If you could narrow down breaking advice to just a few tips...

I worked a little more on it recently and I'm really struggling. I guess I have a fundamentals issue.

Like anyone else in the world I get bored breaking and re-racking, yet I'm too cheap to buy a breakrak and wait for it to ship. So I figured a simple break test (if your goal is squatting the CB) would be to just place a single ball on the head spot and let 'er rip. What I figured out is that the minimum speed you'd want for an 8b break will send that single ball to the foot rail, up the head rail, and then halfway back. In other words you're hitting hard enough to make the CB travel at least 1.75 table lengths (on a 9 footer).

When I hit that single ball hard enough to do this, I cannot make the cue ball stop reliably.

I always thought I had pretty decent fundamentals, and if I have to make an 8 foot stop shot where the CB only moves an inch or three, I can do it. But hitting hard and stopping dead seem possible. Can anyone else try this one-ball break shot and tell me if they can do it reliably? I'm half tempted to make a new thread asking for video proof of such a thing >_<
 
The reaction of the cue ball on a single ball will be different that it will be when the cue ball hits 15 balls due to the difference in mass. Have you ever been through pool school? If you have, I can tell you that my break speed is around an 8 on the speed scale. If you haven't, an 8 speed would start at the headspot, hit the foot rail, back to he head rail, back to the foot rail again, and end up around the headstring. (about 32 feet on a 9 footer)
I have found that I can use my normal SPF stroke and maintain control at that speed, and the cue ball will rebound off the rack and usually end up in the middle area of the table, assuming another ball doesn't kick it around.
And while that works for me, you may find that your break might need to be a little different. The important thing is to work with your normal stroke, and build your speed to the point where you don't lose control.
An accurate shot on the rack will transfer the greatest percentage of energy to the rack.

Steve
 
I did notice there's a difference, though I never got the physics behind it. It looks like the ball rebounds backwards a bit and hops, then hits the slate and dies. I've done it sometimes, and I've read a few people saying you need a hair of topspin or else whitey goes backwards instead of sticking the landing.

Nonetheless, if someone can make the ball die with all that bouncing, they should be able to make it die with a single ball, yah?

I won't say it's impossible, it's just a mystery to me. I'm nowhere near making it stop at 18 feet and you're saying you get it at 30+ feet. If I hadn't seen pros do it on TV I wouldn't even believe it. Maybe I just don't stroke straight.

I've considered school but I don't have much money. I try to get what I can from the forums >_<
 
One of the BEST TIP I ever got on Breaking was at the Predator booth at the BCAPL, think the guy name is Dominic, and he is from Florida.

He said most people Break too hard, and you sould use a Speed you can control, and not use JET Speed unless you can control the Cue Ball.
 
Breaking

Don't know your age, but if your under 30 I bet you want to be a run out player. No problem. Break hard and run out. I'm different, have played since about 1963. In my prime (30-40) I many time ran 5-6 racks almost nightly. 6 days a week. But I've lost that loving feeling(Richteous Bros). Now I like the long game. I work hard, you work hard, nobody but 9 speeds running. I break the second ball, low left and the cue goes to mid table. Corner right ball goes in corner. I'm breaking from left side of table. Almost all balls stay on one end of table, called a half table game, short shots and cue working in small locations, which behooves the better player. Very crowded and hook city. Yes I am a defensive player. If we were playing tennis would I hit the ball right back to you? No, I would hit it where your not standing!!
 
CreeDo said:
My break has sucked forever. I'd call myself a solid B player, I'll usually get at least 2 or 3 runouts in a 3 hour session.
I'd say I make a ball on the break 1 in 5 times or worse.

I'm not superstitious, I believe it can be fixed and it's not just bad luck, but I swear I've tried everything. Can anyone comment on which of these is really important and helpful?

1. Start out slow so you can squat the cue ball, and gradually work up your speed... This works ok in 9b, soft break is good enough. But in 8b I just leave clusters.

2. Focus on the cue ball last/focus on the shadow under the head ball... Which of these is better? I like focusing on the CB last to avoid accidental english but then I feel like I can't aim at the head ball as accurately.

3. Lean forward, choke up on the bridge... I get that this will help with accuracy. Do most pros actually do this? I feel like a shortened bridge won't let me draw far enough back to generate much power. Dunno what leaning forward does.

4. Pause at the end of the backswing... Huge fan of the pause and I use it in my regular game, especially on long shots. But both in my regular game and when breaking, I feel like I can't generate a ton of power from a dead stop. So I can't really pause while breaking and I also have trouble doing it on long powerful draw strokes.

5. Aim a little low on the cue ball... I've also heard aim for the center. It feels like as the stick goes from a little angled (backswing) to more level (forward swing) the tip rises naturally. So I just aim low and let it. Bad habit?

6. Keep the back hand loose... I sort of get the idea is to prevent you from choking the forward momentum of your stick, but do I really need to keep it looser than what feels natural? I can't tell if this is helping at all.

-----

Above all else, where do you position the cue ball and aim? In 9b... I get how to position the cue ball to make the wing ball per joe tucker's DVD, but I still don't get it in even 25% of the time, and that's when I think I've found the sweet spot (usually all the way to the side).

In 8b I've given up trying to make a specific ball. I've seen shane pop the 2nd row of balls into the side pockets all day in 10b. But the same thing just isn't happening in 8b when I try it.

Also, I feel like I can't get a ton of power using a standard closed bridge. I feel like a rail bridge reduces chafing and gets a much better spread. But it feels less accurate. Should I ditch it? I think relying on the rail hurts my 9b game because the ideal break spot is a few inches from the rail, past where I can comfortably rail bridge. I settle for rail bridging plus cutting the ball a bit.
Click to expand...

Whack the rack in a solid none glancing manner and only use some type of Low English, nothing more / nothing less except ofr a good foolow through stroke!!!!!!
 
2nd ball break

Try hitting second ball behind head ball. If breaking from left use low left. Cue slides sideways to rail and left returns cue hopefully to center of table. Hit a medium break and watch corner balls go in corner pockets. If not, adjust speed till corner ball goes. This is also the old eight ball in side pocket break. I love this break because it many times results in a half table game. Most balls staying on half the table. Short shots, balls tied up. It is somewhat of a safe break (clusters). If your a runout player, bust em up big boy. If you don't run out you will leave an easy table for your opp. Another problem with hard breaking is when you don't make a ball your opp may have an easy runout! Either way it's nice to have several breaks. Safe break is great against world beaters. And of course safe breaks bother people just like defense and that makes for a stronger America!
 
The Break is nothing more than a high speed Stop Shot!!!!!!!!!

If you make a ball on the Break around 50% of the time you should be giving lessons.

SPF=randyg
 
Pool school is an investment in your game, that not only pays immediate dividends, but continues to pay off for years to come...unlike that new cue/shaft/case etc.

If you continue to do the same inconsistent things, you will continue to get the same inconsistent results.

Here's the "tips" you asked for: 1) slow down your break speed; 2) pause at the backswing; 3) keep your grip loose, and consistent throughout the backswing and forward stroke; 4) make sure to FINISH your stroke. The weight of the cue and perfect timing is all that's required for an excellent controlled break. No lunging or body weight is necessary, and in fact, may be detrimental for many trying to improve their break.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

CreeDo said:
I've considered school but I don't have much money. I try to get what I can from the forums >_<
Click to expand...
 
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