I agree that moving the 10 ball will most likely hurt Mr. solids WORSE!!
How would you play this?
- Thread starter Duffman
- Start date
I agree that moving the 10 ball will most likely hurt Mr. solids WORSE!!
WOW!!! WOWWWWWWWWWW!!
Oh...my god.
I'll be back later.
But before i leave, to any decent player, making the 10 = losing the game.
One
Two
Three...
What's not been mentioned, and it would mean everything in how I would begin making a decision is this...
These diagrams can make it very hard to convey nuances. The 2 & 3 rail kicks both have to executed jacked up over a ball to quite some extent, and the 3 railer begins with the cue ball quite close to the rail. Both of these conditions make the kicks "unnatural" as Grady termed it to me frequently. You just can't expect a "normal" track as a result when elevated that way.
Not that I might not kick that way here even elevated. This is ugly. I'd have to be at the table to judge for myself.
Laying the 15 against the 5 gives a good player a chance to shoot the 15/5 combo & freeze you up on/near your 4 with no shot & both stripes in play. Make the 10, and the tight safe on the back of the 15 may leave you with still no 1 rail open & the 15 pulled off the rail to ease the shot down the rail or soften the stop bank.
If you must take a foul, it might be more productive to freeze the 15 against 4, with the two balls aiming at approx the 1st diamond on the end rail.
These diagrams can make it very hard to convey nuances. The 2 & 3 rail kicks both have to executed jacked up over a ball to quite some extent, and the 3 railer begins with the cue ball quite close to the rail. Both of these conditions make the kicks "unnatural" as Grady termed it to me frequently. You just can't expect a "normal" track as a result when elevated that way.
Not that I might not kick that way here even elevated. This is ugly. I'd have to be at the table to judge for myself.
Laying the 15 against the 5 gives a good player a chance to shoot the 15/5 combo & freeze you up on/near your 4 with no shot & both stripes in play. Make the 10, and the tight safe on the back of the 15 may leave you with still no 1 rail open & the 15 pulled off the rail to ease the shot down the rail or soften the stop bank.
If you must take a foul, it might be more productive to freeze the 15 against 4, with the two balls aiming at approx the 1st diamond on the end rail.
He said IF HE HAD STRIPES....so if the shooter (who has solids) MOVES the 10 ball - then the stripes guy has BIH and can do WAY too many things with the 10 ball to hurt Mr. solids.....
I played it out afew times doing different things, the 3 rail kick hitting under the 4 is the shot.
That said on shooting it on a 9-foot gold crown I was aiming much farther from the corner pocket and using right hand siding to change the angle that the cueball comes in. I made it the first shot, hit under the 4, froze to the 7, and the 4 hit the rail after nudging the 15.
The only thing you want to avoid is giving stripes ball in hand to a decent player who then plays a combo on the 15/5 with bottom, calling the 15. This will make the 5, possibly have the 15 follow through and in, at worst the 15 will jaw and block the pocket, and the 4 will be nudged to the head rail not too far from the pocket. Solids is then in alot of trouble, a player can even safe off a shot like that behind the 8 so that the solids are now kicking at their recently nudged 4 ball with a sell out 15 hanging in the pocket and blocking the pot on the kick.
Playing the 10 in and giving ball in hand you are dead if the player knows enough to play that shot at that point. You better pray he takes the shortside shape and tries to make the 15 bridging over the 5, at least then you have a chance. If he lines up the 15-5 combo and calls the 15 you are now deceased.
That said on shooting it on a 9-foot gold crown I was aiming much farther from the corner pocket and using right hand siding to change the angle that the cueball comes in. I made it the first shot, hit under the 4, froze to the 7, and the 4 hit the rail after nudging the 15.
The only thing you want to avoid is giving stripes ball in hand to a decent player who then plays a combo on the 15/5 with bottom, calling the 15. This will make the 5, possibly have the 15 follow through and in, at worst the 15 will jaw and block the pocket, and the 4 will be nudged to the head rail not too far from the pocket. Solids is then in alot of trouble, a player can even safe off a shot like that behind the 8 so that the solids are now kicking at their recently nudged 4 ball with a sell out 15 hanging in the pocket and blocking the pot on the kick.
Playing the 10 in and giving ball in hand you are dead if the player knows enough to play that shot at that point. You better pray he takes the shortside shape and tries to make the 15 bridging over the 5, at least then you have a chance. If he lines up the 15-5 combo and calls the 15 you are now deceased.
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This without a doubt minus making the 10.
Why are you trying to make a legal hit for? What exactly is he going to do with that 15 ball? Run it all the way down while at the same time stopping just behind the other stripe and THEN stopping that perfectly for the 8 all the way down??
He can have bih.
I agree, going 3 rails with effective speed? What if you hit it hard enough to clear your solids out of the way. At the moment, solids have the pocket blocked and a person could easily change that with a wrongly sped 3 rail kick.
Hell, forget hitting your balls, what if you miss your balls completely and clear his out of the way... and now he has ball in hand on top of it.
I'll take the foul.
Its nothing but a lag speed shot for the kick...i rather take the opportunity to get myself BIH on a simple kick than give an opponent a chance at getting out with BIH.
I for one like my chances of getting out with BIH with the 10 being shot anywhere so long as it doesn't block the path of the 15 into the corner. If the 15 isn't blocked I'm getting out more often than not and I'll get the 8 away from the block hole no problems.....thats why I take the kick
Let's hope one of those 3 rails you're about to hit isn't slightly dead :frown:
There's two comfort zones here and i'm not in the same boat with you.
Maybe if this is something I did on a fairly routine basis I would go with that route. But, you're shooting from the far corner, to the other corner and coming back to that corner.. I just don't like the variables there. It's a lot of distance and unless I had been playing on that very table for the last few years and knew it like the back of my hand, I just couldn't feel comfortable doing that.
That said I think I would take my chances and run the 10 2 rails to the adjacent side almost parallel to the 15. If you can run the 15 all the way down ( assuming this is a 9 foot diamond? ) and get all the way to the other side, then run the 10 down.. I tip my hat.
However, i'll also take into account how my opponent has been shooting. If he hasn't really missed a ball and is making them with ease, i'd probably roll the 15 up against either of the solids as has been said.
But I just don't see two long straight shots going in and also getting behind the 8 ball ( assuming you're not banking it ) to run it also all the way down. Lots of CB movement on long rail shots.
There's two comfort zones here and i'm not in the same boat with you.
Maybe if this is something I did on a fairly routine basis I would go with that route. But, you're shooting from the far corner, to the other corner and coming back to that corner.. I just don't like the variables there. It's a lot of distance and unless I had been playing on that very table for the last few years and knew it like the back of my hand, I just couldn't feel comfortable doing that.
That said I think I would take my chances and run the 10 2 rails to the adjacent side almost parallel to the 15. If you can run the 15 all the way down ( assuming this is a 9 foot diamond? ) and get all the way to the other side, then run the 10 down.. I tip my hat.
However, i'll also take into account how my opponent has been shooting. If he hasn't really missed a ball and is making them with ease, i'd probably roll the 15 up against either of the solids as has been said.
But I just don't see two long straight shots going in and also getting behind the 8 ball ( assuming you're not banking it ) to run it also all the way down. Lots of CB movement on long rail shots.
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Pretty big assumption on STRIPES next shot with ball in hand - he could try the 15 - following the 5 in....he could push the 10 ball WHEREEVER he wants now (and leave you nastier than you are in the initial shot)...he could call safe, pocket the 10, and leave the cue ball REALLY bad.
Doing anything with the 10 as an intentional foul is giving the opponent WAY too many options with his hands on the cueball!!
If 5 is frozen, you pray you hit the 4 ball.
Truth is you're a day late and a dollar short.
JoeyA
Bank the 8 in between the 15 and 5. Live to shoot again.
This is another option.
http://CueTable.com/P/?@1DXgy1EbKI1...cVLC1caDQ1cbqW1eWQn1ebhB1kabY1kWYN3kayh3kHpg@[/
You're still a day late and a dollar short. Shouldn't be in this predicament in the first place.
JoeyA
http://CueTable.com/P/?@1DXgy1EbKI1...cVLC1caDQ1cbqW1eWQn1ebhB1kabY1kWYN3kayh3kHpg@[/
You're still a day late and a dollar short. Shouldn't be in this predicament in the first place.
JoeyA
The apostles have spoken. The answer is evident.
My paypal address is www.iowncuetable.com/ujarredthemoney
My paypal address is www.iowncuetable.com/ujarredthemoney
I was saying in his situation, ghost wanting to run out. I don't know how much worse it could get anyway though since you brang it up
if i am stripes i am hoping for you to move either of my balls and give up BIH, the first choice should be 3 rail kick safe, 2nd option if you are going to give intentional foul would be to park the 8 between the 15 and 4/5 ball. these are of course JMHO.
Mike
Mike
I might try something like this... it gives you another shot and even if they play another safe the kicking would probably be easier than the 3 rail kick safe...
You know, i would really like to ask a question of everyone that has responded in this thread.
How many people actually know the system i am talking about?
Cause, i literally have played pool once in the past 3 weeks for about 2 hours, but after some of the responses in this thread, i grabbed my cue and i headed over to the pool room to check out this shot.
So, i set it up once and tried to feel it with no system and wiffed.
Then i set it up again, and i counted my diamonds for the 4 ball, found the corresponding number on the top rail, did my parallel line, hit it at about 2oclock on the cue ball, and nailed it like it was a hanger.
Seriously, for those that don't know this system, GO OUT AND LEARN IT.
This is what i was left with after i did the shot by the numbers.
Not to bad for not giving up BIH.
How many people actually know the system i am talking about?
Cause, i literally have played pool once in the past 3 weeks for about 2 hours, but after some of the responses in this thread, i grabbed my cue and i headed over to the pool room to check out this shot.
So, i set it up once and tried to feel it with no system and wiffed.
Then i set it up again, and i counted my diamonds for the 4 ball, found the corresponding number on the top rail, did my parallel line, hit it at about 2oclock on the cue ball, and nailed it like it was a hanger.
Seriously, for those that don't know this system, GO OUT AND LEARN IT.
This is what i was left with after i did the shot by the numbers.
Not to bad for not giving up BIH.
Banks
Banned
Ick to the 3-rail. You could just as easily open up the pocket or even miss completely to give them BIH without changing anything. If you're playing somebody that's no going to run out regularly, push the 15 next to your balls, make him break it out while still getting leave on it. Or I'd prefer banking the 8 back into that mess and either make it tougher on your opponent or even leave them with what Branpureza showed.
I'd say locking up the 15 would be a beginner D, banking the 8 intermediate and 3-railing would be an advanced D. Go with what you're most sure you're capable of executing. Otherwise you'll fall into your opponent's trap of trying too hard on a shot and helping them out. If you want to win, play smart. If you want to learn new things, play hard.
I'd say locking up the 15 would be a beginner D, banking the 8 intermediate and 3-railing would be an advanced D. Go with what you're most sure you're capable of executing. Otherwise you'll fall into your opponent's trap of trying too hard on a shot and helping them out. If you want to win, play smart. If you want to learn new things, play hard.