How do you play this?

[Texas Prez]

I think the three rail could have worked but you're right, I would have to put some left on it to get it to come around. I feel better about what I did now that I hear all the suggestions. It seems it was just a good safe and a tough out no matter how I sliced it.

 

[Russ Chewning]

Russ, I like yur option, but he said the 2 rail doesn't work. That means the 1 has to be in the path that you have drawn, not where it is. I was thinking of going close to the corner back to the rail the cb starts on. But, that is assuming that the one is moved. I can't do that where he shows it now.

Mebbe. Three railers tend to be self correcting to a certain extent though, so if the one ball is in the way, one can change the first rail aiming line and adjust the spin according, even if it requires a slight masse. This three railer can be hit with a wide rangle of first rail contact points, depending on the spin.

The only problem is some of the aim lines require a lot more delicate speed control because of the masse involved.

Russ

 

[Deadon]

Can't see how you can completely loose the 2 rail shot. Hit the 10 directly or short on the last long rail. Still the same system. In fact I think its bigger if you hit around 2.5 on the long rail. That would be 3.5 or 5 on the short rail depending on which way you wanted to hit it. Pretty tough to have one ball cover all that territory. I think you passed up a better shot, JMHO.

 

[Deadon]

Mebbe. Three railers tend to be self correcting to a certain extent though, so if the one ball is in the way, one can change the first rail aiming line and adjust the spin according, even if it requires a slight masse. This three railer can be hit with a wide rangle of first rail contact points, depending on the spin.

The only problem is some of the aim lines require a lot more delicate speed control because of the masse involved.

Russ

And that would be my second choice also, even though your pushing the ball the wrong direction, its better to hit it than not.

 

[eyesjr]

try this...

I think upon further review you will see this is a higher percentage move and gives a higher percentage to win the game.....

Use the side rail as a third rail and hit that ball. EITHER SIDE OF THE BALL THAT YOU HIT will result in a safety, and EITHER SIDE OF THE BALL THAT you hit WILL SEND THE 10 TO A GOOD SPOT ON THE TABLE. iF you choose the 2-railer, the only good thing is if you make the ball. If it wobbles, the cue will stop, any player of decent speed will cut his ball in and have automatic "Up and Down" shapes on the 8. Remember, it is not about making the best shot, but it is about who chooses the correct shot more times than not. Youll know you played the correct shot when people begin to call you LUCKY!!!!!

With due respect to others that have posted in this thread, I had yet to read a complete solution until I read the post before mine by TJLMBKLR. A key component of the shot decision here is speed. First of all, I'm going with JoeyA's kick every time here, which is the best chance to win. Shape on the eight is guaranteed if the shot is made. However, if you just get up there and thoughtlessly hit the kick hard, if you miss, there's a good chance the cue ball will return uptable, endng your chances. So hit the kick on the soft side, to give yourself the extra chance to leave your opponent a long, tough leave if you miss. In a tough position like this, give yourself two ways to win.

 

[donny mills]

Okay so its TAP Nationals, your team is tied with matches won with your opponents and it comes down to a sudden death rack to advance your team to the finals.

So a high pressure situation in eight-ball, and you are trying to hit the ten-ball.

CueTable Help

What do you do???

And remember this is on a seven-foot table so the one takes up the straight two-rail kick.

I kinda like kicking 4 rails behind the 10. bigger target i think.

I dont know how to use the diagram but you would kick towards the one just like you were going 2 rails but instead play it longer and a little harder.

 

[donny mills]

I kinda like kicking 4 rails behind the 10. bigger target i think.

I dont know how to use the diagram but you would kick towards the one just like you were going 2 rails but instead play it longer and a little harder.

Actually the more i look at this im sure 4 rails is the shot and i might bet i make a good hit 9 out of ten... id def bet 8 out of ten.

 

[sjm]

I think upon further review you will see this is a higher percentage move and gives a higher percentage to win the game.....

Use the side rail as a third rail and hit that ball. EITHER SIDE OF THE BALL THAT YOU HIT will result in a safety, and EITHER SIDE OF THE BALL THAT you hit WILL SEND THE 10 TO A GOOD SPOT ON THE TABLE. iF you choose the 2-railer, the only good thing is if you make the ball. If it wobbles, the cue will stop, any player of decent speed will cut his ball in and have automatic "Up and Down" shapes on the 8. Remember, it is not about making the best shot, but it is about who chooses the correct shot more times than not. Youll know you played the correct shot when people begin to call you LUCKY!!!!!

That's a solid choice, too. I also like the four railer.

 

[sjm]

Thanks guys but as I mentioned before, the straight two rail kick wasn't there, this was my first choice as well, but because the one was in the way it could not be kicked at from the right side of the one. It was a seven-foot table and the one is in the way. Cuetable can only give a idea of what the shot was.

So let me put it this way:
If the two rail kick off the back rail was not there what would you play?

The two railer is easily there iif the layout is the one you diagrammed -- it's not even close to being unavailable. If you diagrammed the shot wrong, why not just correct the diagram?

 

[Black-Balled]

Nobody is supposed to win from there.

 

[mosconiac]

As drawn, the 2-rail kick looks on. Little Joe's kicking system is perfect for this situation. It looks to me like you want to kick 1.5 diamonds up from the corner pocket to cut the ball in. Little Joe's system provides a simple adjustment so this kick is a pretty reliable choice. You will be kicking around the center diamond on the first rail so the 1-ball is not in your way.

CueTable Help

 

[okinawa77]

Pick a spot on the rail

You've got some options, but all would require the use of english.

CueTable Help

I think Russ's 3 rail kick is the best option....due to the potential safety/hook that you can leave your opponent.

 

[rcarson]

Honestly I think the 'right' shot is either a 4 or 3 rail kick. Both of these kicks can have two similiar outcomes. The main thing for me would be to get the 10 ball down to the head rail and leave the cue ball on the foot rail in a position where he has a cut that he doesn't have to like shooting. He may try a safe and the only good safe spot would be behind the eight, but he won't be able to put it on the easy side from the one ball if the 10 is near the head rail (near the one). Also you could block one of the pockets depending on the rail you hit, a 3 railing would block the left pocket and a 4 railing could block the right (as if standing faceing the foot rail from the head rail). At TAP nationals they usually play on 7' Diamonds and the rails are pretty sporty and accurate. So you will have a higher precentage playing a kick safe 4 railer then a two or one rail 'gotta make the ball else I sell out' shot.

 

[donny mills]

Why does everyone keep talking about the 2 railer with a tiny ball to hit. LOOK AT THE 4 RAILER... YOU CANT MISS IT.

 

[donny mills]

You've got some options, but all would require the use of english.

CueTable Help

I think Russ's 3 rail kick is the best option....due to the potential safety/hook that you can leave your opponent.

Ummm.. this guys 4 rail line is not right.

 

[tjlmbklr]

You've got some options, but all would require the use of english.

CueTable Help

I think Russ's 3 rail kick is the best option....due to the potential safety/hook that you can leave your opponent.

LOL! :grin:

 

[tjlmbklr]

Why does everyone keep talking about the 2 railer with a tiny ball to hit. LOOK AT THE 4 RAILER... YOU CANT MISS IT.

To go off of my earlier post about the 2 rail kick option from the Monk series. They also cover the 4 railer as well. But if you speak of what I am thinking then you are coming behind the 10 ball. With less of and option of making it. And to top it off the CB's natural direction then it back towards the 1ball.

Provided the picture is accurate the hit is aiming for the 1 1/2 diamond (starting form top right corner) which it just clearing the 1ball full tip of running english just above center with enough speed to drive the 10ball to a rail to avoid a foul.

 

[okinawa77]

Ummm.. this guys 4 rail line is not right.

Extreme left english....low percentage of success..unless you play a lot of 3 cushion....but 3C balls and table play different.

In any case, this is a tough situation. My track lines may not be perfect, but the point is...there are a lot of spots on the rail that you can target to get to the 10 ball, and all require some degree of english.

If the CB will go pass the left side of the 1B, there is a 5 or 6 rail kick...but it's very difficult....if not impossible....depends on the playing conditions.

I'm not implying that I can get out in this situation. It just takes a little bit of the pressure off, when you can see all the different ways you can get to the 10B.

 

[shinigami]

I would go would a 2 rail shot...hit it pretty soft. Going 3 or 4 cushions here will give you a greater chance at selling out because you will have to hit it harder than a 2 rail to ensure that you don't scratch by not hitting a rail after contact with the object ball. If you go 3 or 4 rails and actually make contact, you still have a good chance of leaving the opponent an easy shot if you hit the OB thin on either side.

 

[daylate$short]

I would go would a 2 rail shot...hit it pretty soft. Going 3 or 4 cushions here will give you a greater chance at selling out because you will have to hit it harder than a 2 rail to ensure that you don't scratch by not hitting a rail after contact with the object ball. If you go 3 or 4 rails and actually make contact, you still have a good chance of leaving the opponent an easy shot if you hit the OB thin on either side.

I agree....3 or 4 rails you're coming off the cushion at the 10, and must get CB or 10 to a rail after the hit....that requires quite a bit of speed still on the CB after all those rails. Maybe you hit just right on the 10 and go to the rail, then you're cool, but hit square on the 10, and you need some speed to get it to a rail; hit it thin, and you just continue up table giving your opponent a lot better opportunity to make his shot.