I’m thinking about installing a new ferrule without a tenon. Instead of a tenon, I will cut a solid ferrule blank down to 5/16 inch for 3/4 inch, then epoxy this into a 5/16 inch x 3/4 inch hole in the shaft. I’m sure others have done this; just wondering what the results were and what I can expect my results to be. Thanks.
Installing a ferrule without a tenon
- Thread starter Tom1234
- Start date
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
I'd not be surprised to see the shaft break. Unless you are very meticulous, you will be adding stress risers in the weak, highly stressed part of the shaft.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
That isn't a fair statement. I have no doubt it can be done successfully, but I believe (without running numbers) that 3/4" is likely not enough depth into the shaft, especially if stress risers are built into the design, or happen during implementation.
Put the calculator down lol it doesn’t really …. I mean seriously why live in a world where we learn from others mistakes
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DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
Don't be so ignorant lol. Some learning off other's mistakes is figuring out what they did wrong.
You know Edison want the only dude inventing light bulbs, right? If he and all the others had given up because some dude I'm Cincinnati failed, we'd still be burning whale oil.
More deflection.
No, thanks
No, thanks
It will also play worse than a cue with a tenon
The concept of a ferrule, is to add hoop strength to the end of the wood shaft. Some still use just a thin wall brass or Al sleeve, like on a traditional snooker cue. The idea of a hole and then the ferrule turned down and glued is not not new at all. I have had to repair cues that split due to that ferrule concept.
JC
Coos Cues
I have seen a few shafts that split from having a wooden tenon installed in them to replace a broken ferule tenon.
JC
Coos Cues
I would be interested to understand how this repair could make the shaft stronger.
The thinner the shaft up at the ferule the weaker this type of repair will be.
The best way to address this if the customer will have it is with a longer ferule that you can cut stepped to cradle the end grain of the broken shaft a bit. 1/8" is enough to reinforce the grain from splitting. The word I have gotten is the failures tend to happen on a hard draw shot. Some people probably never shoot hard enough to matter.
JC
Coos Cues
I will accept that if care is taken the joint will be usually be strong enough to give trouble free service for many years.
There is no way on earth however that it's stronger than it was back when it had it's own wood as a tenon coming out of the center. I am not an engineer but I'm pretty certain of this based on what I know about wood and glue.
It's a moot point though because at the point the tenon is gone there are few options.
Why not just ferrule less...because if I understand right what you described it is not a ferrule but an insert under the tip...so you're looking for more deflection or what?
Even thinking out of the box you have certain goal to achieve...so what was yours behind this idea?)
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
There absolutely is, in theory, the possibility of the shaft being stronger. If the glue bond is stronger (and it usually is) than the wood, and the glue bond is complete, this will be stronger than the original wood.
In practice, it is likely that the glue joint isn't perfect and that stress risers exist.
I am an engineer and this tracks based on my knowledge of woodworking and engineering.
so shaft blanks are normally 30 inches........ if a customer wants a 31 inch shaft.......... I finish the shaft and drill in about a inch or an inch and a half with a 5/16 drill............. I turn a tenon out of a scrap maple shaft and epoxy in the new tenon and leave an inch out for the ferrule............ it certainly is stronger than the original shaft and I have done many of these and some players break with them and never a failure
Kim
Kim