how to do refinishing?

[chiatlard]

Hi all
i've just bought a mini lathe recently and also have quite a few bashed up cheap cues that i want to mess around with,so i was thinking of refinishing them.

i've tried Ronseal's Ultra Tough Hardglaze
(Tough Polyurethane gloss varnish for interior wood)
but it feels kinda sticky even after drying it for 1-2 days.

Am i using the correct type of finishing?
and may i know how do you all go about applying it?

Thanks in advance! :grin:
Gerald

 

[plshrk22]

I am by no means a cue builder but I believe most use an automotive clear coat after sanding off all the old clear. Im not sure what kind of gun or compressor you would need to spray it but I wouldnt think it would have to be that big. Possibly some harbor freight stuff. Im sure some one else will chime in.

 

[BLACKHEARTCUES]

Most Qmakers today use a 2 or 3 part urathane enamal ( automotive clear coat ),that's sprayed on. I use the Chromaclear made by Dupont...JER
P.S. these finishes are very hazardous.

 

[Kimball]

Basic refinishing options
1. Superglue / epoxy - several layers of product are applied to the cue while it is spinning.
2. Auto clear coat - sprayed on in coats, this appears to be the most popular
3. Water based products - I have seen two recommended on this forum, just can't remember the names.
4. UV - sprayed on and then hardened with UV light - expensive, but, excellent results
5. others - MinWax, etc - cheap, easy to apply, but, they yellow.

Best way to get an education in finishing cues? Go to each page on this forum and have your browser search for the word finish. You will find 20 to 30 threads dealing with different finishing techniques.

 

[chiatlard]

Thanks for the help guys!
much appreciated

Most Qmakers today use a 2 or 3 part urathane enamal ( automotive clear coat ),that's sprayed on. I use the Chromaclear made by Dupont...JER
P.S. these finishes are very hazardous.

but Jer, what do u mean by these finishes are very hazardous?
as in the automotive clear coat? or the one you use?

Basic refinishing options
1. Superglue / epoxy - several layers of product are applied to the cue while it is spinning.
2. Auto clear coat - sprayed on in coats, this appears to be the most popular
3. Water based products - I have seen two recommended on this forum, just can't remember the names.
4. UV - sprayed on and then hardened with UV light - expensive, but, excellent results
5. others - MinWax, etc - cheap, easy to apply, but, they yellow.

Best way to get an education in finishing cues? Go to each page on this forum and have your browser search for the word finish. You will find 20 to 30 threads dealing with different finishing techniques.

hey kimball, thanks for letting me know on the different types of finishes available, will go search up the threads..:wink:

 

[brianna187]

You Mentioned 3 Part ????? I Was Wondering What That Was I Never Heard Of 3 Part Thanks

 

[Michael Webb]

You Mentioned 3 Part ????? I Was Wondering What That Was I Never Heard Of 3 Part Thanks

Solid, Hardener, reducer.
Other additives available, Fish eye remover, flex for bumpers, and so on,
The less you know, the more they like to sell you. hmmmm!

 

[cuemaker03]

Save yourself the trouble and let a cuemaker do it.

 

[olsonsview]

hazards of clearcoat

and any of the modern multi part finishes are real! A painter is supposed to wear a complete body suit and remote fed air supply when even mixing this material. It can be absorbed into the skin readily, let alone though the eyes , mouth, or wounds in the skin. I used to paint cars and have a definite respect for these new clearcoats. I would not want to use them even with a good exhaust fan. I would hate for a neighbor to say: "Whew, does that stuff you are spraying stink!", Then hear he got some weird cancer years later, and i wonder if it was me??? The only way I would use it would be with a scrubber attached to my exhaust to avoid any civilian casualty. A proper spray booth is not possible for most cuemakers. Though many take chances with theirs and others health. Just my opinion.

 

[BHQ]

Thanks for the help guys!
much appreciated


but Jer, what do u mean by these finishes are very hazardous?
as in the automotive clear coat? or the one you use?



hey kimball, thanks for letting me know on the different types of finishes available, will go search up the threads..:wink:

but Jer, what do u mean by these finishes are very hazardous?
as in the automotive clear coat? or the one you use?
good rule of thumb: if it stinks, it's not good for you

 

[Cue Crazy]

Solid, Hardener, reducer.
Other additives available, Fish eye remover, flex for bumpers, and so on,
The less you know, the more they like to sell you. hmmmm!

No dought. I don't know if there was some mistake, but I almost passed a brick when they quoted me locally for the name brand fish eye remover. I decided I would take My chances without.

 

[WheatCues]

Hi all
i've just bought a mini lathe recently and also have quite a few bashed up cheap cues that i want to mess around with,so i was thinking of refinishing them.

i've tried Ronseal's Ultra Tough Hardglaze
(Tough Polyurethane gloss varnish for interior wood)
but it feels kinda sticky even after drying it for 1-2 days.

Am i using the correct type of finishing?
and may i know how do you all go about applying it?

Thanks in advance! :grin:
Gerald

Clearcoats is one of the toughest ordeals you will ever go through as far as getting a good system down pat... every cuemaker I know has always struggled to achieve exceptional results and once you do, you stay with it, this aspect in my opinion is the toughest part of cuemaking !

I personally believe that the surface preperation and the polishing paste is the key elements in getting great results !

This is my procedure....

* I use and automotive urethane 4:1 mix.
* Apply sanding sealer as needed prior to spraying clear.
* Surface should be atleast 320g equivalency to insure a good bond with clearcoat.
* Westsand with 400g in between sessions...
* Final wetsand use 1500g to remove ALL imperfections.
* Finesse-it II high speed polishing paste applied with white paper towel and buffed out with a clean one !

I would be more than happy to walk you through it or answer any of your questions you may have... I know how frustrating this particular process can be and don't mind saving you weeks upon weeks of aggravation....

Just give me a call anytime !



Sincerely, Eddie Wheat 321-631-1827

 

[WheatCues]

No dought. I don't know if there was some mistake, but I almost passed a brick when they quoted me locally for the name brand fish eye remover. I decided I would take My chances without.

The only time I ever had to use fish-eye remover was when I first started spraying clearcoats in my early days... and I found out that it was only a problem when I used a reducer that was required with that particular clearcoat system... once I went to a 2-part 4:1 mix clearcoat system like NASON that eliminated the fish-eye problem for me instantaneously !!!

Just thought I'd share that with you !




- Eddie Wheat

 

[powerlineman80]

but Jer, what do u mean by these finishes are very hazardous?
as in the automotive clear coat? or the one you use?

Any automotive paint or clear coat is hazardous to breath in and you need to wear some type of respirator. Of course you could spray without a mask (not no dust mask) and the crap will stick to your lungs like cig smoke. I got a cousin that painted on the side and he coughs up different colors of paint from the years of painting without a respirator and little to no adequite (sp?) ventilation. My brother paints cars for a living and owns a body shop and I've worked around it enough to find out how strong it can be. I think thats what he meant about hazardous.

 

[manwon]

Hi all
i've just bought a mini lathe recently and also have quite a few bashed up cheap cues that i want to mess around with,so i was thinking of refinishing them.

i've tried Ronseal's Ultra Tough Hardglaze
(Tough Polyurethane gloss varnish for interior wood)
but it feels kinda sticky even after drying it for 1-2 days.

Am i using the correct type of finishing?
and may i know how do you all go about applying it?

Thanks in advance! :grin:
Gerald

If you want to experiment I would suggest Super Glue, it is no more or less toxic than the others and you do not need any special equipment to apply it.

Check the links below:

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=58735&highlight=super+Glue+finish

Check post 51 below:

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=58735&page=4&highlight=super+Glue+finish

Take care

 

[billyjack]

Chiatlard,
You got some great replies on the pro finishes, so now I'll throw a few amateur jobs at you. The attached pics are of some Dufferins that I use for house cues, bar cues, break cues etc. Messing with these satisfies my tinkering urges, but keeps me from screwing up my "good" cues. Some things are better left to the pros. The ebony splice at top was done with Dupont Penetrating Oil Varnish. It's a wipe on deal, with long drying times between coats, but gives a "warm' look to the wood that just fits this style of cue IMO. The others were done with Deft gloss lacquer in a spray can, available at any hardware store. Nice gloss, not nearly as durable as catalyzed auto clears, and takes a good 6-8 coats (sanded between each coat) to get a decent film thickness. Both are easily repairable, much less hazardous to the lungs, and dirt cheap. If you're looking just to fool around with some junk cues, give it a try.
Also, if any CM's catch this post, can anyone identify the wood that Dufferin used in their two piece cues? Looking at the grain, it kinda reminds me of Morado, but I'm no expert. Considering Dufferin's market plan I'm sure it was the cheapest dark wood they could find. I'd appreciate a reply just to satisfy my own curiosity. Thanks in advance.

Bill