how would you play this?

skins said:
if it were for the match?...
If the 6 was frozen and the cue was a little farther off the rails, I'd use inside follow to pocket the 6 and return the cue ball roughly to where it is.

As is, I'd bank the 6 to the 9, and play the cue ball with outside follow to leave it stuck on the right rail.
 
I would slow roll the six in the hole and they play the 7 two rail safety in behind the nine and leave the cue ball down near where the 7 was. Let the other person figure out what to do with it.
 

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this is the snooker i would play. ABCD look all pritty safe. the B maybe he could try to cornerpocket it, but still. should be a not to hard safety to play.
 
my solution.

here is what i played and it won me the tournament. i hid the six behind the high side of the nine and locked up the cue behind the low side of the eight

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I really like all the suggestions but the one that stands out is the rail-first play. If I know I can clip that ball, that's what I'm gonna do. If I feel that side-pocket is making me compensate too much, I'm going with Skin's (and Jewitt's) safety. Even if I catch that double-kiss, I'm likely leaving a bank and that 9-ball could still play as a blocker.
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
I really like all the suggestions but the one that stands out is the rail-first play. If I know I can clip that ball, that's what I'm gonna do. If I feel that side-pocket is making me compensate too much, I'm going with Skin's (and Jewitt's) safety. Even if I catch that double-kiss, I'm likely leaving a bank and that 9-ball could still play as a blocker.

in my thinking the rail first option would have given the cue ball more opportunity to "fly" out of line. my choice was based on a more simple reaction the balls would make based on whether my speed control was executed. speed control is always one of the most major keys to this game once you can make balls.
 
skins said:
in my thinking the rail first option would have given the cue ball more opportunity to "fly" out of line. my choice was based on a more simple reaction the balls would make based on whether my speed control was executed. speed control is always one of the most major keys to this game once you can make balls.

i think if u dont play cusion first , the double hit can be very dangerous. the 7 ball could be kicked towards the pocket. playing cussion first kinda solves this. anyway, was just my 2c :D
 
skins said:
here is what i played and it won me the tournament. i hid the six behind the high side of the nine and locked up the cue behind the low side of the eight

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The chances of controlling all three aspects of this shot, especially "locking up your opponent on the 8 are minimal. The angle your coming in at with the cue ball poses a high risk for a double kiss and that may be the best shot to actually try because you could end up with cue ball travel like you showed by beating the dbl kiss. Going to the rail first exposes you to losing control of the shot. One could also bump the 6 to the end rail and leave the cue on the r/s long rail. This is definitely not an offensive shot.
 
Island Drive said:
The chances of controlling all three aspects of this shot, especially "locking up your opponent on the 8 are minimal. The angle your coming in at with the cue ball poses a high risk for a double kiss and that may be the best shot to actually try because you could end up with cue ball travel like you showed by beating the dbl kiss. Going to the rail first exposes you to losing control of the shot. One could also bump the 6 to the end rail and leave the cue on the r/s long rail. This is definitely not an offensive shot.

i can do this shot and hide both balls about 95% of the time on any table i'm playing on for a while let's say like in the mid to later rounds of a tourney. the the six wasn't frozen. it was about 1/2 inches off the rail. this gave me plenty of room to avoid the kiss. the cue wasn't frozen to the eight either. it was just very close and same with the six by the nine. i took this shot becuse i knew my chances of executing it were very good.
 
My initial thought was the same as Donovan's but after reading the other replies, I really like those safeties.

This is why I love these threads.
 
skins said:
i can do this shot and hide both balls about 95% of the time on any table i'm playing on for a while let's say like in the mid to later rounds of a tourney. the the six wasn't frozen. it was about 1/2 inches off the rail. this gave me plenty of room to avoid the kiss. the cue wasn't frozen to the eight either. it was just very close and same with the six by the nine. i took this shot becuse i knew my chances of executing it were very good.

Yeah, I thought the six was frozen, not sure what that black line on the bottom of the 6 was, thought maybe it designated "froze". Then the distance that the cue ball is off the long rail would determine my shot, the closer it is to the long rail the more inclined I'm towards your shot, when the cue ball moves farther away from the long rail the shot you took is no longer there.
 
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Good shooting Skins. Most people would lose from this position because all the shots and safeties are difficult to execute. FYI I would have made the 6 (slow roll) and either safed the seven or banked it, depending on the table.
 
TATE said:
Good shooting Skins. Most people would lose from this position because all the shots and safeties are difficult to execute. FYI I would have made the 6 (slow roll) and either safed the seven or banked it, depending on the table.

i thought the 6 play and bank would leave to much work. i was thinking even i did play the 6 the safe leaves me with much more green to move the 7 and i could easily leave a piece of it that can be seen and i might of had the same type safe i did played on me. i played the shorter safe because the short roll was much easier to control than a long roll safe on the 7 and the angles were natural. the bank was not an option for the win imo.
 
skins said:
i can do this shot and hide both balls about 95% of the time on any table i'm playing on for a while let's say like in the mid to later rounds of a tourney. the the six wasn't frozen. it was about 1/2 inches off the rail. this gave me plenty of room to avoid the kiss. the cue wasn't frozen to the eight either. it was just very close and same with the six by the nine. i took this shot becuse i knew my chances of executing it were very good.

The shot in the diagram looks impossible, even if the ball is slightly off the rail. Can you touch it up and show the path the cueball takes? Because unless you get some double kiss, the cueball is not gonna deflect that far into the middle of the end rail, with both balls positioned the way they are. It would require a very thick hit to even get that tangent line, but you have follow on the ball and you are still gonna roll towards the 2nd diamond at the farthest. How can you spin behind the 8? And if I set this shot up exactly as diagrammed on a table, and let you warm up on it for a while, and gave you 100 tries, do you really think you could do it at least 95 times? I don't think so.
 
cuetechasaurus said:
The shot in the diagram looks impossible, even if the ball is slightly off the rail. Can you touch it up and show the path the cueball takes? Because unless you get some double kiss, the cueball is not gonna deflect that far into the middle of the end rail, with both balls positioned the way they are. It would require a very thick hit to even get that tangent line, but you have follow on the ball and you are still gonna roll towards the 2nd diamond at the farthest. How can you spin behind the 8? And if I set this shot up exactly as diagrammed on a table, and let you warm up on it for a while, and gave you 100 tries, do you really think you could do it at least 95 times? I don't think so.

sorry your right. look at the table edits. im sure this is much closer to the actual layout. a few inches mean allot.
 
cuetechasaurus said:
And if I set this shot up exactly as diagrammed on a table, and let you warm up on it for a while, and gave you 100 tries, do you really think you could do it at least 95 times? I don't think so.

ok maybe 95% was a little more of a way to say i was sure i could do the hook. i guess what i should have said was most likely i will execute the shot more than not. thanks for pointing out my numerical display of overconfidence though. ;) :)
 
With as many A players that seem to be on this board...Im suprised no one suggested jack up and draw your ball.
 
xianmacx said:
With as many A players that seem to be on this board...Im suprised no one suggested jack up and draw your ball.

if you jack up you'd have to hit the ball very hard which will loose your aim and put english on the cue ball that will transfer and make the object ball jaw out of the pocket or miss the pocket completely in most cases. that is a very very low percentage shot and attempting that shot in this situation would be suicide imo. being an A player myself my option was the best play for my game even though there are others as well.
 
skins said:
(about the straight draw shot) .... that is a very very low percentage shot and attempting that shot in this situation would be suicide imo. ...
I mostly agree, especially since the cue ball is an inch from the end rail. There are a few players who can make a shot like that reasonably often (Larry Nevel?), but not on tight equipment on the first try. If you manage to get the right draw distance, and the six doesn't hang, a miss might come out safe. To me the only thing to recommend the shot is the psychological factor. If I make it, my opponent is crushed, and if I miss it, he thinks I'm insane. It's also a reasonable shot for an A player against a D.
 
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