i need a new bandsaw
- Thread starter desi2960
- Start date
D o a l l 16"
2hp, variable speed (cut wood or metal) built like a tank with large tilting table, blade welder, made in the USA.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DoAll-Vertical-Band-Saw-/330529456702?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf517423e
http://cgi.ebay.com/DoAll-Vertical-Band-Saw-/330529456702?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf517423e
Hard to say why you can't cut straight without more info.
It may not be the machine's fault. Did you just buy your machine and started cutting? That could be the problem.
Do you have a good/sharp on the machine? The stock blade that comes on a lot of machines is crap! Get a good one, like a Timber Wolf.
Is it the right blade for your application? Correct width and toot configuration? If you're trying to resaw a 4" piece of wood with a 1/4", 10 TPI blade, good luck.
Did you set the blade tension correctly?
Are you letting the blade do the cutting, or are you forcing the wood through the cut?
Did you adjust the blade guides on the machine? If the guides aren't set properly, the blade will wander.
Just a few thoughts.
It may not be the machine's fault. Did you just buy your machine and started cutting? That could be the problem.
Do you have a good/sharp on the machine? The stock blade that comes on a lot of machines is crap! Get a good one, like a Timber Wolf.
Is it the right blade for your application? Correct width and toot configuration? If you're trying to resaw a 4" piece of wood with a 1/4", 10 TPI blade, good luck.
Did you set the blade tension correctly?
Are you letting the blade do the cutting, or are you forcing the wood through the cut?
Did you adjust the blade guides on the machine? If the guides aren't set properly, the blade will wander.
Just a few thoughts.
Well said Mr. Bill
Along with that, don't forget to align the table with the blade, all the way to the stop is not necessarily the alignment.
I'd love a free tabletop, now that you mention it
Along with all the good points Bill noted, keep in mind that
even a great bandsaw is not a cabinet saw that cuts 'straight' right
out of the box.(in theory)
They all have some 'blade drift' that must be compensated for.
Google "cutting veneer on a bandsaw" and you will get enough info
for a good education.
Dickie(rhncue) has a book he swears by. Something like
"tuning a bandsaw"??.
A 14 inch Jet is a lot of saw for the money.
IMHO - first thing to do is try to define just what you want to do
on the bandsaw. For example, if you want to do 18 inch crosscuts
the 14 inch Jet doesn't have the capacity.
Dale
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I sold my table top model in an auction as I was having the same problems, especially with heavy woods like Ebony. I then went down to Springfield and bought a 16" Grizzly. I consider it okay. I once used a old Powermatic that someone else had and it cut straight and true ten times as well as my Grizzly. I bought the roller guides from my Grizzly and it still does not cut as good as that old powermatic that just had the normal pressure guides. It was designed to cut metal and was even a little smaller than the Grizzly. I had to go to the 3/4" blade on my Grizzly and that other saw cut great with a half inch blade.
While at Grizzly down there one time I watched a guy peeling off hardwood veneers off of a 8" log. So I know if you know what you are doing and set everthing up right you can do things I have not been able to do. Springfield is not all that far for you. You might want to go down there and see what they suggest now.
While at Grizzly down there one time I watched a guy peeling off hardwood veneers off of a 8" log. So I know if you know what you are doing and set everthing up right you can do things I have not been able to do. Springfield is not all that far for you. You might want to go down there and see what they suggest now.
Hi,
Variable speed band saws are the ideal. I have bench top one and wish my big one was variable.
Rick
bandsaw
i just have a 10 inch craftsman. thickest wood i have tried to cut is 1 1/2 inch. i want to use it for cutting the diagonals you might have seen in some of my cues.
i have tried to adjust the guides, with out much luck. i might have been using a blade that is too small, and cutting too fast.
thanks to everyone for the suggestions, its a place to start.
chuck
i just have a 10 inch craftsman. thickest wood i have tried to cut is 1 1/2 inch. i want to use it for cutting the diagonals you might have seen in some of my cues.
i have tried to adjust the guides, with out much luck. i might have been using a blade that is too small, and cutting too fast.
thanks to everyone for the suggestions, its a place to start.
chuck
I've never used a carbide tooth blade but have talked to a few who have and they were very disenchanted with it's performance.I agree with others that Timberwolf is by far the best blades that I've ever used. Call them and explain your problems and what you will be cutting and they will tell you what type and tip blade that you should us. They are very knowledgeable. Here is a real good supplier:
http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/
The trick to using a band saw is to insure that it is tuned correctly. Very few tools tuning can make a difference in performance as it does on a band saw.
Dick
I bought the 17'' grizzly with the cast iron trunion this winter.
And i have to say that right out of the crate the blade wandered
before it was set up properly. It cuts beautiful now.
You might try skewing the blade.
Just square a piece of plywood on your table saw. Then put a
straight pencil mark right down the middle of it. Then take your
piece and freehand a cut about half way up your mark and turn
the bandsaw off. Without moving your piece .... clamp it down.
Now square your fence with the edge of the plywood. Now your
blade is square with the fence and will not be as anxious to wander.
That is if your guides and tension are setup properly as mentioned.
And i have to say that right out of the crate the blade wandered
before it was set up properly. It cuts beautiful now.
You might try skewing the blade.
Just square a piece of plywood on your table saw. Then put a
straight pencil mark right down the middle of it. Then take your
piece and freehand a cut about half way up your mark and turn
the bandsaw off. Without moving your piece .... clamp it down.
Now square your fence with the edge of the plywood. Now your
blade is square with the fence and will not be as anxious to wander.
That is if your guides and tension are setup properly as mentioned.