First cue - maintenance advice needed

M

McM

New member
Hey everyone,

I'm new around here, so please be gentle. :grin:

I posted a similar thread in another forum, but thought I'd also post here as there seems to be a lot more walkthrough on this site (therefore, potential for much more feedback!). :)

I've started getting into pool (9 ball & 8 ball) in the last few months. I've developed quite a passion for it, so thought it was time to invest in a decent cue to pick up the pace a little (house cues around here are pretty awful).

I bought a McDermott C265 Pearl Plus Mars Red last week, and have a couple of questions regarding the cue:

It was purchased brand new via an authorized McDermott dealer. When it arrived on my doorstep, I noted that most of the shaft's finish/gloss had been removed (only a small portion at the base of the shaft still has that glossy finish).
Should I buff this remaining finish off with Q-Wiz to make it uniform, or leave it as is? Is there a reason this is done in this way?

Some pics:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2628/4101939915_747d646734_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2629/4102693852_717920ecbf_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2692/4102694920_1d66d35574_b.jpg

What is the general consensus on how to clean/maintain your cue? There's so much info online and in forums, but I haven't been able to find a definitive answer that I'm comfortable with.
I was thinking of wiping the shaft down with a dry microfibre cloth between games, using the Q-Wiz on it as necessary, and applying some carnauba wax every now and again to help keep oils/sweat/etc from harming the wood? Is carnauba wax used on cars recommended/safe to use for this purpose - like P21S 100% Carnauba?
http://www.p21s.com/products/bis_100cw.html
Will it harm the wood at all, or cause any undesired outcomes, considering that the glossy finish has been removed and is now unsealed?

What are some of your routines?

Your comments/feedback on my regime would really be appreciated. I'd hate to do the wrong this and ruin the shaft.

Thanks in advance all.

Looking forward to being part of this great community! :)
 
the oils and sweat aren't going to hurt your shaft. i let my shafts get filthy and i haven't had a problem yet.
 
buying cues is fun aint it! :)

first thing is to ding the shaft a few times...it;s gonna happen, just get it over with:grin-square: then get a good tip burnisher....it will mushroom over the next few weeks.....get a tip tapper, or tip pick to keep the tip roughed up a bit. I dont clean the shaft, but I do use plain white paper or a business card to slick the shaft every time out of the case.

have fun with it...

G.
 
poolplayer2093 said:
the oils and sweat aren't going to hurt your shaft. i let my shafts get filthy and i haven't had a problem yet.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input, poolplayer. I probably phrased that badly. I just mean, I see a lot of players talking about waxing their shafts. It seems to be common practice, be it for protection, for feel, etc.

Is it safe to wax unsealed wood though? We're on the verge of experiencing consistent 99F + temperatures and high humidity here in Oz, and I'm not sure whether I'll have issues with my shaft if I do indeed wax it - ending up with wax all over my hand when playing, or having it seep into the wood and damaging it. I could be way off here.. (??)

To summarize what I plan to do:
-Wipe down with dry microfibre between games
-Chux Magic eraser dipped in a tiny bit of water (I'm assuming this is the same as Mr Clean Magic Eraser?)
-Q-Wiz as needed
-A few layers of carnauba wax every month or two

Also, is there anything specific one needs to do to keep the irish linen wrap clean/maintained?

Thanks again everyone. This noob greatly appreciates your advice. :)
 
Don't worry about the gloss near the joint, as you'll never bridge that far up the shaft anyway. There are lots of different preferences on shaft finish. Wax as a sealer is OK, but the level of slippery or slick feeling will vary depending on how fresh the wax is. If you keep your shaft clean you won't need the Eraser for a long time. ME is a fantastic cleaner, but it will leave the shaft very rough, requiring some serious burnishing to get it smooth again. The Q-Wiz and micro mesh are great to get the shaft smooth initially, but not needed often. I happen to prefer a shellac-sealed shaft, but there's more than one way to skin a cat. I do an 90% alcohol wipe-down after every night of play, then burnish with a piece of coarse brown paper bag. It's been over a year since I last ME'd, sealed, and sanded, and my shafts are all clean and smooth.
Bill
 
Thanks for your in-depth responses everyone. GREATLY appreciated!

Though I notice that, DoubleD- you are against using any sort of wax or sealant on the shaft. And this is exactly the kind of varying opinion that confuses me, haha. :grin:

Hmm, to wax or not to wax, that is the question.. :rolleyes:

Thanks again. What a great and helpful forum!
 
I have used Carnuba wax on my cue before and really liked the result. Especially after you play with it a few hours. Just dont use anything that has a color other than white to it (some car waxs are blue and green and what not). I never used the stuff you are talking about though. I think I just used Mothers Carnuba wax. I applied a generous amouth and let it get nice and cloudy on the shaft then buffed it with either a paper towel or a microfiber rag.

I am really picky about the condition of my shaft and have to have it as smooth as can be. I keep a little 2000 grit sandpaper in my case to give it a few wipes if it feels sticky while im playing. I tend to play in alot of bars and stuff and god only knows what im picking up off of the filthy tables. Rubbing alchohol is really all I use to actually clean it though. Sometimes I will burnish it with a piece of leather.
 
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The glossy part towards the joint end of the shaft is the finish. That is normal. Leave it there.

I also do not like to put anything on my shafts. I wipe it down with a microfiber towel or a piece of burnishing leather. Keep it nicely burnished and it's effectively sealed. A lot of people put waxes and stuff on their shafts but I think all of that just builds up and attracts dirt, chalk, powder and dust that just makes keeping your shaft clean and smooth that much harder.

That's just me. As I said many guys do all kinds of stuff. I suppose if you are going to experiment, you first cue would be the one to do it with.

Welcome to the cueing arts and to the AZB community. :wink:
 
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I use Magic Eraser to keep my cue shaft clean. I cut it into 1x1x2.5 pieces. I get about 4 or 5 pieces to each eraser. I carry one in my cue case. After each playing session I'll quickly wipe the shaft down using ME dry - no water ever. I'll then touch up the tip using a dime shape Willard Shaper. When I pull my cue out to play at the next session, the cue looks like new. I use a good automotive cleaning wax with high carnauba content on the whole cue about every 4 to 6 weeks. I also have a leather burnisher that I use about once a week. That's all you have to do. DON"T use water and DON't use sandpaper. To keep the linen looking good, just cut off a sheet of regular wax paper and rub it over the wrap along the linen lines. If you ever get a ding in your cue, then do a search on this forum. There's good advice here about that.
 
I use Bucher's Bowling alley wax available at ACE hardware. Do a search on this site as there are several threads that discuss this procedure in depth. Use a Magic Eraser and denurchered Alacohol ( never water) Burnish with a piece of leather. Follow the good advice about clean hands and gentle on the shaft when playing.
 
I hate sealers on shafts, but wax is okay with me. The cleaning with M/E as other have described is the best way to clean the shaft. I sand my shafts with 1000 grit and then apply a very thin coat of wax (I use TreWax, which is the same as Butcher's - just wax with no cleaners or other crap). Rub the wax in vigorously, let it dry for about two minutes, then wipe it like mad to remove all that will come off. It leaves a very slick - and non-sticky - shaft.

In case you haven't noticed, you will get a lot of different opinions here, but rest assured that any of the suggested methods will give you good results.

The main thing is to buy lots and lots of cues.
 
routine

ok, here's my way..first have a pro get the proper shaft thickness that you like. then when you have that out of the way you can: have sanded & sealed. my way= sand w/800,1000,1200,sealed again then 1500 and last2000 grit paper.it will feel like its going to slip right out of your bridge. then to maintain it I first keep in mind how I chaulk the tip so not to have the dust float down on shaft as I chaulk it, and i wipe with clean towel from joint towards tip between games.next I run some 2000 on if needed to keep in shape until I have it professionally cleaned and sealed again. And always wipe off tip before putting in case to help keep maintainence to a min. jeff
 
DoubleD said:
Fifth, don't use any waxes or sealers on your shaft. I can feel the difference between burnished wood and all of the sticky garbage that people put on the shafts. Most of them attract dirty substances, requiring more maintenance.
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I agree, I usually just wipe down the shaft and burnish it with a good piece of leather. Brown paper bag will do in a pinch. Usually takes several times on a new cue to get a good seal, but after that it's a piece of cake.

Also, you mentioned buying a McD. Register your cue with them so you can take advantage of their free maintenance program. You are allowed to send it in twice a year. You just cover the shipping, but it'll be like new when you get it back.

Like others have said, pick up a few tip tools.
 
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Irish634 said:
I agree, I usually just wipe down the shaft and burnish it with a good piece of leather. Brown paper bag will do in a pinch. Usually takes several times on a new cue to get a good seal, but after that it's a piece of cake.

Also, you mentioned buying a McD. Register your cue with them so you can take advantage of their free maintenance program. You are allowed to send it in twice a year. You just cover the shipping, but it'll be like new when you get it back.

Like others have said, pick up a few tip tools.
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Excellent point on the maintenance program. I think you even get to pick what type of Moori tip you would like put on it at no charge....or maybe that is just for the I shafts.
 
McM

Everyone is going to care for their stuff different. Some people change oil every 2,000 miles and others never change it. I made a homemade lathe just to keep my Cues looking and feeling like new. I can't stand Blue Ferrels and dings in the Cue Shaft. Other people are not so anal about caring for their stuff.
 
Okay. First thng: When making shafts we only finish the first few inches from the joint. Not quite sure why, but we do NOT apply finish all the way to the ferrule. We leave that wood bare. It buffs and smooths very nicely and feels good in your (bridge) hand. Check any custom or production cue; You'll see that they are all (okay, mostly) finished that way.

Then...... play with your cue first. See how you like the feel of the bare wood shaft BEFORE you smear it with wax. Wax MAY give you a somewhat smoother, slicker surface at first, but ..... IT WILL GUM UP over time. Then, you'll have a real cleaning project.

Personally, I shot with a bare wood shaft. Clean it ONLY OCCASIONALLY with magic eraser, burnish afterward with 1,000, 1,500, 2,000, or 2,500 grit sandpaper. YES, I SAID SANDPAPER !!!

That's the way I like it !!! So, that's the way I do it.
 
8Ball48043 said:
Personally, I shot with a bare wood shaft. Clean it ONLY OCCASIONALLY with magic eraser, burnish afterward with 1,000, 1,500, 2,000, or 2,500 grit sandpaper. YES, I SAID SANDPAPER !!!

That's the way I like it !!! So, that's the way I do it.
Click to expand...

I always used a well used peice of 1500 wet/dry after wiping down the shaft with a lightly damp paper towel. It worked OK, but never really got the chalk blue off. I just tried the magic eraser trick and then the 1500. Man what a difference. Cleaned the shaft and ferrule like new and its really smooth now. There goes one of my reasons for missing shots.:grin:
 
When a cue is finished, or refinished the first 8" or so of the shaft is also sprayed. Just ignore it.

I tried every product known to pooldom for shaft slickening and I've stopped using all of them as they ALL leave a residue of some sort and that residue, at some point... sooner or later, collects dirt and gets sticky.

So, the process to a clean and incredibly slick shaft is:

Clean hands.

Tip the cue horizontal or upside down when chalking and this stops a lot of the problem with chalk on the shaft and the resulting grittyness. Wipe the chalk across the face of the tip. Don't grind it.

Wipe it when done with a barely damp towel and dry with a microfiber towel.

Get some micro-mesh abrasive and use that to knock off any roughness that comes down the road. Use 4000 to 8000 grit micro-mesh... same as 800 to 2000 grit sandpaper.

Burnish the hell out of it with leather, or a dollar bill, or a brown paper sack or brown paper towel. I prefer a square of undyed leather about 2x3". Burnish means to wrap it around the shaft and rub up and down fast while holding the leather tightly around the shaft. It'll get HOT and you'll have to let up on the pressure. I try to wipe it at least 50 wipes and as many as 100 but my arm fallls off after 100. :groucho:

You DO NOT need wax or any kind of product on the shaft. Nothing will cause it to be consistently slicker than burnishing a shaft after smoothing it with 1500 or 2000 grit paper or mesh.

If you don't let it get grungy you won't ever need the Magic Eraser... that's for cleaning a dirty cue. Keep it clean with clean hands.
 
I've tried almost everything that everyone else has tried and they all work depending on your standards. I have finally "I think" worked my way to the best "for me" method that I've found. I use the ME to clean it, a series of 1500-12000 grit micro mesh pads to smooth it, a glove on my bridge hand and I chalk with my non bridge hand to keep it off my shaft.
If I look down the shaft during a shot and see any chalk on the ferrule I have to stop and clean it off. I've gotten very anal about the whole thing. Of course you could be like Earl Strickland and never clean a shaft or ferrule. All his shafts look like bar cues and it doesn't distract him at all.Just have fun and remember it's all in the stroke. Don
 
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