How do you guys clean your cues?
- Thread starter PETROBOY
- Start date
I use butcher's bowling alley wax. Apply the wax with a cloth, rub it thoroughly, and then rub out the excess wax with a clean part of the cloth. Amazingly the wax takes off some of the bluing and seals it at the same time
Oh yeah, I do this like once every 6 weeks.
Oh yeah, I do this like once every 6 weeks.
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Nothing but a damp paper towel for me...
This, and then burnish with a piece of leather and my shaft is smooth as glass....and doesn't take off wood.
Usually just a damp cloth, and on occassion some of Lee Pepper's shaft wax...
If you're going to use sandpaper, use a 1500 and above. This type of sandpaper can be found at any automotive store in the auto paint section...Advanced Auto Parts, O'Rielly's, etc...but I would limit its use to "every couple of months or so" and then wax and burnish the shafts afterwards.
I'm crazy about keeping my cues clean and wipe them down after every session...This keeps the shafts cleaner than normal and limits any damage from sanding and such...
Clint
If you're going to use sandpaper, use a 1500 and above. This type of sandpaper can be found at any automotive store in the auto paint section...Advanced Auto Parts, O'Rielly's, etc...but I would limit its use to "every couple of months or so" and then wax and burnish the shafts afterwards.
I'm crazy about keeping my cues clean and wipe them down after every session...This keeps the shafts cleaner than normal and limits any damage from sanding and such...
Clint
I have tried 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper and I didnt like it. I use 600 about once a month I have done this for along time and I have had this cue for 6 or 7 years and I havent seen any difference in my shaft and it gets nice and slick when im done with it.
Magic Eraser and Leather
I, too, use Magic Eraser. Nothing else (that I have found) removes nearly as much of the chalk bluing as Magic Eraser. I cut my Magic Eraser pads into smaller 'slices'. Each slice seems to be sufficient to clean one shaft. And, the remaining slices are clean so as not to carry dirt to the next shaft that I will clean.
I only do this a few times (maybe 3 or 4) times a year.
Dry immediately with paper towel. Then burnish with leather to restore the nice smooth finish on each shaft.
With regard to the gentleman that claimed that Magic Eraser dulls the polyurethane finish: I do NOT use Magic Eraser on anything but the bare wood portion of the shaft.
I, too, use Magic Eraser. Nothing else (that I have found) removes nearly as much of the chalk bluing as Magic Eraser. I cut my Magic Eraser pads into smaller 'slices'. Each slice seems to be sufficient to clean one shaft. And, the remaining slices are clean so as not to carry dirt to the next shaft that I will clean.
I only do this a few times (maybe 3 or 4) times a year.
Dry immediately with paper towel. Then burnish with leather to restore the nice smooth finish on each shaft.
With regard to the gentleman that claimed that Magic Eraser dulls the polyurethane finish: I do NOT use Magic Eraser on anything but the bare wood portion of the shaft.
Attachments
For years I treated my shafts with pure tung oil (no varnish or poly added). It's a pain in the ass to do, but very effective in protecting the cue. Once the finish hardens, it's slick as glass and highly resistant to dirt and chalk. I later found car wax plus polymers worked nearly as well and took 1/10 the time. I give it this treatment every 3 months or so.
Once it's treated with either method, a wipe with a damp cloth, followed by hard burnishing (a dry paper towel works fine) finishes it off.
More recently, I've been having my shafts treated with Mike Gulyassy's Shaft Freeze. This stuff is great. It lasts a long time (not sure how long, but it's two years on the first shaft I had done, with no sign of wearing off). It's crystal clear, keeps chalk from penetrating the wood's pores and it's slick. I'm very enthusiastic about this stuff.
Once it's treated with either method, a wipe with a damp cloth, followed by hard burnishing (a dry paper towel works fine) finishes it off.
More recently, I've been having my shafts treated with Mike Gulyassy's Shaft Freeze. This stuff is great. It lasts a long time (not sure how long, but it's two years on the first shaft I had done, with no sign of wearing off). It's crystal clear, keeps chalk from penetrating the wood's pores and it's slick. I'm very enthusiastic about this stuff.
I use Q-clean to clean the shaft. It is a bleach based powder that I sprinkle on a damp cloth and rub the cue with. It takes off all the oils and chalk on it. I then use a cue wax. I apply the cue wax with an old white t-shirt. I do the cue wax about once every 6 weeks and the q-clean as needed, usually like every 3 months.
There are probably a million ways to do it, so I would use whatever works for you.
There are probably a million ways to do it, so I would use whatever works for you.
If the shaft has any bluing I'll clean it with Magic Eraser and alcohol. Then smooth with micro-burnishing film. Then I'll apply two coats of Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax buffing well between coats. This should give you a better than new shaft. After every playing session, I'll wipe the cue down with a cloth or paper towel - this should keep it pretty clean. I'll give the shaft another coat of wax (just to keep it clean) about every two months or so. I'll also give the butt a coat of the wax at that time. I have a leather wrap on the butt which I treat with leather wax. When I had a Irish Linen wrap I'd put a piece of wax paper on the wrap and just twist. For me this system works great. You'll probably read at least a dozen ways to clean your cue, but the system I use is extremely gentle and will not remove any wood from the shaft. Good luck to you in your quest for the best way.
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If you want to clean the finish on the butt,this stuff is great. I use it every so often and if your finish is still good it will really shine after a cleaning with this.
http://www.formbys.com/products/buildup_remover.cfm
http://www.formbys.com/products/buildup_remover.cfm
I dont really understand why people dont like to use an abrasive on their cues and I mean a fine abrasive I have used this sandpaper for years its an autobody grade and my cues arent losing much size I just checked them they are out .03 mm, I have 2 shafts that I rotate and when I clean them I do all my shafts and they are both the same. I would never be able to tell that there was a difference by feel and that was over 7 years of cleaning once a month.