How to change the ferrule
- Thread starter WesleyW
- Start date
Friction heat it until the glue melts.
Put new one in.
Put new one in.
Most of the time
Yes, this normally works. With the exception of some of the cheaper production cues. I've had occasions where the cheap plastic ferrule will melt before the glue bond releases. Then it's like pulling bubble gum out of your hair
Yes, this normally works. With the exception of some of the cheaper production cues. I've had occasions where the cheap plastic ferrule will melt before the glue bond releases. Then it's like pulling bubble gum out of your hair
dave sutton
Banned
ive seen joe blackburn literally melt them off with a torch. scared the sh1t outa me
> I've done it sucessfully several times with phenolic/melamine ferrules using a Wagner heat gun on the 1500w setting. I've also had ferrules melt on me,but those were on Players and other imports. You want just enough heat to break the glue bond,but not enough the ferrule wants to change shape when you use plier to unscrew it. You also want to be careful you don't clamp down too hard and damage or twist the tenon. Tommy D.
dave sutton
Banned
i just cut them off until i get near the thread then it usually peels off. some may say i do it wrong but i have good success and i havent ruined a tenon yet
mep gas, pipe wrench-tailgate and 24voltdrill
they can be changed with a 30-06 at 100 yrds. After practicing I thought of looking more closely at the different materials. was interesting, gave insight . If I told ya how we'd have to kill ya- just kiddn- all ferrules glued and screwed- I'd change -combination of pilot,and (slip on)with threads. kamui tip mark
they can be changed with a 30-06 at 100 yrds. After practicing I thought of looking more closely at the different materials. was interesting, gave insight . If I told ya how we'd have to kill ya- just kiddn- all ferrules glued and screwed- I'd change -combination of pilot,and (slip on)with threads. kamui tip mark
WheatCues
Banned
info. you requested regarding your question
IN MY PROFESSIONAL OPINION:
I personally make gradual passes on the bad ferrule with my cutting tool on my lather until it flakes off then I make one last tiny pass to clean everything and true the tenon up...
Next is the most important regarding maintaining orginial playability and hit:
I mic. the tenon and drill out my new ferrule to the respected tenon size and then glue it on... some ferrules are capped and some or sleeved it all depends on who made your cue, I would never recommend changing the original configuration unless you want to modify the hit of it....
The process is quite easy and relatively simple for experienced cuesmiths and usually takes about 10-15 minutes start to finish including the tip application as well...
The ferrule is installed oversized and once it's secure passes must be made to reduce it down to the existing diameter of the shaft and then finished up with sandpaper....
I invite customers to watch the process as well as the other repair and cuemaking processes too, this way they have a direct understanding of what it all entails... so just ask your local cuesmith if you can watch him do the job !
I hope this actually answers your question !!!
Sincerely, Eddie Wheat - East Coast Cue Repair 321-631-1827
WesleyW said:
IN MY PROFESSIONAL OPINION:
I personally make gradual passes on the bad ferrule with my cutting tool on my lather until it flakes off then I make one last tiny pass to clean everything and true the tenon up...
Next is the most important regarding maintaining orginial playability and hit:
I mic. the tenon and drill out my new ferrule to the respected tenon size and then glue it on... some ferrules are capped and some or sleeved it all depends on who made your cue, I would never recommend changing the original configuration unless you want to modify the hit of it....
The process is quite easy and relatively simple for experienced cuesmiths and usually takes about 10-15 minutes start to finish including the tip application as well...
The ferrule is installed oversized and once it's secure passes must be made to reduce it down to the existing diameter of the shaft and then finished up with sandpaper....
I invite customers to watch the process as well as the other repair and cuemaking processes too, this way they have a direct understanding of what it all entails... so just ask your local cuesmith if you can watch him do the job !
I hope this actually answers your question !!!
Sincerely, Eddie Wheat - East Coast Cue Repair 321-631-1827
it is hard to sand the ferrule to match the wood.it is just easier for me to get them perfectly flush that way.i am still new at this and i seem to get a meeting you can fell with your fingers unless i sand the wood to match the ferrule.it wouldn't really be enough to change the diameter,maybe even .05mm.
WheatCues
Banned
masonh said:
IN MY PROFESSIONAL OPINION:
To correct the problem you are currently having with reducing the existing diameter of the shaft when installing a new ferrule, you should try this:
On your final pass to flush the ferrule w/ the shaft, stop at about .0005 from the end right before it meets the wood... this will give you a lip, so when you finish up sanding the ferrule and cleaning up the shaft as well, this will knock off the lip and then you will end up with a flush fit...
If you still are having a problem after using this method then I suggest not applying too much pressure with the sanding paper or staying in one spot more than a second...
Another option is the wetsanding method when finishing up the ferrule.. this may help quite a bit because the water swells the wood up and this can make all the difference when there's a ridge between the ferrule and shaftwood !
Just thought this might help you !
Sincerely, Eddie Wheat
shaft roundness
I give the customer my opinion and a price and let them choose. No point refinishing a whole shaft and still have an unhappy customer, or just doing a little when they wanted the whole shaft refinished.Some choose to have the ferrule round and cut just to the wood, with the ferrule being the same as the average diameter. There are places where it is over and under.
Neil
The biggest problem is shafts that are not round.The best you can do is average out the error. Either buy using a collet or adjustable chuck. But the problem is dealing with an out of round shaft. They can be easily .1 mm or more in a lobed shape. Some of the best cues are still, .03 mm out of round. This could be the natural movement of the wood or the way it was finished and sanded.The next decision is how much work are you going to do to put it right ?. Just correct for an inch or so , or do you end up refinishing the whole shaft ?.WheatCues said:
I give the customer my opinion and a price and let them choose. No point refinishing a whole shaft and still have an unhappy customer, or just doing a little when they wanted the whole shaft refinished.Some choose to have the ferrule round and cut just to the wood, with the ferrule being the same as the average diameter. There are places where it is over and under.
Neil
WheatCues
Banned
conetip said:
It had always been second nature to me to adjust the shaft and or collet in the spindle until It's perfectly true... I never even considered the imperfection aspect of it, only because there is always seems to be a variance and you just have to tweak it until it's perect !!!
I wouldn't even consider working on anything with my lathe including shafts and cues unless it spun perfect before addressing it....
Sincerely, Eddie Wheat