Following-up on the Shaft Wax Discussing Methods thread

DJ14.1

DJ14.1

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
There was lots of great info in that thread, and really seems that multiple products and methods could work just fine.

Let me ask this, what are the things NOT to do regarding treating shafts? For some of us who are less experienced maintaining / treating shafts, some feedback here might be just as valuable as the Shaft Wax thread was.

What can get you in trouble or not have the desired effect? What mistakes are easiest to make? If we can get some of that summarized, could help a bunch of us including me. I have a 25 year old Meucci shaft that's just dying to be reincarnated. Haven't done a damn thing to it besides smooth & wipe it from time to time :-)

Thanks for the info. guys.

PS: Maybe the lessons of the shaft wax thread could be summarized by an aspiring helpful individual while we're at it? That'd be nice little document to save on the hard drive or printout.
 
I agree. They can be more specific as to what you should do.
Make sure they understand it's your shaft that needs attention, not your butt. :)
 
There are so many different methods that people prefer.

I have the Grits of sand paper and other things, sealers, wax, that I like to use etc. That doesn't make me right and others wrong, just what I know that I feel comfortable with using.

It is one of those things, you can do anything you like, as long as you don't get goofy and violate the basic principle of prepping, and finishing.

I read one post many moons ago. Someone mentioned that Acetone is a good cleaner.

He forgot to mention that you should never use Acetone for a laminated shaft or on any type of plastic you might have on the shaft. Acetone will eat just about anything in it's way, including every spec of Blue on the shaft.

I will go thru my prepping, use Ammonia with a soft tooth brush to scrub in the tough places. Ammonia is a bit tough on the lungs so some sort of a respirator is a good thing. Doesn't have to be too expensive, even a disposable one as long as it is rated for fumes.

Use alcohol with a Magic Eraser and as a last resort if the shaft is absolutely incorrigible, acetone on Magic Eraser.

Altho there are a few materials that Acetone won't eat, I don't take a chance. I tape off
any other material on the shaft other than wood and make sure that I don't come close just the same.

Other than that, you can make a shaft look like it just came off the rack. Just be diligent with it.

And obviously, no need to go all hay wire on the sand paper. You need only use a finer grit that will take off the finish and some of the grime on there. Basically baring the wood enuff in order to get to the grime and Blue. You don't need anything heavy unless you are planning on re tapering it.
 
If it's a wood shaft, stay away from water based products unless your trying to remove dents or straighten the shaft.
Also avoid using abrasives stronger than 800 grit.
 
Renaissance wax

DJ14.1 said:
There was lots of great info in that thread, and really seems that multiple products and methods could work just fine.

Let me ask this, what are the things NOT to do regarding treating shafts? For some of us who are less experienced maintaining / treating shafts, some feedback here might be just as valuable as the Shaft Wax thread was.

What can get you in trouble or not have the desired effect? What mistakes are easiest to make? If we can get some of that summarized, could help a bunch of us including me. I have a 25 year old Meucci shaft that's just dying to be reincarnated. Haven't done a damn thing to it besides smooth & wipe it from time to time :-)

Thanks for the info. guys.

PS: Maybe the lessons of the shaft wax thread could be summarized by an aspiring helpful individual while we're at it? That'd be nice little document to save on the hard drive or printout.
Click to expand...

Renaissance wax cleans the shaft too, If you had a habit of cleaning your shaft and waxing it a couple time a week you will get all the blue chalk out of it .
Use denatured alcohol and yes it will raise the grain some.
Lighter fluid seems to clean the shaft too.
 
DJ14.1 said:
There was lots of great info in that thread, and really seems that multiple products and methods could work just fine.

Let me ask this, what are the things NOT to do regarding treating shafts? For some of us who are less experienced maintaining / treating shafts, some feedback here might be just as valuable as the Shaft Wax thread was.

What can get you in trouble or not have the desired effect? What mistakes are easiest to make? If we can get some of that summarized, could help a bunch of us including me. I have a 25 year old Meucci shaft that's just dying to be reincarnated. Haven't done a damn thing to it besides smooth & wipe it from time to time :-)

Thanks for the info. guys.

PS: Maybe the lessons of the shaft wax thread could be summarized by an aspiring helpful individual while we're at it? That'd be nice little document to save on the hard drive or printout.
Click to expand...

You have a 25 year old shaft - you've done nothing to it but smooth and wipe it from time to time you say.

Well, I say, that's what you should do .. 25 years is a nice life time for a shaft, even at todays insane prices.
 
Chuck Fields said:
Especially important information if you go to an rub & tug massage parlor....... :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Now this right here is what I've been talking about. I try to make a serious comment about a very important topic like keeping one's shaft clean and look what happens.
When pool players go from pool room to pool room there's no telling what their shafts can pick up. Many times a player will take his shaft into the men's room with him, just to keep it safe, and we all know what a cesspool of dirt, and filth, those places can be. Especially in the more seedier parts of town.
And another thing. Letting other people handle your shaft should never be allowed to happen unless proper protection is provided. I prefer soft cotton gloves, but rubber ones will do in a pinch.
Remember, your shaft will be with you for a long time. Take care of it. :D
 
mortuarymike-nv said:
Renaissance wax cleans the shaft too, If you had a habit of cleaning your shaft and waxing it a couple time a week you will get all the blue chalk out of it .
Use denatured alcohol and yes it will raise the grain some.
Lighter fluid seems to clean the shaft too.
Click to expand...

That's pretty good stuff. I bought some after reading the thread that inspired this one. A little goes a long way though. I got it on a little thick, I think, and it was a bit sticky/tacky until I really burnished it in (longer process than with what I usually use - I am typically a Longoni cue wax followed up with some Cue Silk guy, which is also a solid combo IMO).
 
For shafts that are well cared for (meaning no serious dents),but are just blued up from years and years of use (I see most of these in the form of old guys 20 yr old Meucci shafts),they can almost always be fixed up nicely like this.

I don't always start out like this,but some shafts come out nicer if I start with just a little 400 paper with the lathe ON,just to open the pores.

I go nice and slow with the Eraser while the lathe is on,from one end to the other,using either denatured alcohol or sometimes a mild degreaser like Awesome Orange,Cinch,etc. These days it's a cheap Dollar Tree brand called Oxy.

After this step,I turn the lathe off and rotate to a fresh,clean part of the Eraser,or a new one,a little more alcohol or whatever and scrub it good and hard with the grain,starting from the ferrule and going to the other end. If the first step doesn't get it all,this will get damn near ALL of the junk out.

From there,MOST of the shafts I do can go straight to 600,and my normal finishing process. On others,a little 400 has to be used to get the grain to lay back down,but nothing excessive.

I've bought some more Renaissance wax,and although it's good stuff,I'm still convinced the best stuff out there for shafts is the Longoni. Tommy D.
 
Tommy-D said:
For shafts that are well cared for (meaning no serious dents),but are just blued up from years and years of use (I see most of these in the form of old guys 20 yr old Meucci shafts),they can almost always be fixed up nicely like this.

I don't always start out like this,but some shafts come out nicer if I start with just a little 400 paper with the lathe ON,just to open the pores.

I go nice and slow with the Eraser while the lathe is on,from one end to the other,using either denatured alcohol or sometimes a mild degreaser like Awesome Orange,Cinch,etc. These days it's a cheap Dollar Tree brand called Oxy.

After this step,I turn the lathe off and rotate to a fresh,clean part of the Eraser,or a new one,a little more alcohol or whatever and scrub it good and hard with the grain,starting from the ferrule and going to the other end. If the first step doesn't get it all,this will get damn near ALL of the junk out.

From there,MOST of the shafts I do can go straight to 600,and my normal finishing process. On others,a little 400 has to be used to get the grain to lay back down,but nothing excessive.

I've bought some more Renaissance wax,and although it's good stuff,I'm still convinced the best stuff out there for shafts is the Longoni. Tommy D.
Click to expand...

Just finished my first application of the Renaissance (so maybe I'll change my mind), but I'm w/you...still think I prefer my Longoni.
 
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