Dhakala said:
You bore me david
How long is your bridge?
- Thread starter CantEverWin
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You bore me david
Dhakala said:
Really, you don't say
Sorry, I should've said, I normally pivot on the last stroke, but I am trying the aim then pivot before the last stroke method. Depending on the shot, some shots work better with a longer bridge length while pivotting.
My Predator has a Pivot Point of about 12" if I remember correctly
My Predator has a Pivot Point of about 12" if I remember correctly
Jay
Jay, I can only too well hear your voice as those words jumped out at me. Do you remember the guy that used to play in Reno that would almost before every shot, wave his hand in a rotation over the ball to help it in, is this the same Dude?
jay helfert said:
Jay, I can only too well hear your voice as those words jumped out at me. Do you remember the guy that used to play in Reno that would almost before every shot, wave his hand in a rotation over the ball to help it in, is this the same Dude?
not sure if this has anything to do with the topic, but seems it might be interesting. I found this information and some other wild and crazy stuff on this website.http://www.waynesthisandthat.com/billiards.htm#tune
here is the info for those not interested in the site: What Tune is Your Cue Playing? NEW!!!
This seemed like a good idea in concept... oh well, you can't win them all.
Everything has a natural frequency at which it wants to vibrate. In the case of pool cues the frequency is audible and can be heard by lightly holding the cue hang vertically tip down with two fingers and tapping the cue. Let the butt slowly slip between your fingers until the vibrations are the loudest and you can hear its natural tone or pitch.
It's at its loudest when you're holding it at one of the minimum nodes of vibration. At this point, like the rest spots on a xylophone, your hand doesn't interfere with the vibrations traveling up and down the cue. Move your fingers further up or down from this point and the vibrations die out more quickly because your fingers are now located at a point where the cue is physically moving and your hand is dampening the vibrations.
My idea was that this might be one way to characterize a cue. Cues with high pitched tones might feel more lively than low-pitched cues... or perhaps the other way around. The problem is that while each of my cues has a slightly different pitch they are all so close that differentiation isn't possible, at least to my tin ears. My daughter thinks my playing Meucci sounds like it's resonating a D and the breaking Meucci a G.
Still, it's an interesting exercise.
here is the info for those not interested in the site: What Tune is Your Cue Playing? NEW!!!
This seemed like a good idea in concept... oh well, you can't win them all.
Everything has a natural frequency at which it wants to vibrate. In the case of pool cues the frequency is audible and can be heard by lightly holding the cue hang vertically tip down with two fingers and tapping the cue. Let the butt slowly slip between your fingers until the vibrations are the loudest and you can hear its natural tone or pitch.
It's at its loudest when you're holding it at one of the minimum nodes of vibration. At this point, like the rest spots on a xylophone, your hand doesn't interfere with the vibrations traveling up and down the cue. Move your fingers further up or down from this point and the vibrations die out more quickly because your fingers are now located at a point where the cue is physically moving and your hand is dampening the vibrations.
My idea was that this might be one way to characterize a cue. Cues with high pitched tones might feel more lively than low-pitched cues... or perhaps the other way around. The problem is that while each of my cues has a slightly different pitch they are all so close that differentiation isn't possible, at least to my tin ears. My daughter thinks my playing Meucci sounds like it's resonating a D and the breaking Meucci a G.
Still, it's an interesting exercise.
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I"m not sure what's going on with you Dave, but it seems you're getting caught up in these posts in a funny way.Dhakala said:
What I was pointing at is that he didn't say he used backhand english on every shot. This is a thread on low squirt shafts, so he's saying he uses backhand english, and that he uses it on the last stroke rather than the more conventional BHE of pivoting before warm-up strokes.
Fred
Island Drive said:
They must be related. They come from the same Universe.
When I brought this thread back from the place that threads go to die I didn't realize it had so much life left in it. I guess when it completely changes subject it breathes new air into it's lungs.ribdoner said:This thread was about "length of bridge".....I think.
Here is an article on bridge length by an Advanced certified BCA instructor named Roger Long.
http://www.christianpoolplayers.com/bridgetofar.html
That(above) article seems to make sense to me.
The game of nine ball some say requires longer bridges to accomodate those nessecary power shots.Buddy Hall with his short bridge and great follow through didn't seem to have a problem being one of the best nine ball players ever.
I would think if you can stroke them straight with a longer bridge,more power to you,however, the majority of us amatuers that post here would probably do better with an 8" bridge.
Last week I shortened up to this length after playing many years with a 12-14" bridge.I can do much better on those straight stroke tests,however, I haven't used this bridge length long enough to see an improvement yet in my overall game.
RJ
http://www.christianpoolplayers.com/bridgetofar.html
That(above) article seems to make sense to me.
The game of nine ball some say requires longer bridges to accomodate those nessecary power shots.Buddy Hall with his short bridge and great follow through didn't seem to have a problem being one of the best nine ball players ever.
I would think if you can stroke them straight with a longer bridge,more power to you,however, the majority of us amatuers that post here would probably do better with an 8" bridge.
Last week I shortened up to this length after playing many years with a 12-14" bridge.I can do much better on those straight stroke tests,however, I haven't used this bridge length long enough to see an improvement yet in my overall game.
RJ
Nice Post TATE. I like a medium bridgelength, but I'm starting to see that a lot of pros, with a medium Bridge length, are doing as you say, employing a shorter stroke. They are NOT using all that for their stroke length.
Your ideas are right on...., maybe no one will pay attention
Good Luck
Your ideas are right on...., maybe no one will pay attention
Good Luck
On topic:
Differant bridge lenghts--
Follow...longer bridge
Draw...medium for moderate draw and a little shorter for power draw
Inside english...shorter
Outside english (finesse)...longer
Hop shots...short
Stun shots...longer than short but shorter tham medium
Kill whitey close to rail....longer bridge w/inside english
Slide then roll shot....longer bridge w/punch stroke
Pocket long(er) difficult object ball....long, OPEN bridge w/short stroke
Don't know why this works for me...it just does. Don't know if it will work for anyone else....it might be worth a try
SHORT---4 to 7 in
MED----8 to 10 in
LONG---11+ in
Differant bridge lenghts--
Follow...longer bridge
Draw...medium for moderate draw and a little shorter for power draw
Inside english...shorter
Outside english (finesse)...longer
Hop shots...short
Stun shots...longer than short but shorter tham medium
Kill whitey close to rail....longer bridge w/inside english
Slide then roll shot....longer bridge w/punch stroke
Pocket long(er) difficult object ball....long, OPEN bridge w/short stroke
Don't know why this works for me...it just does. Don't know if it will work for anyone else....it might be worth a try
SHORT---4 to 7 in
MED----8 to 10 in
LONG---11+ in
Island Drive said:
No. That was the Ju-Ju school of pool, which is a psychological discipline only. Its focus is on developing one's self-confidence and belief system, whether they be based in reality or not. It is "self-talk," to use a Western pop-psychology phrase.
Zen Cueism focuses on developing one's realization of Oneness with the Universe through actions. If one does not act, but only thinks, then one is not part of the Universe which is constantly acting.
"Zen without realization of the body is empty speculation," said Omori Sogen Rotaishi, kyudo master. He meant exactly what Minnesota Fats meant: "If ya think about it, yer never gonna do it."
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Cornerman said:
Well, naturally, Fred! A lot posts made here are either funny-haha or funny-strange.
All I'm doing is what everyone else does: answering questions about pool from my own reference frame. Various readers deem that reference frame funny-strange, funny-haha, and/or useful. I reciprocate according to the opinion expressed.
What's "funny" about that way of partipcating in these posts?
Laser2507 has clarified his meaning, as my questions intended. He was talking about pivoting about the pivot point of his cue, a subject that is relevant to this thread's topic but distinct from it. I'm glad he brought it up!
How much does your cue's pivot point influence your bridge length, Fred? What other factors take priority over pivot point under what circumstances?
RJ,recoveryjones said:
I've thought about this a bit and I'm not sure that the shorter bridge length is more reliable for players without a nice smooth straight stroke.
Certainly a player with a bad stroke is more likely to hit the CB further from his aim with a long bridge than with a short one, but that error is compensated for in a couple of ways.
I know when I am forced to bridge short, such as when near a rail, that if I don't stroke very accurately then I can unintentionally change the line of shot significantly.
The two mechanisms are:
1. On a longish bridge, say 14", hitting the CB 1mm to the side, requires a change in the direction of the cue of say X degrees. With a 7" bridge length, the same 1mm offset changes the angle of the cue by 2X degrees.
2. Also, due to the squirt effect, it turns out that most shots with decent cues, played with a bridge length around 14" will travel very close to the original line of aim, even when some unintended sidespin is applied. This tends to reduce the error significantly I find.
Possibly the greatest advantage of a shorter bridge is that it allows more consistant striking for height, such as draw, stun back, stun through etc type shots. But there is also the matter of positional speed judgement, which tends to be easier with a longer stroke.
Just some thoughts / observations.
Colin