Help someone run this rack
- Thread starter SoundWaves
- Start date
Patrick Johnson said:
This was my pattern but I had the cue ball farther from the head rail to start. I think there was a little to much pressure and he missed the seven. Opps.
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I'm saying it can't be done this way, but do you realize you played every single shot by going across your position zone. Further, you played position on a single ball on every shot. That's a certain way to end up in a bad position somewhere along the way...I know from experience.RiverCity said:
Mike Sigel was very smart about these types of patterns. He always tried to play a natural angle into his position zone AND he always tried to play into a position zone with more than one ball (if possible). He said something like, "Don't play position on one ball when you can play position on two."
Here's how I would apply Sigel's rules of thumb to this rack:
(EDIT: I've tried & tried to get this to display properly but cuetables being a bit@h today)
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IMO, using the 2 as the key ball is a horrible choice for a novice. Not only is it a fairly long shot to the bottom-left corner, you have to be perfectly straight-in on the shot. If you have any sort of angle, then you're hosed. Too much to expect for a novice.
The 7 ball is definitely the best key ball. You have a huge landing area for an angle on the 7, and after pocketing the 7 you have a huge landing area for the 8, since you have the choice of pocketing it in the bottom-right or bottom side pockets.
The 3, 1, 2, 7, 8 patter sounds pretty good to me. But going from the 3 to the 1 seems a bit too touchy. Under hit it, and you'll either be behind the 11 or get the wrong angle on the 1 to get on the two.
My first instinct was 1, 3, 2, 7, 8. All those shots can be made with slight draw/stun shots.
The 7 ball is definitely the best key ball. You have a huge landing area for an angle on the 7, and after pocketing the 7 you have a huge landing area for the 8, since you have the choice of pocketing it in the bottom-right or bottom side pockets.
The 3, 1, 2, 7, 8 patter sounds pretty good to me. But going from the 3 to the 1 seems a bit too touchy. Under hit it, and you'll either be behind the 11 or get the wrong angle on the 1 to get on the two.
My first instinct was 1, 3, 2, 7, 8. All those shots can be made with slight draw/stun shots.
Actually, I came upon another pattern that is much easier than my previous solution, because the following are all natural angle shots that don't require any draw.
3,1,2,7... best way here. I am seeing some crazy outs! he did say ball in hand on this. Why anyone would look at full length of table shape is beyond me. Place CB out from rail and play with top (trying to follow line that would make 1 straight in). Stop shot 1. Play 2 with top for angle on 7. Depending on angle play 7 with middle or top for 8 in corner or side. The shape played is all zone with very large area for error. max distance traveled is half table.
Right ball?
Having some technical dificulty, have to download something to see the table.......
but that being said,
whenever i play my doubles match, personally i would show my partner what i think would be a good sequence, but i always say GO WITH YOUR GUT.
I'm an "ok " player but i know when my doubles partner shows me the "right ball" to take first and it goes against what my gut instinct was, i rarely finish well.
Personally unless i ask my team mate for help i would rather they just let me get my game on.
Of course there are those really OBVIOUS , hold on! you had ball in hand moments.
matt B.
Having some technical dificulty, have to download something to see the table.......
but that being said,
whenever i play my doubles match, personally i would show my partner what i think would be a good sequence, but i always say GO WITH YOUR GUT.
I'm an "ok " player but i know when my doubles partner shows me the "right ball" to take first and it goes against what my gut instinct was, i rarely finish well.
Personally unless i ask my team mate for help i would rather they just let me get my game on.
Of course there are those really OBVIOUS , hold on! you had ball in hand moments.
matt B.
I'm also a fan of 3,1,2,7.
If you set up the BIH on the 3 correctly then a straight or slightly uphill angle on the 1 ball is pretty much guaranteed. Getting the 'wrong' downhill angle isn't a disaster if your teammate somehow babies in the 3... they can drop down for the 7 pretty naturally.
Patterns I don't like: Anything that has 7-3 or 3-7. I promise you an apa4 can find a way to fck up crossing the full table.
If you set up the BIH on the 3 correctly then a straight or slightly uphill angle on the 1 ball is pretty much guaranteed. Getting the 'wrong' downhill angle isn't a disaster if your teammate somehow babies in the 3... they can drop down for the 7 pretty naturally.
Patterns I don't like: Anything that has 7-3 or 3-7. I promise you an apa4 can find a way to fck up crossing the full table.
You're not hosed with any sort of angle or even with most angles. Anything up to a substantial angle (especially shooting toward the rail) still stops in the general vicinity of the side pocket if the novice doesn't hit it too hard. Even shooting away from the rail the CB either stops short enough or goes past the 8, giving almost as good a chance at shape as other routes to the 8. Furthermore, getting straight in on the 2 (or nearly so) is a simple matter of stunning the shot on the 3. Every other kind of shape on the 8 is more complicated, and every other path to the keyball is way more complicated - this one involves only moderate-speed stun shots and simple follow, with no spin at all.
I stand by the choice of the 2 as the keyball, and by the choice of paths to it. If we had several APA 4s shoot both ways (with instruction about which shots to stop and which one to roll) I'd be willing to bet my way would see the most successes because each part of it is the simplest kind of shot with the most room for error. The only real assumption is that the APA 4s can shoot easy stop shots.
My 3 cents.
pj
chgo
3, 1, 2, 7, 8.
I think the routes listed are too risky for my tastes. I would do this and then go from the 7 to the 8. I ran out of balls to use 
but try to get to where the chalk is which isnt that hard.
but try to get to where the chalk is which isnt that hard.I consider yours the second worst choice...the worst being the big dipper outline. If the player is weak, they will probably over hit the 7 and be on the side rail leaving a blind pocket shot on the 1. The CB travels away from any natural line for shot on next ball. If by chance they are lucky enough to land on the 1 and pot that long shot, they could leave bad shape on the 3. If they finish too far int he middle of the table for the 2 they have another long shot. this time the 2 being cut down rail with a scratch in side. take the shortest shape and shot route. I see too many possible worst case in this pattern. Every shot can end badly with shape or even miss these half table pots.Patrick Johnson said:
Jason Robichaud said:
Who had the big dipper??
Rivercity had something going on... Not sure what constellation he outlined. 7 to 3 was horrible. Don't hit 8, 1, side pocket or corner pocket for shape on the 3. That shot takes a skill higher than 4. His CB travels completely around the table while running out.
softshot said:
3,2,7,1,8. This is the pattern I like too. To use the 3 to get to the 1 like everyone else is using, and maintain a high position to drop down to the 7 is tough because the 11 ball is in the way, leaving a very narrow window for good position and not hooking himself. I would say if you went 3,1, then the run would probably stop there for a SL4.
To go from the 3 to the 2 gives lots of latitude of staying high, maintaining a slight angle on the 7, then using middle ball stun to come up straight on the 1-ball leaves a natural stop shot on the 1 for the 8. Even if they don't land straight, they can still drift a little to either side or follow for the 8 for either the side or upper left corner (nearest the 7).
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