full splice, fully cored, sneaky pete
- Thread starter desi2960
- Start date
Looks like you will be buying a 30 inch gun drill. I do not know anyone who sells cored fullsplice blanks.
Drilling a big hole through 30" is stressful on the splice, might get hot & break down the glue holding it together or cause to to warp due to heat. It's totally different dynamics than coring a 15" piece. Be careful & good luck with it. I'd use a few junker blanks to master the technique before diving into a nice one.
I may be wrong, but I believe Mark Bear told me he cored a few full splice blanks, and was willing to do one for me. I believe that was one conversation we had. 1 idea I have is, if you have the capability to core 15-18+inches, try drilling one end first, let it sit and cool down, then drill the other? If your machinery and centering capabilities are true (dead nuts) I think this would work just fine.
Bryan Fisher
Bryan Fisher
If the idea was to core it to reduce weight, why not core the front and butt (or just butt only) individually before being spliced? It would reduce the length of the piece to be cored, thus improving the accuracy of the bore, and would not heat up the glue in the non-existant splice. Then splice it yourself, or send it to Schmelke.
Mr H
Mr H
Mr Hoppe said:
This is the only way to do it right.
OR use a G10 or titanium pin.Mr Hoppe said:
Coring a fullsplice is like mixing wine with diet coke.
Wouldn't you have to core the parts before to gain more than you lose? If you were to core 30" through, wouldn't you lose a lot of the structural integrity of the points. You have effectively turned them into shallow nearly flat bottom points that are attached to the handle. If you cored the individual pieces, you would only have to core the back 18" of the handle.
Just some thoughts.
Troy
Just some thoughts.
Troy
JoeyInCali said:
Can you make an Ebony full splice without either coring or removing (core drilling) weight?
You can chop off the last 4-5 inches and sleeve it.hangemhigh said:
Plug up a maple dowel 5 inches deep or so.
Drilling thru that fork ( bottom of the points ) makes me cringe ( heat, as mentioned ).
I must be missing something here, but...
...can someone please tell me what the advantage could possibly be to coring a full splice blank? I realize that it might make it easier to control weight that way. The only other reason I could think of is that someone wants to use an exotic that is unstable at best, and would need to be cored no matter the construction technique, save that for points, butt sleeves, veneers.
Lisa
...can someone please tell me what the advantage could possibly be to coring a full splice blank? I realize that it might make it easier to control weight that way. The only other reason I could think of is that someone wants to use an exotic that is unstable at best, and would need to be cored no matter the construction technique, save that for points, butt sleeves, veneers.
Lisa
Coring the whole cue?ridewiththewind said:
It's more googanostic.
ridewiththewind said:
Some believe that coring makes warp-age less likely. A cue maker might core each and every cue he builds to achieve a level of consistency in playability. A Ebony full spliced cue would weigh more that the popular weights I would believe. I love an Ebony Titlist, but I don't know if I ever saw one less than 21 ounces. I know they were not cored or core drilled to reduce weight.
hangemhigh said:
Not true.....I had an ebony/BEM uncored full splice cue from Keith Josey that weighed in at 19.35 oz. He does his own blanks, and does not use weight bolts either...the cues are naturally weighted. That cue kicked a$$!
Lisa
ridewiththewind said:
Let me clarify that I was referring to a full splice cue with points no less than 3" or 4" from the bottom of the joint ring. Less than 20 oz. can be achieved if you use less Ebony and more front wood, like Maple. Ebony points falling 6" and more from the joint ring will more than likely come in under 20 oz.
hangemhigh said:
I guess that I am somewhat confused, as with your reference to an ebony Titlist, you are not going to get the points 3" to 4" from the joint collar/ring anyways....unless it's been cut and a handle added under a wrap. If you look at the rare conversion where a Titlist has been able to have been left in it's original config, but with a wrap added, very little of the points are left showing afterwards....falling more than 6" from the joint collar/ring.
Also, in the case of the Titlist, you have the added weight, while perhaps not all that much, of the veneers, not to mention the metal joint. I am naturally assuming that the OP was referring to a non-veneered full splice blank, with an anticipated W2W joint.
Lisa