how long do you wait to put finish on???

T

Trent

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how long do you wait after your final cut on a cue do you wait to do the final sand and apply the finish to a cue???

thanks in advance.
 
As soon as possible. The longer you let a piece of wood lay around, with out being sealed, the more chance you run that it will either absorb moisture or dry out (depending on the weather)...JER
 
thats what ive been doing as soon as i do my final pass ive been sanding it then applying the finish first thing, everything else in cue building is so slow i just figured i was rushing it lol
 
Right after I sand and seal . I use Auto Chrome and I wait after I spray it a couple of weeks to wet sand and buff out as it helps it to stay more brilliant and shiny . It seems to cure out harder too . You can tell when wet sanding .:cool:
 
Same here, as soon as possible after the sanding. to avoid absorbing moisture because on that state the pores of the wood are open and prone for absortion..
 
on average how long does it take to finish a cue after the final sand???
 
The short answer is, a week to a month depending on the CM and the finish he's using.
 
ace911 said:
on average how long does it take to finish a cue after the final sand???
Click to expand...

Hi,

After sanding the bare cue 2 hours over 5 to 6 days. Total work time to finish after final wet sand of the clear coat is about 15 minutes over a 2 day period in my procedures.

I put 4 coats of epoxy on in 15 minutes, then wait 2 day and flat sand to 600. Then apply 4 coats of Dupont Omni or 3 coats of their Concept clear coat in a 65 to 80 degree environment waiting 10 minutes between coats. I wait 2 to 3 days to do a 5 step wet sand and hand buff between centers using Wizzards 3 step products and VIVA paper towels. Wet sanding takes about 5 minutes. Hand buffing takes about 10 minutes.

2 days later I use a Mensurna Polishing compound bar on a 12" polishing wheel made of soft donet flannel spinning at 1800 rpm. I polish the cue vertically on the front side of the wheel. I don't do the cut polish position on top of the wheel. This machine polishing procedure takes 1 minute.

If I still have the cue in my possession after 30 day I will wax the finish.

The Mensurna polishing bar is the "very fine" tan bar and I get it from grizzley. If you get a buffing machine don't buy the 3600 rpm unit as it is too fast. An 1800 rmp unit works great with the 12" buffing wheels and you don't have to worry about burning the finish if you polish vertically on the front side of the wheel.

Machines and buffing pads can be got here: http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/baldor.html Don't buy their polishing bars as they are for metal and will leave a matt finish. Buy the good German Mensurna from Grizzley.

After I am done polishing I put of some of Cue Component's finial buff product. Amazing stuff!!

IMHO, I am convinced that the buffing machine gives you the best finish job possible. It is very important that before you use one of these units that your finish process produces cues with absolutely no micro scratches at all. If there are scratches visible, this high polishing method will make you see them better because of optics and light refraction. To get the high luster and wet look that this produces, all scratches must be gone first with the hand / lathe method. I am also convinced that by applying 1 extra coat of clear ( than is recommended by the company ) gives your cue a little more surface tension structure and helps to prevent shrinkage big time. This has been my experience.

Rick Geschrey
 
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On some cues I sand and seal right away. On other cues with woods that change color when exposed to air and light like cocobolo and purple heart, I hang them in the light for a few days to let the rich color come back into them before finishing.
 
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