Here's a question for you guys?

[realkingcobra]

How do you get a 1,183lb GC4 to not compress into thick shag carpet/padding, to the point that years later the table can be removed without leaving any signs that a pool table had ever been setting on the carpeting?

After I'm done setting up Fred's GC4 which use to be Fatboy's I'll post pictures of how you do this

Glen

Cuebuddy, you can't answer this question, because you saw how I did it...:rotflmao1:

 

[OTLB]

well you could make a little wood coaster 7.75 inches in dia and put nails or screws in it so it went right to the floor.

 

[realkingcobra]

well you could make a little wood coaster 7.75 inches in dia and put nails or screws in it so it went right to the floor.

You're right OTLB, but roofing nails 1 1/4" long work best if used with 3/8" plywood. The plywood keeps the nails standing upright, yet leave a clearence of 7/8" of an inch of suspension above the sub-flooring, and the wide heads of the nails give a good support as well against the bottom of the legs of the table. I'll post pictures shortly.

Glen

PS, I belive we had this converstation in the past already, during one of our phone calls.

 

[OTLB]

no I don't think so thanks John

PS credit goes to Pat 911 now that i think of it

 

[fsarfino]

Please do post the pics and method.

Thanks

Frank

 

[n10spool]

there called carpet saves and they sell them in most stores... The problem is there to small a diameter upto 3" made of plastic with molded spikes cheap in price, work great on home tableswith narrow legs or feet.

As for GC feet I agree the plywood and roofing nails is best so far. the only other thing i have found to work already made were from a cooking store were trivet heat pads with spikes but there always slick {slippery} so you need to add a little glue to stick them but they dont look good under the legs.


I vote on plywood, nails and paint still look the best all around.

Good post Glen..

Craig

 

[realkingcobra]

Bracing the end frame rail on a GC4, and getting the table up off the carpeting, really pretty easy if you think about it. It also raises the playing surface of the table by 1 1/4" without having to turn out the leg levelers at all other than to level the frame

 

[fsarfino]

Looks like a great idea. the one surprising thing to me is that the nails dont bend at all under the weight.

 

[realkingcobra]

Looks like a great idea. the one surprising thing to me is that the nails dont bend at all under the weight.

I put 20 nails in each piece of plywood straight down, the heads of the nails can't push through the plywood because the weight of the table is actually on top of the nail heads, and the plywood keeps the nails pointing straight down. If this was a different kind of table, like a normal home style table, I'd double up the plywood, held together with screws and the roofing nails in between the 2 pieces of plywood, then set the table on top of that Painted black, they kind of look like they belong with the table.

Glen

 

[Cuebuddy]

How do you get a 1,183lb GC4 to not compress into thick shag carpet/padding, to the point that years later the table can be removed without leaving any signs that a pool table had ever been setting on the carpeting?

After I'm done setting up Fred's GC4 which use to be Fatboy's I'll post pictures of how you do this

Glen

Cuebuddy, you can't answer this question, because you saw how I did it...:rotflmao1:

How did you know that I would be sneaking around these parts of the forum?:shocked:

 

[realkingcobra]

How did you know that I would be sneaking around these parts of the forum?:shocked:

I'm in Vegas all the time it seems...so it was a safe bet...knowing you

 

[realkingcobra]

Brought forward for new readers:grin:

 

[center pocket]

You talked about the table being raised up an 1 1/4". I am getting my table next month and I have always wondered about having a table thats an inch taller to help my back. Im 6' 1". Is it worth it or even practical to do it? Would I notice a huge diffrence when going to the pool hall? The table is a diamond pro am.

 

[Dead Crab]

Having the table surface height at 33-34" is much easier on your back. Many pool hall tables are set to the minimum 29", which is unfortunate.

 

[realkingcobra]

You talked about the table being raised up an 1 1/4". I am getting my table next month and I have always wondered about having a table thats an inch taller to help my back. Im 6' 1". Is it worth it or even practical to do it? Would I notice a huge diffrence when going to the pool hall? The table is a diamond pro am.

The Diamond proam is already 1" higher than a standard Brunswick, and can be raised even higher without a problem:grin:

 

[bigfish67]

I can see you made the plywood with the nails. What about the part in between the plywood and the table foot. Did you make it or is it something I could buy? If so where could I get 4?

Thanks
fish

 

[ROB.M]

part in between the plywood and the table foot

lazy Susan leg leveler..allows the level of the leg to be adjusted with out taking the load off leg..... -
i hope to make time to look for a set or two in storage that i have promised to look for...Sunday sounds like a good day to look
they are pricey....
-
Rob.M

 

[iusedtoberich]

Glen and fellow mechanics, a few questions:

I'm about to make a set of these carpet feet this weekend for a GC4 table I just purchased (not delivered yet).

1. Can you tell me the exact diameter the leg levelers are?

I measured the GC4's at my local pool room, but I could not get a very accurate diameter because the vertical part of the leg obscures the center. I did not have a tailor's tape measure with me to measure the circumference either. I estimated the diameter at 8", but again, I couldn't get the tape measure right over the center with the tools I had with me.

2. I read the earlier post, but just to double check, the bottom of the GC4 leg is completely flat? And that's why a second backing piece of wood is not required to keep the nail heads from moving?

3. 7/8" is the target number for the nail's exposed length? (I might use thicker wood as I want my table taller)

4. Regarding the angle iron bracing for the GC4 frame: I have some scrap angle iron from years ago in my shop that has the holes punced in it every inch. Is this type suitable for the bracing? I think the one you have in the picture posted where you made your own holes might be a slightly thicker gauge metal.

5. Again regarding the angle iron bracing on the GC4: I crawled around my local room's floor looking under their GC4 tables. They have the same frame as in the picture you posted, that needs the bracing. I felt the wood of the cross member and the long member, and they were not planer. They were off maybe a 1/32" inch or so. I obviously do not know if they were planer from the slate side of the joint.

It is my understanding that GC4's (I could be wrong) are assembled at the factory, then while assembled, the top of the frame is planed smooth and planer. Then they are disassembled and shipped. This means the bottom of the frame can have steps at the joint areas, but the top would still be planer.

So my concern is if we now put an angle iron brace on the bottom of the joint, the top of the joint will have a step, and the bottom would be planer. Maybe none of this matters as the slate is on shims anyway? Can you set me straight if this matters or not? I've never seen the slate installed on a table, so I'm not sure how important it is for the frame to be planer.

6. It looks like you are using lag bolts for the bracing? What size are they? I'm going to make a HD trip to pick them up...


Thank you.