How do you trim your IVORY?????

thegloworm

Banned
I was wondering, how do you trim your ivory?

I ask because I have a dilemma.
I got a new ivory ferrule put on at a local pro shop.
They did not trim the ferrule down to 1".
They left it at like 1.25 or whatever a Meucci length ferrule is.

I would like to have the excess ivory trimmed off the ferrule so it is 1" and looks like the other shaft I have for the same cue.

The harmonics of the cue have changed too. I used to have the nice PLINK when I shot. Now it is more of a PLUNK than a PLINK.

Do you just put the shaft on a lathe and trim it bit by bit?
Do you have to wait between cuts?

Any information you provide is appreciated.
 
thegloworm said:
I was wondering, how do you trim your ivory?

I ask because I have a dilemma.
I got a new ivory ferrule put on at a local pro shop.
They did not trim the ferrule down to 1".
They left it at like 1.25 or whatever a Meucci length ferrule is.

I would like to have the excess ivory trimmed off the ferrule so it is 1" and looks like the other shaft I have for the same cue.

The harmonics of the cue have changed too. I used to have the nice PLINK when I shot. Now it is more of a PLUNK than a PLINK.

Do you just put the shaft on a lathe and trim it bit by bit?
Do you have to wait between cuts?

Any information you provide is appreciated.

Take it back to the pro shop-they will have to put on a new tip as well. You should not have to absorb the cost. Good luck
If they don't help you please post the name of the shop so others can avoid this happening to them. If they do fix it let us know so those of us who travel will have a place to go if we are out of town. Thanks
 
jasonlaus said:
Take it back to the pro shop-they will have to put on a new tip as well. You should not have to absorb the cost. Good luck
If they don't help you please post the name of the shop so others can avoid this happening to them. If they do fix it let us know so those of us who travel will have a place to go if we are out of town. Thanks
Would it be out of line for the Shop to charge him for the job? It is mainly the customer's responsibility to get what he wants...

I think there should be a discount involved if he is charged, if it was my lathe, I'd likely do it for free to keep a customer, but I don't think it would be completely out of line to charge for further work.

What are we talking about anyway? $20?

Edit: Having read the OP...The job can be completed in little more time that a tip change.
 
If this were me in this situation. I would go back to where I got the ferrule replaced. If i told the person before exactly what length I wanted the ferrule and it was not what I asked, I would ask them to please fix it and if it cost extra (which it shouldnt) I would gladly pay the difference. If he fixed it for no charge, I would offer him 5.00 or 10.00 for his time. That way, you build a great relationship with the person fixing your cue.

If he was a jerk and said it was my fault for not telling him how long to make the ferrule and I would have to absorb the full cost of ferrule, tip and time. Then I would just let him do it, then after I had my repaired shaft in hand, I would let him know my dissatisfaction and tell him I will let all my friends know to avoid that particular place.


Thats just me though, not saying its right or wrong...
 
Black-Balled said:
Would it be out of line for the Shop to charge him for the job? It is mainly the customer's responsibility to get what he wants...

I think there should be a discount involved if he is charged, if it was my lathe, I'd likely do it for free to keep a customer, but I don't think it would be completely out of line to charge for further work.

What are we talking about anyway? $20?

Edit: Having read the OP...The job can be completed in little more time that a tip change.

If he specified what he wanted there should be no charge. In my opinion the pro shop should have asked him how long he wanted the ferrule(same as it was, longer,or whatever) alot of players wouldn't even know to mention this, they say put a new ferrule on and expect it to be the same size.
A pro shop should know that a longer or shorter ferrule would make the cue play differently, also looks kind of stupid if you were going to sell the cue.
IMHO the pro shop should have put a ferrule on the same size as the one they took off and there should be no charge period.
 
It can be turned right down to size, no waiting between cuts. Your cue maker will probably do it at no charge, unless there is a Moori tip involved . . . You will probably never have the same PLINK that you had before, especially if that was with a different ferrule material. If you have a shaft that is hitting just like you like it, DON'T CHANGE ANYTHING. Even the tip if you can help it. Changing tips and ferrules definitely changes the hit of your cue.

By the way, we have an "ask the cue maker" section for these types of questions, where professionals are glad to answer your questions.
Mr H
 
thegloworm said:
I was wondering, how do you trim your ivory?

I ask because I have a dilemma.
I got a new ivory ferrule put on at a local pro shop.
They did not trim the ferrule down to 1".
They left it at like 1.25 or whatever a Meucci length ferrule is.

I would like to have the excess ivory trimmed off the ferrule so it is 1" and looks like the other shaft I have for the same cue.

The harmonics of the cue have changed too. I used to have the nice PLINK when I shot. Now it is more of a PLUNK than a PLINK.

Do you just put the shaft on a lathe and trim it bit by bit?
Do you have to wait between cuts?

Any information you provide is appreciated.

never mind!!!!!
 
Last edited:
no-sho said:
never mind!!!!!
What is w/ the back-pedal? I didn't think you were wrong about anything other than the ferrule was prob a replacement/ there was no 'other shaft'...:confused:
 
thegloworm said:
I was wondering, how do you trim your ivory?



Do you just put the shaft on a lathe and trim it bit by bit?

Do you have to wait between cuts?
There isn't a special way to trim ivory ferrules other than you should use a sharp cutting tool for clean cuts. You don't have to wait between cuts.

Your tip will have to be removed, obviously, and the ferrule cut down to 1" and then a new tip installed. It's not a big deal other than you will lose the tip that's own your cue now.

James
 
If your original ferrule was 1.25" and you are cutting it down to 1" this will shorten your cue 1/4". If he solid capped the ferrule it could make the ferrule weaker by cutting off the solid cap. The normal way of doing things is to replace a ferrule with the same length as the original. A Ivory ferrule will not play anything like a Meucci ferrule. Shortening it will not make it have the same sound tone that it had with a Meucci ferrule. My advice would be to leave it alone at this point.
 
You see...

The original post left too many questions unanswered. Let's kick his ass!

And- he says, "Playing Cues: Very Early Scruggs, 95 Mottey, Schon LTD 1015, Gilbert Jump/Break". Who the F is qualified to work on one of those cues that puts a longer ferrule on than the one that the cue came to him with??
 
Last edited:
The original ferrule, the one that cracked, was a 1" ferrule. When they put the new ferrule on, they left it as a full size ferrule, not 1" like the original ferrule on the shaft. I do not want a Meucci length ferrule. I would like to have it trimmed down to 1" like the original ferrule was.

The tip that is used is one that I supplied to them. Therefore, I will also be out another tip.
 
After rereading your original post I'd be asking for a whole new shaft. He borked it when he did that as no one wants long ferrules generally. I at first thought you already had a 1.25 inch ferrule.
 
?????

Is your shaft the same length with th 1.25" ferrule??? If so the shaft was shortened by.25":mad: go back and demand replacement shaft!!!
..... If it is .25" longer then all is good...
 
I would take the shaft back if possible. Assuming they drilled and tapped it at a standard 3/4 in deep it should still leave a 1/4 inch cap on the ferrule which should be strong enough. The sound difference could be cause by going from a harder material ferrule to ivory, the pad or a bad glue up.
 
You should take this back to the installer who put the ivory ferrule on. Most ivory ferrules are made from scratch by the installer. There are not to many pre-made sources out there, like other ferrule materials.

What this means, is that only the installer will know how much solid ivory material he left between the tip and the end of the shaft tenon (the wood section inside the ferrule)

The amount of material left here is important for determining if your ferrule can simply be cut to your desired length of 1 inch, now that the job is complete.

If the installer says its not a good idea, then the only recourse at that point is a new ferrule, designed to be 1 inch finished length.

Anytime I install a new ferrule, the first thing I do is measure the length of the broken one. Most all customers just want their cue to be the same when they get it back. 1 inch ferrule are the absolute standard in the industry. I'm surprised someone would put a longer one on, unless specifically asked.
 
thegloworm said:
The original ferrule, the one that cracked, was a 1" ferrule. When they put the new ferrule on, they left it as a full size ferrule, not 1" like the original ferrule on the shaft. I do not want a Meucci length ferrule. I would like to have it trimmed down to 1" like the original ferrule was.

The tip that is used is one that I supplied to them. Therefore, I will also be out another tip.
Hi Mike,
With that much material on the ferrule, you can part ofthe tip, trim the ferrule and with care ,put the tip back on.
Just use a sharp parting tool.
Neil Lickfold
 
best answer

iusedtoberich said:
You should take this back to the installer who put the ivory ferrule on. Most ivory ferrules are made from scratch by the installer. There are not to many pre-made sources out there, like other ferrule materials.

What this means, is that only the installer will know how much solid ivory material he left between the tip and the end of the shaft tenon (the wood section inside the ferrule) . . .



In my opinion this is the best answer. Nobody but the man that put the ferule on knows if it can simply be cut down or needs replacing. I'm not sure that he was a good choice to do the work to begin with but if he says it is a simple trim down I would let him do it. If he says the ferule must be replaced I'd consider taking it elsewhere.

I have to say that the sound is going to change anytime you change tips and ferules. A new tip and an old tip sound different. The sound changes so gradually over time that a player doesn't usually notice the change from new to old tip sounds but the instant change when you put a new tip on is very noticeable. I agree with the person that said ferule and pad change the sound of the hit, and the hit, too. If the old ferule wasn't ivory you probably didn't have a pad between it and the tip. There should be a pad there now, an unavoidable change. It isn't realistic to change tips and ferules and expect it to sound the same. It may be close but there are never any guarantees about sound.

Rereading the thread starter, I have a few questions: Was the original ferule ivory? Did it have a pad under the tip? While I am asking, does the new tip have a pad under it?

Hu
 
Did the shaft have the broken ferrule with it when you brought it in? Just thinking that if it did not, he may have put a longer ferrule because Meucci's come with a 1.25" ferrule.
 
Back
Top