How do you do a full splice cored cue ?
- Thread starter bbb
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While this method could be used, it could result in a misaligned hole in the middle of the cue.
I would suggest a 30" gun drill to core it out in one shot.
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I have long (42") gun drill and a short (14") gun drill and I use them both........... both ways work ok. Usually there is no problem with mis alignment in the middle
Kim
Coring the for arm
You guys are coring all the way through the forearm ?
You guys are coring all the way through the forearm ?
I was thinking the same Mike. If it's just an issue of weight, I can't imagine drilling all the way thru the cue would be necessary. It also seems to me, and I am by no means a cue maker that, that would defeat the purpose of the full splice. JMO. Would love to hear more about this.
j2
I core all the way thru. The main reason I core is for stability and consistency.
If not coring all the way through the forearm, how is the core installed? I guess it could be threaded in, sort of like just doing a long handle that extends farther into the forearm.
I don't know if I have ever seen that done.
I have seen plenty of straight dowel cored forearms with a handle installed, and I have seen fully cored butts. I have never seen a "partly" cored forearm that I can remember.
I have seen fully cored full splice butts.
Personally, I am impressed with the stepped and threaded Joss core. It is threaded for the joint collar on one end and the butt cap on the other end. In between it isn't a straight dowel but is stepped. The entire butt, including butt sleeve, handle, and forearm, is then sleeved over in between the butt cap and joint collar.
I am unaware if Dan Janes has used this construction on full splice cues. He has done full splice Titlist conversions, but I don't know if they were cored.
This is his core:
Some notes and additional pictures of the construction from the Joss blog: https://josscues.com/the-joss-way/cue-making-the-joss-way-today/
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Why not core the two pieces before making the splice?
Interesting question.
Wouldn't that mean the two pieces will have to be round before they are spliced?
You could core a square, couldn't you?
Round core in a square?
Not sure how awkward that might be or if there are any special problems.
Perhaps some more cue makers could comment.
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If not coring all the way through the forearm, how is the core installed? I guess it could be threaded in, sort of like just doing a long handle that extends farther into the forearm.
I don't know if I have ever seen that done.
I have seen plenty of straight dowel cored forearms with a handle installed, and I have seen fully cored butts. I have never seen a "partly" cored forearm that I can remember.
I have seen fully cored full splice butts.
Personally, I am impressed with the stepped and threaded Joss core. It is threaded for the joint collar on one end and the butt cap on the other end. In between it isn't a straight dowel but is stepped. The entire butt, including butt sleeve, handle, and forearm, is then sleeved over in between the butt cap and joint collar.
I am unaware if Dan Janes has used this construction on full splice cues. He has done full splice Titlist conversions, but I don't know if they were cored.
This is his core:
Some notes and additional pictures of the construction from the Joss blog: https://josscues.com/the-joss-way/cue-making-the-joss-way-today/
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Sorry Doc, I was having a minor bout with brain fade. For some reason, I was thinking of a wrapless full splice, more sneaky pete style. In that case, I would think that just partially coring the butt, might be necessary for weighting issues, depending on the woods used. But I see from some of the responses that there may be other reasons to core the whole cue. Always nice to know something that you didn't know before.
j2
Sure, I get it.
I was just wondering how it would be done. As I was saying kind of like putting a handle in. But it would be longer and extend farther into the butt.
In a full splice with an ebony back end it could be cored half way and the core threaded into the butt to a point somewhere in the middle. That would require some very deep threads. And some long glue relief channels. Without relief you could build up enough pressure to split the but as you screwed the core into a blind ended bore I would think. If that pressure is in the splice, as it would be in the proposed "half core", then i would suspect splitting it right at the splice would be a risk without careful pressure relief. This would be especially true is using an expanding adhesive.
I have in fact seen a fully threaded core. Don't remember who did that though.
I am thinking that just gluing in a partial core would be unsatisfactory, but a cue maker could certainly comment better on that.
All of what I am saying is just arm chair quarterbacking so any cue maker can feel free to slap me down. :smile:
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I think you're probably on the right track, if one were using an expandable adhesive. I would imagine that most of the "longer" setting adhesives that actually cure, probably tend to soak into, rather than expand into the wood. Probably still doesn't negate the need for glue relief.
j2
It's being done now by a popular blank maker.
I had an ebony bottom fs.
Saw it was cored at the bottom with flat lam maple.
Yes. You need to use a 4 jaw chuck, which is normally how you do any sort of precision machining anyhow. If the piece is square to start, it's almost as easy indicating a square part as it is a round one in a in a 4 jaw. They even make 4 jaw scroll chucks, but they always seemed more like practical jokes to me than anything else.
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