camfer, sorry. doing a million things at once here
both the butt before pin install
and shaft after tapping threads
how do i drill a straight hole?
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camfer, sorry. doing a million things at once here
both the butt before pin install
and shaft after tapping threads
nah, thats too much troubleBrilliant!
All this time I thought you set up a drill press for all that.
razor blade
same for buttcap shaping :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
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Wow
Brent
You must feel pretty good!! Bob Dzuricky is always teaching us stuff here, but to teach Bob something is like WOW. But it shows this site at its best, accomplished cuemakers sharing information and other accomplished cuemakers willing to try something new.
That's how progress is made:smile:
Thanks again to all - this is a really informative and educational thread.
:smile:
Gary
Brent
You must feel pretty good!! Bob Dzuricky is always teaching us stuff here, but to teach Bob something is like WOW. But it shows this site at its best, accomplished cuemakers sharing information and other accomplished cuemakers willing to try something new.
That's how progress is made:smile:
Thanks again to all - this is a really informative and educational thread.
:smile:
Gary
bob's probably forgotten more than i'll ever know
every time i watch some of bob's videos,
i make a mental note to self> CLEAN UP THE SHOP
Hi,
I do too and use small short stub drills. Never tried the router trick. Sounds cool!.
Who would have thought a thread about drilling a hole would get over 2500 views. The devil is always in the detail.:grin-devilish:
Rick
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boredom??????
joey's viewed it 2400 time alone
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
serious now!!
i hope anyone that trys it, is careful
gibbs gotta be tight
just the router vibration can cause some movement
be careful!
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Yes, that works too but my whole point was about doing it all in one setup without removing the part OR losing my "0" setting.
FWIW, I always do that as my last operation on all internal threads rather than relying on the center drill. And I try to leave my compound set at 41° in case I have to cut a clean seat for a flat bottom weight bolt.
That said, this old dog is always looking for new tricks.
we will be anxiously awaiting the video :thumbup:
im not live threading as you are, using a tap, so i turn my toolpost out of the way until tapped
not quite as advanced i know, but works for me
At my work, I relieve the back of the cutters, so they only cut for the 1st 4mm or so. The rest of the cutter is ground back for the distance we want to go down the face or inside a hole. I normally relieve the diameter by about .010 inch/side or .25mm This is done on cutters from 4mm to 12mm
It prevents the back of the cuter picking up the swarf or over cutting, and use a step over or spiral feed rate of 2 to 3 mm a pass.This way we get a constant tool pressure and a consistent finish on the parts.
Live tooling is not always the answer but is very useful in alot of cases.
Some good oil is ooossing from this thread, not all of it is snake oil
I do, too, except with different thread.