A 3/8-16 threaded ferrule actually has more meat than a 3/8 through hole ferrule. The issue I see is that the ferrule is probably tapped, not live threaded, and probably was stressed or cracked in the process. The other clue is the OP's user name. He plays 3-cushion. That requires lots of power and lots of side spin, so the shaft is enduring a bit more than a typical pocket billiard game. All the repair guy needs to do is use a more durable material with either a thick cap, or a thick pad.
Click to expand...

I don't see your logic here......... don't you see material come out when you cut threads ??????

how can it have more more meat????


Kim
 
I agree with all of you,which is why I haven't spent money on Predator shafts,simply because I don't believe in them based on ferrule design and material choice.

My point was that for a tenon that obviously wasn't original,it was done well,and had a nice fit between the tenon and threads.

Anyone know why the original Aegis disappeared?

I also agree that can't be the strongest setup in the world.

More than one way to skin a cat,LOL. Tommy D.
 
whammo57 said:
I don't see your logic here......... don't you see material come out when you cut threads ??????

how can it have more more meat????


Kim
Click to expand...

You don't drill a 3/8 hole to thread, you drill a small one. 3/8 is the major diameter of the thread.

Even so there is no way this shaft has a 3/8 tenon. With a ferrule size of .422 that would leave a combined wall thickness of less than .050. The picture clearly refutes this. Going to a capped ferrule will solve much of the problem. 3-C tips run in the 10.00mm range without a problem.
 
whammo57 said:
I don't see your logic here......... don't you see material come out when you cut threads ??????

how can it have more more meat????


Kim
Click to expand...

A 3/8 through ferrule has a 3/8 hole.
A 3/8 16 ferrule has a .330 or so hole.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top