Guidelines for when to replace tip?

westcoast

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've never exactly known when to replace a tip. I think I'm close to needing a new one, but I'm not sure. I've attached a picture of its current state. Advice?
 

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I've never exactly known when to replace a tip. I think I'm close to needing a new one, but I'm not sure. I've attached a picture of its current state. Advice?


Definitely time to replace that tip.....in my opinion.
I don't like them that small but some people do.
I never go this close to the ferrule. Never.
 
That's not really your playing cue...I don't believe that.

I like the way mine play when they get that low, but usually replace well before that.
 
I've never exactly known when to replace a tip. I think I'm close to needing a new one, but I'm not sure. I've attached a picture of its current state. Advice?

It's hard to know when someone is being serious sometimes. I assume you are joking? In that case, good one.:wink: I did actually laugh, but then the terrible thought struck me: What if he is in fact serious?! I've seen players be happy to play with equipment that looked like it had been mauled by a Rottweiler.

Just in case you are not joking:frown::
1. You are not doing the tip changes correctly. It seems you have taken chunks out of the ferrule when cutting the tip into shape.If you are a bit clumsy and want to do this procedure by hand, I'd advice putting some tape on the ferrule to protect it a little bit. Don't try to do everyting with the knife, if you are not skilled. Just get really close and get the rest with sandpaper. It's really important NOT to sand the ferrule, so keep the tape on the ferrule.

2. Your tip is way too low. It can still be playable, but the problem is that it is not large enough to cushion the blow to the ferrule. There is a large risk of craking your ferrule or even your shaft as a result.

3. Your shaft looks really dirty. Now this doesn't have to be a problem. But in case you are having problems with your shaft being sticky and attracting chalk, you should really consider sealing and burnishing your shaft (after a thorough clean). I recommend magic eraser first. Clean off with microfiber cloth. Use extremely fine sandpaper (at least 1200) and in moderation (and only if you need to). Then wax and burnish. I use wax on the cue shaft. This prevents the chalk from penetrating deeply, and makes it easy to keep clean.

4. If the ferrule is, in fact, mushrooming (expanding laterally at the end closest to the tip) this is usually the swan song of the ferrule. It is taking way too much force (because of the small tip size and maybe breaking with the shaft?). You could litterally be one hard break away from destroying your ferrule. If it is a tenon-through ferrule (which means that you can see the shaftwood (with the ferrule wrapped around it) when the tip is off, then that is extra dangerous when the ferrule is mushrooming. The ferrule is "retreating" from the impact area, leaving the tenon to take the brunt of the impact. The impact is no longer being distributed evenly on the shaft "shoulder" which the ferrule is sitting on, but rather one side is usually getting a lot more force put through it. Not good. Sometimes when the ferrule fails it takes chunks of the shaft with it.

5. If all of this is sounding like too much of a hassle, I recommend getting a repairman to do your tips. It might be cheaper in the long run, what with the Predator shaft costing 300 dollars now, and other manufacturers not being much cheaper.
 
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On fire

Looks melted from following through into the cloth. Soft ferrules such as predator can melt on a hard draw shot etc. :eek::grin-square:


Ya. I caught a fish the other day that had fur too ;)


So what has the lowest melting point the tip, the ferrule or the cloth ?
 
Ya. I caught a fish the other day that had fur too ;)


So what has the lowest melting point the tip, the ferrule or the cloth ?

Predators ferrule..... no joke, they melt if you follow through into the cloth with speed.


As far as the furry fish goes, no gentleman should talk about a lady as such, Mike..... :thumbup:
 
It's hard to know when someone is being serious sometimes. I assume you are joking? In that case, good one.:wink: I did actually laugh, but then the terrible thought struck me: What if he is in fact serious?! I've seen players be happy to play with equipment that looked like it had been mauled by a Rottweiler.

Just in case you are not joking:frown::
1. You are not doing the tip changes correctly. It seems yoru have taken chunks out of the ferrule when cutting the tip into shape.If you are a bit clumsy and want to do this procedure by hand, I'd advice putting some tape on the ferrule to protect it a little bit. Don't try to do everyting with the knife, if you are not skilled. Just get really close and get the rest with sandpaper. It's really important NOT to sand the ferrule, so keep the tape on the ferrule.

2. Your tip is way too low. It can still be playable, but the problem is that it is not large enough to cushion the blow to the ferrule. There is a large risk of craking your ferrule or even your shaft as a result.

3. Your shaft looks really dirty. Now this doesn't have to be a problem. But in case you are having problems with your shaft being sticky and attracting chalk, you should really consider sealing and burnishing your shaft (after a thorough clean). I recommend magic eraser first. Clean off with microfiber cloth. Use extremely fine sandpaper (at least 1200) and in moderation (and only if you need to). Then wax and burnish. I use wax on the cue shaft. This prevents the chalk from penetrating deeply, and makes it easy to keep clean.

4. If the ferrule is, in fact, mushrooming (expanding laterally at the end closest to the tip) this is usually the swan song of the ferrule. It is taking way too much force (because of the small tip size and maybe breaking with the shaft?). You could litterally be one hard break away from destroying your ferrule. If it is a tenon-through ferrule (which means that you can see the shaftwood (with the ferrule wrapped around it) when the tip is off, then that is extra dangerous when the ferrule is mushrooming. The ferrule is "retreating" from the impact area, leaving the tenon to take the brunt of the impact. The impact is no longer being distributed evenly on the shaft "shoulder" which the ferrule is sitting on, but rather one side is usually getting a lot more force put through it. Not good. Sometimes when the ferrule fails it takes chunks of the shaft with it.

5. If all of this is sounding like too much of a hassle, I recommend getting a repairman to do your tips. It might be cheaper in the long run, what with the Predator shaft costing 300 dollars now, and other manufacturers not being much cheaper.

I wasn't joking believe it or not. I really never knew exactly when it was time to replace a tip. I just play until it seems to look too low or when I start to miscue too often. I don't replace my own tips- I take it to a guy that has a billiard supply and maintenance shop- AAA billiards. He usually does a decent job. Anybody in the west LA area know of somebody good?

I always break with my playing cue. I should probably stop doing that. Yes, the shaft is dirty but that doesn't bother me at all.

If anybody cares, it is a r360 cuetec. Plays pretty well for such a moderately priced cue
 
Also, it is the original tip that came with the shaft and I've had it for about a year and a half. I play about 4 times a week for around an hour each time.
 
When I was doing cue repair and someone asked me when should a tip be replaced I would tell them when it's about as thick as a dime. I would go on to say that any thinner than that might damage the ferrule. Seemed like as good an answer as any.
As far as burnishing the side of the tip goes I would fold a piece of paper towel over once, apply (as Chris Hightower used to say) a drop of some good quality spit and apply the paper towel firmly to the side. It worked as well as a piece of leather and would let you know if it was getting too hot. :smile:
 
Predator shaft

I would say there is a chance the tennon under the ferrule might have issues.

Breaking with a predator shaft is really a bad idea, and I think it will void the warranty .

Not everyone know what they are doing when repairing the predator shafts .
The repair guys need to stay up to date with all the modifications .

I am not up to date, and I don't have a predator ferrule . and that is a special ferrule .
I think sending the shaft back to the factory might be a option , but I worry if the tenon is broken .
 
I wasn't joking believe it or not. I really never knew exactly when it was time to replace a tip. I just play until it seems to look too low or when I start to miscue too often. I don't replace my own tips- I take it to a guy that has a billiard supply and maintenance shop- AAA billiards. He usually does a decent job. Anybody in the west LA area know of somebody good?

I always break with my playing cue. I should probably stop doing that. Yes, the shaft is dirty but that doesn't bother me at all.

If anybody cares, it is a r360 cuetec. Plays pretty well for such a moderately priced cue

Nothing wrong with breaking with the playing cue, if the shaft is well designed and the tip has an appropriate height. Only thing is the tip wears faster. The R360 is quite solid, more so than some of the more frail designs by Predator and OB.

The image was fairly small, but to me it looked like chunks had been cut out of the ferrule near the tip. This is usually indicative of doing tips by hand, not on a lathe. If you put your fingers on the ferrule and spin the shaft, do you feel ridges/valleys in the longitudinal direction, like you would if you whittled a stick to a point? In that case, your cue repairman is doing tips by hand, AND is a hack! But before you go off lyncing him, here is a slim chance of the ferrule being defective and pieces flaking off it, but I've never actually seen it happen only heard of it (and never a Cuetec). If you bought the cue second hand, maybe the previous owner did it. A good repairman would talk to you about this, if you handed him a cue in this state!

I've done my tips by hand for years now, and I never damage the ferrule like this! Not ever!
 
Haha > Replace immediately. Pool Players like to get their moneys worth for sure. I like em on the short side out of the gate but it gets to a point where you can miscue and catch your ferrule not to mention crack em. Replace.

Very reasonable investment to keep your tip in shape. The most important component on your Cue:groucho:

-Kat,
 
Nothing wrong with breaking with the playing cue, if the shaft is well designed and the tip has an appropriate height. Only thing is the tip wears faster. The R360 is quite solid, more so than some of the more frail designs by Predator and OB.

The image was fairly small, but to me it looked like chunks had been cut out of the ferrule near the tip. This is usually indicative of doing tips by hand, not on a lathe. If you put your fingers on the ferrule and spin the shaft, do you feel ridges/valleys in the longitudinal direction, like you would if you whittled a stick to a point? In that case, your cue repairman is doing tips by hand, AND is a hack! But before you go off lyncing him, here is a slim chance of the ferrule being defective and pieces flaking off it, but I've never actually seen it happen only heard of it (and never a Cuetec). If you bought the cue second hand, maybe the previous owner did it. A good repairman would talk to you about this, if you handed him a cue in this state!

I've done my tips by hand for years now, and I never damage the ferrule like this! Not ever!
I bought the cue brand new in February 2015. Not second hand. Original tip on it.
 
Most players can play until they get down to about a nickle thickness without any danger.... Getting a new tip and breaking it in won't cost you anything but time...

Pro players and higher level players many times are now playing with layered soft and medium tips and change them on a regular schedule so there is no down time for break in... When I played Kamui SS I changed mine about every 6 weeks of regular/daily play... AT that point the bounce would be completely gone and it would test as a medium
 
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