Hill Hill card exercises

SeniorTom

Well-known member
I am always looking for ways to improve cue ball control, as I only about 8 months experience playing pool. I can pot the balls quite well, but my bane is cue ball control. I purchased the hill hill card deck that has many exercises in it. A card here shows a lineup of balls to be pocketed with ball in hand, and pocketing the 8 ball last. There are probably many different ways to execute this exercise, but I was wondering if anybody had any suggestions on how they would proceed? Thanks
 

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I would go for the lone ball first since it’s furthest from every other ball. Next I’d go for the ball above the 8. Then go sequentially until the last ball on the rail. Depending on its angle, go either 1 or 2 rails for the 8 in the side.
 
I would go for the lone ball first since it’s furthest from every other ball. Next I’d go for the ball above the 8. Then go sequentially until the last ball on the rail. Depending on its angle, go either 1 or 2 rails for the 8 in the side.
That sequence has crossed my mind, with me wanting to emphasize going for the furthest ball away first. I have read that is a good plan in most runs so you don't have to go back and forth on the table. Good point!
 
I think I would start with the ball directly above the 8 (the ball on the spot) to focus on getting great position on all 3 above the 8, it should be pretty easy getting back to the lone ball, its virtually center table and you have 6 pockets for it and its close to the 8.
 
I think the main thing to get out of these types of "fixed position" drills is to teach yourself. Pick a pattern and play it. Play it 5 times in a row. Then try another pattern. Play that 5 times in a row. Keep going until you learn for yourself which is best. You will pick up countless ways to move from one ball to the next, as each attempt (of even the same pattern) will be different.

I've done the same with 9 ball patterns. Marked a whole rack with doughnuts and tried to get out dozens of times in a row, trying different routes between the balls. Then going back a few days later, and even a few weeks later, with the doughnuts still on the table and repeating. Even with a single layout of balls, you will learn so much. I still remember the shots 4 year later from one pattern when they come up in a real game.
 
I am always looking for ways to improve cue ball control, as I only about 8 months experience playing pool. I can pot the balls quite well, but my bane is cue ball control. I purchased the hill hill card deck that has many exercises in it. A card here shows a lineup of balls to be pocketed with ball in hand, and pocketing the 8 ball last. There are probably many different ways to execute this exercise, but I was wondering if anybody had any suggestions on how they would proceed? Thanks
This is your standard lineup drill. It's not a beginner drill but attempting it will show you where you stand. Start by going through it using only the bottom rail and maintaining the same angle all the way up. The spacing expands as you go up table so you your cue ball placement needs to reflect this expansion. IOW, by the time you're on the last ball, your cue ball should be up by the first diamond on the long rail. The cue ball will have a very narrow corridor between the ball and the first adjacent diamond on the bottom rail. ( I used to lay a stick along this line as a guide. ) Essentially, the idea is to keep the cue ball moving perpendicular to the bottom rail. It's like flying a helicopter.
 
Your closest thing to a trouble ball is that one near the rail so I would get it out of the way first or second. If you are confident you can pocket the lone ball and get a shot on that rail ball that is a good start. However, if you aren't confident of this, shoot the ball on the rail first.

Not as important on this exercise as some others but understand the concept of bridge balls and using them. Struggling a little with cue ball control you might find yourself using that ball nearest the eight as a bridge ball to get to that single ball if you need to. What bridge balls do is break up long shots. With a full rack on the table the balls playing into side pockets might be bridge balls if they are close to the pocket. Insurance balls are another concept to understand. If you have to play tough shape on one ball, try to make sure there is an easy shot left also so that if you miss the tough shape you can shoot the easy shot and try again on shape. I try to never have a tough shot and tough shape at the same time. It takes a little time to learn that level of pattern play but it is usually possible to avoid a tough shot with shape that is difficult to achieve on the next ball.

You already know you need to work on cue ball control. Find games and drills you like so that you can focus on cue ball control at least thirty minutes a session. Obviously the cue ball is the only ball you can hit directly with your stick so mastering it is a must. What level of mastery of the cue ball will almost certainly govern how high you rise in pool. At one point I devoted 2000-3000 hours to cue ball control.

Two mistakes I often see people with your experience make are trying to get too close to your next ball and trying to get too straight onto the next ball. Speed and angles let you use minimum spin and you should be trying to avoid more than slight sidespin right now. Many progress from a little sidespin to a lot then back down to a little. You will pocket more object balls and fewer cue balls if you try to plan so you don't need a lot of spin.

Now is a good time to build the foundation you will be using from now on. I would strongly advise avoiding that excessive spin stage but none of us seem to be able to avoid it. Fun to watch the cue ball whipping around the table. Speaking of whipping around the table, minimum cue ball movement is another good strategy. A cue ball rolling a short distance gets in a lot less trouble than one cutting a lap or two of the table.

Good luck, and don't forget to have fun!

Hu
 
A cue ball rolling a short distance gets in a lot less trouble than one cutting a lap or two of the table.

Good luck, and don't forget to have fun!

Hu
Very good posts from 'straightline' and 'Shooting Arts'. In reference to what I quoted from Shooting Arts is so true, it seems when I send the cue ball flying it causes so much trouble. I lost a match a few weeks ago by losing the first game of the set hitting the eight ball in with a flying cue ball. I was able to get to Hill hill, but my opponent finished me off. I will heed the advice of both you and put it into practice. As a matter of fact, these type of practice sessions have paid off for me already on controlling the cue ball. They may seem like simple cards with games on them, but they actually have some very good cue ball control lessons. Thanks again, senior tom.
 
Good advice there from Hu.

Always remember there are principles in pool that should always be followed and then break them all! Seriously, there are rules and they all should be broken for particular reasons at the right time. Only experience with tell you when. In the mean time, remember balls on the rails cause problems and should be addressed early. Try to limit side spin if possible and especially early in your learning phase. Speed is very important, but so is accuracy. If your accuracy is off, that will change your speed. Sometimes the smallest amount can sink the ship. Pay attention to your patterns and always try to improve them. Play position into the angles and not across them. Play position on the right side of the angle as well. A lot of newer players always hit the ball too hard as well. Depending on your equipment, work of speed. Like Hu said, minimal cue movement is preferred especially when a beginner. Most importantly, enjoy the journey and have fun. Few become Pros and it may not be what you expect if you ever get there. Enjoy.
 
Your closest thing to a trouble ball is that one near the rail so I would get it out of the way first or second. If you are confident you can pocket the lone ball and get a shot on that rail ball that is a good start. However, if you aren't confident of this, shoot the ball on the rail first.
That was my thinking, too. I'd take the ball on the rail into the top left and come back for next ball in the same pocket. I'd try to get on the third ball to shoot it in the side and follow to shoot the bottom ball into one of the bottom corners and take the 8 into the top corners.

I guess an important question to ask is how you feel about deviating from your planned routes. With 8 ball, especially early in the rack with more traffic, I often find it beneficial to play for a position with more options. The cue ball may actually land in a small window that gives me good access to a difficult ball to reach, so I may play for a position with 2 potential shots. Typically, the last 3 or 4 balls will have a pattern that is more necessary.

Here is a Bert Kinister workout that has the most common shots:
I've found most shots have a strong similarity to one of these shots, or at least use the same skills. I also like repeatedly shooting a single ball and trying to land the cue ball accurately. It's easier for me to focus on the nuances because I'm not moving on to the next shot. I also get frustrated if I don't complete a multi ball drill, so this helps me keep a positive attitude.
 
I am still a work in progress on Mr Chainsaw exercise, maybe successful half the time. So here is another I am working on, called Drift. It definitely is challenging. I have tried several approaches, maybe 20 % success rate. From it's name, I assume they want you to drift from one side to the other? How would you go after this arrangement ?
 

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As a person who is learning how to control the cue ball around the table, I have to give props to this particular deck of cards called hill hill. Each exercise has three levels of difficulty, basically beginners, intermediate, and a more advanced exercise. This is pretty much what I was looking for for exercising my control, a picture of each exercise on a card or other hard copy type. A couple of these exercises are really more difficult than the rest, but they all put me to the test. A few of them I fail more than I succeed which is good, because if it's too easy it doesn't teach you a whole lot. These are really beneficial to my game and I would think for anybody trying to learn how to control the cue ball. A well worth investment!
 
Tom, I've found it very helpful to first understand what the cue ball is doing when struck.... what it's doing on the way to the ball.... then understanding why the change before contacting your target.

Realizing these actions & understanding that, makes one learn/engrain in your muscle memory the improvement/quicker.

I'm very good at typing but often struggle with my explanations, when I'm not hands on.

It's helpful to understand how you mind processes what you're doing/seeing.

By knowing your background and how your mind works, this helps me/you especially to understand what's before you faster.

When you're making the same mistake on certain shots, that's easy to fix/see but, if you're all over the place, fundamentals must be addressed first.
 
I am still a work in progress on Mr Chainsaw exercise, maybe successful half the time. So here is another I am working on, called Drift. It definitely is challenging. I have tried several approaches, maybe 20 % success rate. From it's name, I assume they want you to drift from one side to the other? How would you go after this arrangement ?
If the balls are actually frozen on the cushion, it is a bad drill for a beginning player. Put them a ball or half a ball off the cushion. That will be more like shots you will see in games.

Any time you play a shot -- in practice or in a game -- you should have a very clear goal for where you are going to send the cue ball. Don't settle for "over there where I can see the 3 ball". Instead try for "one ball off the cushion at the third diamond on the side rail". You mentioned above losing a game because you let the cue ball fly around the table on the 8 ball shot. You should have had a specific goal for the cue ball on that shot as well.

I suggest you try the Wagon Wheel drill. It's in Dr. Dave's videos on YouTube and elsewhere. It will teach you a lot about cue ball control.
 
If the balls are actually frozen on the cushion, it is a bad drill for a beginning player. Put them a ball or half a ball off the cushion. That will be more like shots you will see in games.

Any time you play a shot -- in practice or in a game -- you should have a very clear goal for where you are going to send the cue ball. Don't settle for "over there where I can see the 3 ball". Instead try for "one ball off the cushion at the third diamond on the side rail". You mentioned above losing a game because you let the cue ball fly around the table on the 8 ball shot. You should have had a specific goal for the cue ball on that shot as well.

I suggest you try the Wagon Wheel drill. It's in Dr. Dave's videos on YouTube and elsewhere. It will teach you a lot about cue ball control.
Funny/strange, that's exactly what I did, I moved the balls one ball width away from the rails, thinking 'this is ridiculous for me, it's not a practical situation or challenge for my caliber'. It got so much easier ! I will look up Wagon Wheel and try that exercise, thanks for your help!
 
... I will look up Wagon Wheel and try that exercise, thanks for your help!
Here is a video about it. I suggest you just try the drill -- pocket the ball in the side and roll gently on the selected target ball -- before you watch the whole video. See how much you already know or can figure out on your own.

 
No surprise, Bob's advice is excellent! I would shoot with the balls frozen to the rail occasionally too though. Over time tables develop a tiny trough against the rail just like the spot where you rack balls and break from if you focus too much on one spot. Taking advantage of this trough and very slow speed is one of the "tricks of the trade".

I see Bob has followed up with a post that makes mine unnecessary. I will leave mine up just because of mention of the trough.

Hu
 
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