How Do You Jerk the Rock Back???
- Thread starter elvicash
- Start date
You have a good start on the draw shot there buddy. Just keep moving the cue ball back till you get same draw with CB two diamonds from the endrail (headstring).
Shooting the same shot I got about a table and a half draw, my setup OB on 1 diamond CB on 3 diamond.
I guess I need to work on my stroke. I think my issue is timing the wrist snap and tip distance through the CB.
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After reading most of the posts here, I find it amazing that there was only one post that eluded to what one does when they do a 'good' power draw.
Big Perm stated that you needed a smooth stroke.. Which is true.
I would go a step farther, and say a relaxed smooth stroke, with power.
If you tighten up your grip when you're doing power draw/follow etc, you rob your cue of the power you're attempting to get.
I assume you can draw already. Start increasing the power at which you are hitting the draw shot, but be mindful of how relaxed you are when you start hitting it harder. I often find people who are trying to get a lot of draw or follow on a shot tend to grip the cue tight when they stroke, and then can't figure out why things are not working for them.
Take this for what it is.. free advice. BTW... the only consistent grip is a relaxed grip. Stay smooth, stay relaxed, draw shots will start snapping back like magic in no time. It may even improve other parts of your game as well... who knows.
Oh.. and the last piece of advice. Get with an instructor if you're having stroke problems. They'll be able to narrow it down a whole lot faster than trying to figure it out on your own.
Good luck...
Big Perm stated that you needed a smooth stroke.. Which is true.
I would go a step farther, and say a relaxed smooth stroke, with power.
If you tighten up your grip when you're doing power draw/follow etc, you rob your cue of the power you're attempting to get.
I assume you can draw already. Start increasing the power at which you are hitting the draw shot, but be mindful of how relaxed you are when you start hitting it harder. I often find people who are trying to get a lot of draw or follow on a shot tend to grip the cue tight when they stroke, and then can't figure out why things are not working for them.
Take this for what it is.. free advice. BTW... the only consistent grip is a relaxed grip. Stay smooth, stay relaxed, draw shots will start snapping back like magic in no time. It may even improve other parts of your game as well... who knows.
Oh.. and the last piece of advice. Get with an instructor if you're having stroke problems. They'll be able to narrow it down a whole lot faster than trying to figure it out on your own.
Good luck...
No matter what you think you see, after the CB is stopped by the OB it accelerates backwards smoothly and continuously until it stops "peeling out" and starts rolling naturally. Then it decelerates smoothly and continuously until it stops (unless it hits something).
The way to get maximum draw is to hit the CB low. When you don't get much draw it's because your stroke is inaccurate and you hit the CB higher than you want to. Work on your stroke to make it more accurate and consistent. There's no secret, but a knowledgable player (preferably an instructor) to watch your stroke and tell you what you're doing wrong is very valuable.
pj
chgo
The way to get maximum draw is to hit the CB low. When you don't get much draw it's because your stroke is inaccurate and you hit the CB higher than you want to. Work on your stroke to make it more accurate and consistent. There's no secret, but a knowledgable player (preferably an instructor) to watch your stroke and tell you what you're doing wrong is very valuable.
pj
chgo
I think it is usually an optical illusion. You expect the cue ball to stop accelerating but then it keeps accelerating so it seems to be a second time.
But there are at least two ways that you could get the effect. The first is if the cue ball is bouncing. Then it will only accelerate when it's on the table, and it will be in jumps. The second is if the cloth or the ball is not uniform. Try ArmorAll on a 1-foot strip of cloth and draw across it. I don't think either of these happens very often.
The trick is to get a lot more draw on the ball. Hit it harder or lower or both.
You need to strike the cue ball very low, be sure your actually striking where you think you are by taking that last look at the cue ball before you push the cue through.
Keep your cue level.
Use a smooth stroke and Accelerate through the cue ball.
Do not over tighten your grip.
Proof that this works
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2fJ-3elVTc
Keep your cue level.
Use a smooth stroke and Accelerate through the cue ball.
Do not over tighten your grip.
Proof that this works
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2fJ-3elVTc
If you're interested in the physics of this, I suggest you read a proper scientific book on the subject as there are multiple things happening during billiard ball collisions on cloth.
If you just want more consistency and the ability to have longer draw, there is some good advice sprinkled throughout this thread. For me, hitting the ball smoothly and firmly *without* tension, flinching, squeezing, or jerking in any way. You want to be relaxed and quick, not tense and jerky.
Said another way, don't try to apply any "special sauce" to the cueball when you want more action. Just hit the ball smoothly and accurately.
If you just want more consistency and the ability to have longer draw, there is some good advice sprinkled throughout this thread. For me, hitting the ball smoothly and firmly *without* tension, flinching, squeezing, or jerking in any way. You want to be relaxed and quick, not tense and jerky.
Said another way, don't try to apply any "special sauce" to the cueball when you want more action. Just hit the ball smoothly and accurately.
Thanks, Mr. Jewett!
It took 25 posts for someone to finally explain what the original poster was seeing when he saw the cue ball accelerating two or three times. When talking about speed across the cloth after hitting the object ball it is very possible for the cue ball to jerk forward several times, generally because the ball is hopping. Each hop is a little lower and the cue ball is spinning a little slower. As a result the cue ball gets better traction on the table each time it lands. Better traction can indeed equal increased speed across the cloth.
Everyone that said that a smooth accurate stroke is more important than trying to get the cue ball to catch these "gears" is correct however, the more constant the contact between the cloth and cue ball the more predictable the shot is and the real issue is control. Look up some Buddy Hall videos on youtube, he does more with a cue ball with less effort than almost anyone.
Hu
It took 25 posts for someone to finally explain what the original poster was seeing when he saw the cue ball accelerating two or three times. When talking about speed across the cloth after hitting the object ball it is very possible for the cue ball to jerk forward several times, generally because the ball is hopping. Each hop is a little lower and the cue ball is spinning a little slower. As a result the cue ball gets better traction on the table each time it lands. Better traction can indeed equal increased speed across the cloth.
Everyone that said that a smooth accurate stroke is more important than trying to get the cue ball to catch these "gears" is correct however, the more constant the contact between the cloth and cue ball the more predictable the shot is and the real issue is control. Look up some Buddy Hall videos on youtube, he does more with a cue ball with less effort than almost anyone.
Hu
EASY answer, just hit the cueball low like this guy does 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWty...D3FF275D&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=40
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWty...D3FF275D&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=40
Good advice sprinkled throughout this thread thanks to all. Thanks for the Larry draw shot link I had seen that before, he is pretty strong to say the least, I have seen others draw from near end rail semi jacked up full length draw 2 tables+,
I want A speed 2 table draw 5 diamonds apart. My goal is to draw off an object ball near the side rail at the 1 diamond with the cue ball at head string, I want to have a stroke enough to to draw back to head rail and bounce off and back down to end rail. Currently drawing from the side pocket I get to headrail and boack to side pockets so I have some work ahead of me.
I will try to shoot 20 or so a day, I have a practice cue ball so I will start looking for the chalk mark for tip location. I think squeezing or tightening up my grip is part of my problem I have a quick snappy draw at near distances with medium speeds so I get good rotation while playing patterns.
I want A speed 2 table draw 5 diamonds apart. My goal is to draw off an object ball near the side rail at the 1 diamond with the cue ball at head string, I want to have a stroke enough to to draw back to head rail and bounce off and back down to end rail. Currently drawing from the side pocket I get to headrail and boack to side pockets so I have some work ahead of me.
I will try to shoot 20 or so a day, I have a practice cue ball so I will start looking for the chalk mark for tip location. I think squeezing or tightening up my grip is part of my problem I have a quick snappy draw at near distances with medium speeds so I get good rotation while playing patterns.
To Jerk the Rock.......... smooth straight stroke, nice follow through.
To Rock the Jerk........... hard punch, straight in the throat!!
To Rock the Jerk........... hard punch, straight in the throat!!
Dana...Wrist "snap" and followthrough distance have nothing to do with the speed of the draw. It's all in the quality of the swing. Revisit your video. We don't follow through anyway...we FINISH our stroke!
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Scott Thanks for this tip SPF to you buddy.
I think this is going to help some and believe this is the right thought, I swing my arm everything else is a result of that swinging motion.
After my prior post I shot a few more head string to diamond 1 draw shots and quit trying to emphasize things and just looked at my tip positon and and did my hand finish this helped alot, I draw this back to head rail. 5 diamonds out 7 back so that is at least a start, need to add in 8 more diamonds or so.
I think I will tie together with some MD 1's and some straight table to tip drills. I want to maintain my alignment when opening up the power.
Question Scott Would a bridge length change help on this at all if so longer or shorter, my current bridge is an inch or more longer than it was when you were here and I have moved back my grip hand on the cue a bit as well, I also went out a bit from my torso and try to get my back toe on line with CB path to the OB.
Thanks to all...
Dana...Bridge length will only affect the quality of your stroke if your grip position takes you out of perpendicular at contact. Otherwise, your finish position (followthrough length) remains the same. It is true, that the longer your bridge, the greater potential for missing where you're aiming by a few millimeters is. See you the next time I come through Indy! :grin:
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
My draw is significantly less than it should be because I do not hit the cue ball as low as I think I am.
How do I know - I used a practice cue ball with the blue circle and the black cross. After chalking up well, I aim with a very low draw stroke, I line up good, check alignment with cue stopped at address, top of tip is at bottom of blue circle, I slowly pull back pause and finish, hand and knuckles seem to finish well. Retrieve cue ball the blue chalk dot is half way between the blue circle and the cross.
This is very irritating I think when I start hitting the CB where I am aiming I will have plent of draw, I do not know if it is a bridge or elbow issue I expect it is in the elbow/stroke.
How do I know - I used a practice cue ball with the blue circle and the black cross. After chalking up well, I aim with a very low draw stroke, I line up good, check alignment with cue stopped at address, top of tip is at bottom of blue circle, I slowly pull back pause and finish, hand and knuckles seem to finish well. Retrieve cue ball the blue chalk dot is half way between the blue circle and the cross.
This is very irritating I think when I start hitting the CB where I am aiming I will have plent of draw, I do not know if it is a bridge or elbow issue I expect it is in the elbow/stroke.
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FYI, lots of good draw-shot technique advice can be found here:
As others have pointed out, the CB smoothly accelerates (and constantly speeds up) until the ball begins to roll. The acceleration can be delayed with CB hop. Here's a video demonstration of this effect:
Regards,
Dave
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Good backspin at short distances, but lacking draw at slightly longer distances, means not hitting the ball hard enough (not enough cue speed). Generating good cue speed is a matter of relaxing most of your muscles, and contracting your bicep very quickly. "Smooth", "relaxed", and other words people use to describe a good stroke really relate to whether your other muscles interfere with your bicep's ability to move your shooting hand from the back of the backswing through to the finish as rapidly as possible. You almost want to visualize your hand teleporting from the back of the backswing to the finish near the shoulder. Nothing counts but the quickness of this motion.
Once you're generating cue speed like a pro, you hope your fundamentals are sound enough that the cue still goes straight and that the tip still hits the spot on the CB you set up to hit. If so, you'll never have to worry about lacking draw power again. If not, then you need to put in more work getting everything straightened out.
-Andrew