If You Cant Break With A Cue Its Not Worth Having

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fordtechandy

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I had a shaft brought in for tip replacement. Where the ferrule was compressed like a crushed tin can. When I told them it would need a new ferrule and tenon. and reccomend they dont break with it, they got mad stating the guy at the pool hall that sold them the cue said if you cant break with its not worth having.

If you cant break with a cue its not worth having..

What are your thoughts on this statement?????????????

and no i did not fix it I handed it back and told them it must not be worth having
 
fordtechandy said:
I had a shaft brought in for tip replacement. Where the ferrule was compressed like a crushed tin can. When I told them it would need a new ferrule and tenon. and reccomend they dont break with it, they got mad stating the guy at the pool hall that sold them the cue said if you cant break with its not worth having.

If you cant break with a cue its not worth having..

What are your thoughts on this statement?????????????

and no i did not fix it I handed it back and told them it must not be worth having
Click to expand...

Jack White used to say the same thing. I break with my cue and have never had a problem. And I break pretty hard.

Cheers,
RC
 
Tap, Tap, besides if you break with your playing cue then you only need one cue and that's no fun.
 
The cues I break with always wind up with more chips, dings and bumps than my playing cues. I have broken parts of various break cues that I have not had problems with on my players.

I play on alot of Valley bar boxes, therefore, lots of metal and things that are unfriendly to cues that are being swung hard. I don't mind accidentally scraping or dinging a $200-$300 break cue. It is a different story with a South West or Tad.

I understand the theory of the statement. I also understand I ain't breaking with a $2K+ cue. Right tool for the right job.
 
I aggree, a game like 1P where a soft break is used no big deal. some ferrules & tips may even somewhat handle hard breaking, but I always recomend that a player break with a different cue from their player, because at a minimum It's likely to cause loss of shape to their tip. With that said, I have had a couple of people that wanted a soft ferrule such as MP that's prone to cracking (especially with a large tenon), and even though they said they would'nt be breaking with the cue, I knew them personally, and knew they would use It to break anyway. What I have done ocasionally, was install a fibre backer. Sometimes this can add a element that some feel flattens out the hit, and I have even felt that way before, but the last time I did this It had virtually no ill effects on the hit of this cue, and has held up very well to breaking. This was a big guy too, so It's been put through the ringer, and still standing so far.
Still yet, and this is just My opinion, I would recomend that another cue be used for breaking, even If just a house cue off the rack.:)

The point about the hits a break cue takes is a good one also. Often times a break cue ends up hitting the lights, and if they are sharp can take a chunk out or nick a shaft. I have repaired many with a chunk out, even My own a time or 2 :o :D

Greg
 
fordtechandy said:
I had a shaft brought in for tip replacement. Where the ferrule was compressed like a crushed tin can. When I told them it would need a new ferrule and tenon. and reccomend they dont break with it, they got mad stating the guy at the pool hall that sold them the cue said if you cant break with its not worth having.

If you cant break with a cue its not worth having..

What are your thoughts on this statement?????????????

and no i did not fix it I handed it back and told them it must not be worth having
Click to expand...
If the customer wants to break with THEIR cue, why not educate them on what type ferrules are available. Then, if they understand the potential hazards, do the work and send them along their merry way.

Give them what they want...a better ferrule, so they can break with it, while at the same time making the cue worth having. ( A healthy dose of disclaimer is in order here as well.)

Gene
 
JoeyInCali said:
One-pocket, true.
If you like your playing tip, don't in 9-ball.
Click to expand...
A Sniper tip among others, can handle either break nicely.

Gene
 
I read that Nick Varner would break with his player because he felt the break was the most important shot of the game. With a quality built cue with a quality tip, breaking shouldn't be a problem as long as you accept that breaking could have adverse effects on the business end of your cue.
 
I broke with my player for ten years with no ill effects. I still do, when I'm too lazy to get out two sticks.

To each his own.

-s
 
JCIN said:
The cues I break with always wind up with more chips, dings and bumps than my playing cues.

I play on alot of Valley bar boxes, therefore, lots of metal and things that are unfriendly to cues that are being swung hard. I don't mind accidentally scraping or dinging a $200-$300 break cue. It is a different story with a South West or Tad.

I understand the theory of the statement. I also understand I ain't breaking with a $2K+ cue. Right tool for the right job.
Click to expand...


TAP TAP TAP :)
 
I would put a solid capped white linen based ferrule on the cue and tell him to break and play with it all he wants to. Some people will always just want to break with the cue they play with. Many of the pros felt that way at one time. I use a break jump cue and feel it gives a slight edge to the break. But it sure would be nice to only have to carry a small case with a single cue in it.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
sliprock said:
I read that Nick Varner would break with his player because he felt the break was the most important shot of the game. With a quality built cue with a quality tip, breaking shouldn't be a problem as long as you accept that breaking could have adverse effects on the business end of your cue.
Click to expand...


The tip and shaft IS the business end of a cue.
So it should not be a problem as long as the player is willing to accept those problems?
Do I read that right?

Willee
 
I try too hard to improve my stroke skills and reduce variables leading to missed shots to mess up the tip and ferrule of the play cue.
 
is he saying,,,

1...if a cue breaks well, it's made well.

2...you should break with a playing cue.
 
JimS said:
I try too hard to improve my stroke skills and reduce variables leading to missed shots to mess up the tip and ferrule of the play cue.
Click to expand...
That's what we're trying to say here JimS, you don't have to compromise if the proper combination of tip and ferrule are used. However, if it is a compromise to you to use such a combination that would hold up under power shots, then you are doing the right thing. Stay with using two cues.

Breaking with one's player is not for everyone. But it certainly can be done very easily and with high quality materials used. It just isn't everyone's cup of tea.

Gene
 
WilleeCue said:
The tip and shaft IS the business end of a cue.
So it should not be a problem as long as the player is willing to accept those problems?
Do I read that right?

Willee
Click to expand...

Willee, Your definition of business end is a little more detailed than mine. The point that I was trying to make was, With a quality built cue, breaking shouldn't really hurt structually. It will however cause excessive wear on the tip and if a player is willing to accept the risk of blowing out a tip mid match, then break on.
 
So does a break cue breaks better than a playing cue? If the playing cue allow you to break better, why not use it! Paul Thornley, once told me that if he playing in a big money game, he will alway break with his Szamboti. He said he had a lot more control with his playing cue when breaking and wouldn't trust any other cue to do the job.

I've alway wonder if he use it because of consistency.

REgards,
Duc.





Regards,
Duc.
 
It comes down to the right tool for the job...usually a stronger taper and harder tip for breaking...softer tip and longer taper for playing...also I think repeated hard breaking with a player cue compresses the tip making it progressively harder esp. with unlayered tips...
 
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