gun drill bit
- Thread starter Trent
- Start date
I got mine from Chris. Probably as reasonable as anywhere.
What size/length?
A 16" drill is enough using 12" or a little longer fronts and handles. I prefer .750, but .650 will work I imagine. There is a little more of an advantage of weight reduction with the larger drill.
if i had it to do over again, i'd get the oversize too:wink:
but i adapted things to make it work for me
Trent, your core will be about .010" smaller than your drill. If you want a .750 core then get a larger drill. They are custom made anyways. I would much rather have a .750 core than a .740. As all my ring work and butt sleves are .750 Id.
Jim.
Sterling has a 3-4 week wait, but they will know what you are talking about when you tell them the drills are for cues. You will need to decide if you want to mount to tool post or tailstock as the air feeds will be different. They will also want to know what size bore your holder is. I'll sell you a .650 and a .750 for what I paid for them, if you are in a hurry. I never used the .650 and I used the .750 once. both are rear air inlet and for 1 inch holders. I can sell you the holder the .750 is in as well, as it is a press fit......
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Pm sent......
stuff
I have made 6-7, never paid more than 30 bucks. ,625 , .670 , and .745 . I don't like anything bigger than ,670 in forearm, but from a joint back I use the .740 most of time. I buy them off e-bay and plug the back and drill the side , weld on air fitting. turned down the shank to 1/2 inch. The one pictured is .670 and 14" long . Usually go 6 to 8 from each end . have filler ready made and gorrrila glue asap .
Sent one to Siberia to Dmitry ,
I have made 6-7, never paid more than 30 bucks. ,625 , .670 , and .745 . I don't like anything bigger than ,670 in forearm, but from a joint back I use the .740 most of time. I buy them off e-bay and plug the back and drill the side , weld on air fitting. turned down the shank to 1/2 inch. The one pictured is .670 and 14" long . Usually go 6 to 8 from each end . have filler ready made and gorrrila glue asap .
Sent one to Siberia to Dmitry ,
Mc2 said:
Not to mention that if you're buying phenolic Tube, you're going to want to bore it out a bit too. Look at how smooth the inside is. I want something that the epoxy can grab into on the inside of mine.
I wished they just came 1/32" undersized.
That way you can bore the trims to size.
Or if you like them as threaded collars.
I have made 6-7, never paid more than 30 bucks. ,625 , .670 , and .745 . I don't like anything bigger than ,670 in forearm, but from a joint back I use the .740 most of time. I buy them off e-bay and plug the back and drill the side , weld on air fitting. turned down the shank to 1/2 inch. The one pictured is .670 and 14" long . Usually go 6 to 8 from each end . have filler ready made and gorrrila glue asap .
Sent one to Siberia to Dmitry ,
Please bear with my ignorance. What do you mean "Usually go 6 to 8 from each end"? When you say "have filler ready made and gorilla glue asap", I assume that is because after core drilling the remaining cylinder is unstable and might shrink or fracture. If that is correct, wouldn't gorilla glue exascerbate the risk of fracture since it expands? I assume you stop drilling intermittently and use the air fitting to blow out wood fragments? If so, why did you opt to do that rather than intermittently withdraw the drill and blow out with a long blow nozzle? (Perhaps because the cylinder is fragile/unstable, and it's less risky to leave the core drill in?) Your gun drill mod is creative, Thanks. (No, I'm not a cuemaker - just found this interesting.)
If you will look closely at the two picture you will see that one has holes in the tip that run the length of the bit allowing a lubricant to easily flow through. The second picture shows that the shank of the bit is shaped like a triangle. What makes a spade bit, which is the design that a gun drill is based upon, drills incredibly straight. The reason other bits don't drill as straight is that the flutes of the bit fill with wood, plastic or metal and drive it off center. Instead of oil, we blow air through the holes which do a number of things. 1st it moves the cuttings away from the cutting surface. 2nd. the air blows all of these cuttings out the back of the dowel through this V in the shank of the bit and 3rd it cools the bit and work piece. With the proper amount of air both, speed of lathe and travel of bit, both the work piece and the bit only get slightly warm. Properly centered and aligned they will bore very close to dead nuts. I normally can bore a prong within .005 of concentricity. Mine is 16 inch long as I made a mistake in ordering in not allowing for some of the length to be taken for adapting to the holder. I wish I would have ordered either a 20 or 24 inch one so that I could bore the fore arm and collar at the same time instead of cutting the collar off and doing two pieces. There is only around 3 or 4.00 price difference for each 4 inch of length. I am one of the first to start coring cues and started coring my cues in 97 and have cored nearly every one since with only having a problem one time when I had the feed to quick for a piece of ebony. Is it necessary? Who knows but it isn't that much extra trouble and the extra insurance and peace of mind is well worth it.
Dick
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Dick did a excelent job describeing what goes on. I leave about 10 15 lbs of air on all the way thru . Jim
I know what you mean. On the .625" tubing I run a .630" reamer through all of it before making various rings out of it. Then they all go on with the same fit. A .755" reamer is really hard to find.
If the gun drill bit is turning, how can you connect an air hose to the air fitting? Seems you could only connect to the air fitting if the drill is stopped. Obviously I'm missing something - don't laugh too hard.