How to clean a shaft..my way!

S

Secaucus Fats

Banned
Any experienced pool player knows that nothing affects your shot for the worse more than a nasty, sticky cue shaft. And if you sight in line with the ferrule, a clean ferrule makes things easier on the eyes

I have a Cue Companion lathe and I do repairs on the side here and there.
Currently I have a Joss cue that is in for a tip and a cleaning. I will post pictures of the cue before and after.

The accumulation of chalk, dead skin, sweat, oils, condiments, dirt, snot, whatever, penetrates into the pores of the wood and then forms a sticky coating on the shaft. The only way to prevent this is to:


[1]Wash your hands frequently or, carry a small bottle of hand sanitizer and a small towel to clean them.
[2]Remove all chalk from the tip. DO NOT GRIND THE TIP INTO THE RUG! Use a napkin or piece of paper towel..
[3]Wipe the cue down completely with a soft terry cloth.
[4]Burnish the shaft quickly with a slicker.
[5]Place the whole thing in a clean pool case.

OK, so you have let your shaft get so bad that it is filthy. What now?

Here's how I clean, reseal, wax, and burnish a shaft. The method produces a smooth as glass, clean, sealed, and waxed shaft that you can be proud of.

I start with a slightly damp Mr. Clean Magic sponge I clean the ferrule, sides of the tip, and all non-finished portions of the shaft. After I am satisfied with the results. I wipe down and dry the shaft with paper towel (Bounty or the like). The Magic Eraser alone usually suffices, but in extreme cases, I use a dab of Soft Scrub w/ bleach on a terry rag to remove any remaining persistent chalk or other discoloration. When I use Soft Scrub I make sure I remove any residue by wiping the shaft down with a damp cloth and drying it quickly with paper towel.

I then wipe down the shaft with 0000 steel wool dampened with mineral spirits. (Mineral Spirits will remove any residual wax, shellac, etc.. and it prepares the wood for sealing.) DO NOT GET MINERAL SPIRITS ON THE FERRULE OR ANY FINISHED or PLASTIC PARTS OF A CUE / SHAFT!

Depending on the overall condition of the grain I usually start with either 600 or 800 3M wet dry at highest speed on the Cue Companion. Next I wipe the shaft to remove any dust, then hit it with 1000 at high speed, wipe again, hit it with 1200 and wipe down and burnish with a leather slicker. Next I apply sanding sealer to the shaft with wadded paper towel as it spins. The sealer dries fairly quickly (5 – 10 minutes.)

Ok the sealer is dry, I spin the shaft up full speed, buff with a rag, and then hit it with 1500 3M (this does not remove the sealer it simply smooths and burnishes. Next, I apply a coat of Cue Doctor wax, let it dry to a haze, and buff it to a high gloss. Lastly I burnish again with a slicker and I put a little touch of Kiwi liquid shoe polish on a Q-tip going round the edge of the tip then burnish it so it shines and looks new.

I'll have pics up tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
I use a method very similar to yours. About the only difference is that I use the bowling alley wax. My shafts are like glass when I get through.

Maniac
 
I would agree with all that you've said Fats, except for the Soft Scrub.
I always kept a little plastic squeeze bottle on the shelf over the lathe filled with Soft-Scrub, but it wasn't for use on the shaft. It was for the ferrules.
To clean the ferrule I would apply a dot of Soft-Scrub, turn on the lathe, then wipe with a paper towel. Apply a dab of high-quality spit, to rinse, and then wipe again. Ferrules never looked so good.
Using the Soft-Srub on shaft wood, however, is not good because of chlorine's harmful effects on the wood fiber.
 
hdgis1 said:
Do you use shellac, lacquer, or oil based sanding sealer?

Chris
Click to expand...

Currently I'm using shellac based.. Zinsser "Bull's Eye" Seal Coat. I have also used lacquer based Unique Products Shaft Sealer. Both work fine.

I have never used oil based, and I don't know of any of any other cue repair guy around here who uses it.
 
If you want to save yourself some money, try using shellac flakes instead of the canned stuff. The canned stuff has about a six month shelf life and unless you are doing a hell of a lot of shafts, in the end you are probably using bad shellac. By that, I mean it never cures properly.

Most common way to buy flakes is in 1LB increments. You want to use what is called a 1/2LB cut. A 1LB cut is 1LB of shellac to one gallon of solvent (woodcraft sells a water free solvent that is the nuts or you can use denatured alcohol or some cheap high octane stuff from your local liquor store!). For a 1/2LB you go 1/2LB shellac to 1 gallon solvent. You can do the conversion for smaller amounts.

Though I am not a cuemaker, I am a furniture maker, I can say that shellac is a very soft finish which provides little protection. You may try an oil based varnish (not polyurethane) thinned down a lot as it is much more durable. It will buff and wax just like shellac.

Chris


It w
Secaucus Fats said:
Currently I'm using shellac based.. Zinsser "Bull's Eye" Seal Coat. I have also used lacquer based Unique Products Shaft Sealer. Both work fine.

I have never used oil based, and I don't know of any of any other cue repair guy around here who uses it.
Click to expand...
 
I'm curious if anyone here has used 3M Micro Mesh papers. I recently tried them on my shaft and the results are great so far. It was a lot of work but it would have been a lot easier if I had a lathe though. I started with some 600 grit and then went to 800. After that I started with the Micro Mesh papers and went though all the grits from 1,500 to 12,000. The shine on the shaft was outstanding. Since I did that I have only used a Mr Clean Magic Eraser to clean with.

I just started this with a brand new shaft I got a few weeks ago, but after several sessions the shaft still looks new after just using the eraser. My hope is that the effect of burnishing with up to 12,000 grit paper will have sealed the wood so well that it will be long time before I need to treat the shaft again with the same process.

I never liked the idea of using any kind of liquid on the wood since that will raise the grain, which requires sanding to correct. Nor have I cared much for waxes, as they need to be stripped off occasionaly then reapplied. That's just too much darn work ;)
 
Burnishing and sealing are not the same thing. Burnished wood still has open pores while the pores in sealed wood are closed.

As for using liquids, not all of them raise the grain. Most things like denatured alcohol or mineral spirits have no water and a flash point to quick for moisture to penetrate fibers. To prove this to yourself, take a piece of un-sanded cabinet plywood and brush a part with water and a part denatured alcohol.

Chris
 
Why no cleaning of tip on carpet?

Secaucus, I frequently shoot on tables that have different colored cloths and chalk and always clean my tip on the carpet before leaving my room so I don't ruin others chalk. Why is this bad???
 
OneinaRow said:
Secaucus, I frequently shoot on tables that have different colored cloths and chalk and always clean my tip on the carpet before leaving my room so I don't ruin others chalk. Why is this bad???
Click to expand...

Knowing Fats, I'lll answer that:

It's not your carpet to ruin.

Jeff Livingston
 
That micro mesh is some key stuff for getting super quality results during finishing and polishing steel joints, ivory ferrules, antler, or anything else that is polishable. You need a lathe to get maximum results.

When it comes to shafts for me, I personally like the feel of hand oil, dirt, and chalk rubbed in over the course of many years. That natural burnishing effect creates a nice feel that is irreplaceable.

All you really need to clean your shaft is to bring back that same paper towel you used to dry off your hands with after washing your hands in the bathroom.

Congratulations to the OP for finding a method that works for you.

jridpath said:
I'm curious if anyone here has used 3M Micro Mesh papers. I recently tried them on my shaft and the results are great so far. It was a lot of work but it would have been a lot easier if I had a lathe though. I started with some 600 grit and then went to 800. After that I started with the Micro Mesh papers and went though all the grits from 1,500 to 12,000. The shine on the shaft was outstanding. Since I did that I have only used a Mr Clean Magic Eraser to clean with.

I just started this with a brand new shaft I got a few weeks ago, but after several sessions the shaft still looks new after just using the eraser. My hope is that the effect of burnishing with up to 12,000 grit paper will have sealed the wood so well that it will be long time before I need to treat the shaft again with the same process.

I never liked the idea of using any kind of liquid on the wood since that will raise the grain, which requires sanding to correct. Nor have I cared much for waxes, as they need to be stripped off occasionaly then reapplied. That's just too much darn work ;)
Click to expand...
 
SK Custom Cues said:
That micro mesh is some key stuff for getting super quality results during finishing and polishing steel joints, ivory ferrules, antler, or anything else that is polishable. You need a lathe to get maximum results.

When it comes to shafts for me, I personally like the feel of hand oil, dirt, and chalk rubbed in over the course of many years. That natural burnishing effect creates a nice feel that is irreplaceable.

All you really need to clean your shaft is to bring back that same paper towel you used to dry off your hands with after washing your hands in the bathroom.

Congratulations to the OP for finding a method that works for you.
Click to expand...

You are correct, the shaft comes clean easily enough, even with a dry cloth towel. The ferule on the other hand needed a little something extra to keep it looking new, hence using the eraser. That makes it white again within just a few seconds. As you said, a having a lathe would produce the best results and probably put a really nice polish on the ferule that could just be wiped clean.

Last night I noticed that the nice burnishing I had put on the shaft is starting to go away after a few weeks of use now. I was hoping that it would have a longer lasting effect, but I guess I was wrong on that. I do however like the way it feels after going through all the steps of the micro mesh papers. I got a super nice shiny polish on the wood without having to buy any chemicals or compounds. I'll just have to touch it up more often than I was hoping too. (If only I had one of those darn lathe contraptions it would be so easy :frown:)

As for the "years of use" burnishing technique, I do agree that the feel of a well worn shaft is nice, but I have a habit of being a clean freak. According to my wife, it's one of the many annoying traits that I have ;)
 
all I know is that magic erasers use bleach as their cleaning ingredient. This is fine for the ferule, but will damage the wood over time. fyi.
 
Back in the 80's I'd watch Pete Trujillo clean his Szam & Bushka shafts with Ajax. At the time I thought that if he was doing that to his cue's then it was ok. Now not so much.
 
tryhonesty07 said:
all I know is that magic erasers use bleach as their cleaning ingredient. This is fine for the ferule, but will damage the wood over time. fyi.
Click to expand...

It's a common misconception that Magic Erasers contain bleach. The original Magic Eraser doesn't. It cleans by the structure of the wet melamine foam - it cleans with glass-like fibers on a microscopic level.

The reason why they don't recommend Magic Eraser on finished woood is because the abrasive qualities may scratch the finish of polished woods.

Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is roughly the equivalent of 1500 grit sandpaper. It cleans dirt at the cellular level, so it will remove deeply ground in chalk and dirt that very fine sandpapers won't remove.

Chris
 
I just hit the shaft with straight 320 grit until the dirt comes off.

Just kidding. Seems like anyone would love to have you clean a shaft for them. Sanding sealer is a must and love it myself.

And the Kiwi polish on the tip is something new to me and will certainly try it. I bet it works just as good or better than the bottled tip burnishing liquids that one can buy for a gazillion bucks.

Thanks for the tip and I guess you can learn something new everyday.
 
Secaucus Fats said:
Any experienced pool player knows that nothing affects your shot for the worse more than a nasty, sticky cue shaft. And if you sight in line with the ferrule, a clean ferrule makes things easier on the eyes

I have a Cue Companion lathe and I do repairs on the side here and there.
Currently I have a Joss cue that is in for a tip and a cleaning. I will post pictures of the cue before and after.

The accumulation of chalk, dead skin, sweat, oils, condiments, dirt, snot, whatever, penetrates into the pores of the wood and then forms a sticky coating on the shaft. The only way to prevent this is to:


[1]Wash your hands frequently or, carry a small bottle of hand sanitizer and a small towel to clean them.
[2]Remove all chalk from the tip. DO NOT GRIND THE TIP INTO THE RUG! Use a napkin or piece of paper towel..
[3]Wipe the cue down completely with a soft terry cloth.
[4]Burnish the shaft quickly with a slicker.
[5]Place the whole thing in a clean pool case.

OK, so you have let your shaft get so bad that it is filthy. What now?

Here's how I clean, reseal, wax, and burnish a shaft. The method produces a smooth as glass, clean, sealed, and waxed shaft that you can be proud of.

I start with a slightly damp Mr. Clean Magic sponge I clean the ferrule, sides of the tip, and all non-finished portions of the shaft. After I am satisfied with the results. I wipe down and dry the shaft with paper towel (Bounty or the like). The Magic Eraser alone usually suffices, but in extreme cases, I use a dab of Soft Scrub w/ bleach on a terry rag to remove any remaining persistent chalk or other discoloration. When I use Soft Scrub I make sure I remove any residue by wiping the shaft down with a damp cloth and drying it quickly with paper towel.

I then wipe down the shaft with 0000 steel wool dampened with mineral spirits. (Mineral Spirits will remove any residual wax, shellac, etc.. and it prepares the wood for sealing.) DO NOT GET MINERAL SPIRITS ON THE FERRULE OR ANY FINISHED or PLASTIC PARTS OF A CUE / SHAFT!

Depending on the overall condition of the grain I usually start with either 600 or 800 3M wet dry at highest speed on the Cue Companion. Next I wipe the shaft to remove any dust, then hit it with 1000 at high speed, wipe again, hit it with 1200 and wipe down and burnish with a leather slicker. Next I apply sanding sealer to the shaft with wadded paper towel as it spins. The sealer dries fairly quickly (5 – 10 minutes.)

Ok the sealer is dry, I spin the shaft up full speed, buff with a rag, and then hit it with 1500 3M (this does not remove the sealer it simply smooths and burnishes. Next, I apply a coat of Cue Doctor wax, let it dry to a haze, and buff it to a high gloss. Lastly I burnish again with a slicker and I put a little touch of Kiwi liquid shoe polish on a Q-tip going round the edge of the tip then burnish it so it shines and looks new.

I'll have pics up tomorrow.
Click to expand...

why do people take the chalk off the tip when your done playing?
 
I am in the camp that thinks you should never clean your shaft. I used to clean mine religiously. I cleaned them, sealed them, burnished them, and had them quite beautiful.

However as time went by I found that the best playing cues I picked up had dark shafts which had never been "cleaned". Jerry Franklin once reported said that you shouldn't sand on the shaft either, just rub some facial oil on it once in a while.

I try to not use any sandpaper on my shafts except when absolutely needed. The key to a smooth shaft is to keep your hands clean, use powder if you must or a glove.

I think a shaft that has a lot of "play" on it feels better. It gets naturally burnished and sealed through play. Nothing better than the natural oils you secrete rubbing against the wood shot after shot. Your hands don't secrete oil but all us touch our face constantly which is how oil gets on our fingers and subsequently on the shafts.

Lastly I am also in the minority (probably the only one) who thinks that the Magic Eraser is the worst thing you can do to a pool cue. I hate them. I think that they scratch up the cue and ferrule and really don't do anything better than other methods.

Anyway I am not the only one who feels this way about not cleaning shafts. At least one big time cue maker who was a former road player has told me the same thing and he gives Bob Meucci credit for making people think that a shaft "should" be white and clean. He said that prior to Bob making a big deal about his "white" shafts no one cared and shafts would get seasoned and stay straight through the natural process of use.

However I used to also make a decent amount of money at tournaments cleaning shafts so I understand it from the other side too. I had a whole regimen and my array of secret sauces and when I was done it looked better than new. People do like to see a nice clean shaft that's super slick.
 
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