Is a Break Cue Necessary?

Purpose?

I think you may want to weigh the purpose of buying a break cue, for you personally. I had long used one of my old players as a break cue, but tried a friend's Kevin Varney J/B and was surprised as the difference. I was quickly squatting the ball in the middle of the table and consistently pocketing 2, sometimes 4 balls on the break. The difference for me has been better layouts for runouts in 8 and 9 ball. I'm a real believer now in the utility of a break/jump cue. Plus the cue jumps so well I don't even need a jump cue anymore. I've found that good J/B tend to be made differently than players, obviously they are made for breaking, but this means stiffer tapers and balance point.
So if you're just playing for fun, then a regular house cue or modified playing cue with a samsara tip would be fine.
If you're looking for more consistent breaks and ball control, then a break cue makes complete sense. Often times the difference in games or even sets depends upon the position of the cue ball after the break. If you have a tool that leaves you in a better position for each game, then it's up to you to determine if it is worth the money to you.
Hope that helps. I wanted to offer you my view since I'm a recent "convert." Good luck on your search.
 
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Well . . . . it's a break cue

It's a "break" cue if it was engineered to do just that . . . a good one (Lomax, SledgeHammer, BK2, etc.) is stiff in the right places, has a harder tip and generally puts the power to the rack better then most other cues.

If the budget allows, then you're better off with one. Most games are better off if you use a break cue. A person with a hard break (especially) will put a lot of wear on their "player" cue - and I don't like replacing $20 tips more often then I have to, and I sure in hell wouldn't break with an expensive cue (+$500). If straight pool is your thing, then you may have an exception - it's typically a soft break, close-in game.

You don't necessarily have to buy a "break" designed cue . . . a lot of good players mod a "players" cue INTO a breaker . . . lighten up the weight a bit, add a Samsara, White Diamond, special tip, and wallah! But anything is better then a house cue . . .
 
Good advice

You have already had plenty of it. I have a J&J break/jump cue with 2 shafts. One is the original phenolic and the other one I had a super 'dub' tip put on ($20). I use the shaft with the super dub tip all the time now. You can buy a J&J for $60-65. It saves a lot of wear and tear of your playing cue, and probably gives you, what I estimate, a 15-18% better break.
 
Guapo said:
Sorry to piggy back your thread OP but since we're on the topic, I think it's better than clutter the front page with another thread.

If this post is not ok with you, let me know and I'll delete it.

Last Friday I purchased a Eliminator SP for $35 to play with while my player is being made.

Once my player is ready in a couple of months, what do you guys recommend I do to convert it into a break cue?
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Use the Eliminator SP to play with, and convert you new custom player to a break cue...:idea2:
 
So True

Ghosst said:
But just about any serious player I'm aware of has a break cue because that shot alone determines the rest of your match. And most don't want to hammer the stack with their playing cue. At least not if they like it.
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I have (and i'm sure many others here have as well), had times where a match is decicded on the break. been on both sides of this as well. it is 1/3 of your game in my opinion.

What I have noticed is that those who like playing with hard tips also don't mind what kind of stick they break with. Some of the old-guard do have their own stick though. this tells me they like hard tips for playing & breaking; however they care enough to make sure their player is in pristine playing condition.

I don't play 14.1 (there's a silly reason for that), so you may not have a high priority for a premium break cue.

Bottom Line:
I think you already made your decision and are looking to re-inforce your thoughts toward it. Do that which you need to do.
 
Another way of looking at is this - pool is a game of percentages. Like... you are tempted to do shot A, but you do shot B instead because you know statistically it's just a better play. Maybe only 5% better, but still better. Your brain just does that math subconsciously somehow.

You can break with a house cue. And if you have good breaking skills, it might get the job done. You might even make a ball on the break 70% of the time. But what if a good break cue improved that to 73%?

In my mind, there's no doubt a dedicated breaker will be more effective (at least a little) than a cue that's made for playing, or a house cue. And probably the difference is bigger than 3%. But it's hard to put a number on what the actual percentage is. What I do know is... even if it's a small percent, a good cue can last 20 years. In that context... if you don't need the 200 bucks for your phone bill or something... why not? Worst case is, you hate it and can probably sell it for most of what you paid for it, and then spend that money elsewhere.
 
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This is my school of thought: I play with sneaky Pete's that cost between $300-$500. I use hard tips(Adam franks milk duds are my favorite, tiger dynamite might be just as good, verdict is still out, triangles will do just fine!). I break however hard I want to with these cues and then play with them. I still haven't mushroomed or had to replace a tip. I consistently make at least one ball and leave the cb in the middle of the table. I get all the English I want and more. I pay about $5 a tip and $5-$10 to have it put on. I use a jump cue for jumping. My only problem is finding a 1x2 case with a jump butt pocket. If I ever damage one of my playing cues I will have to buy a new one (oh damn!). I will admit, starting to play with hard tips will make you learn speed control all over again and you will soon recognize 2-3 rail scratch shots, but the control is better when you don't have to stroke as hard and a tip that lasts forever gives you some time to get used to it (approximately forever). Or you you can spend $30+ a tip repeatedly, screw around maintaining it, and another $200+ for a break cue to preserve the $30+ tip, all for the benefit of..........kamuii?
 
I like having a break cue.. If you play for money on a regular basis, what's another $200 for a break cue.
 
I know someone who has an original handmade Balabushka that he's had for 40+ years that he uses as his break + shooting cue for 9 ball as well as 8 ball. He's an 8 in 9 ball right now, soon to be a 9....

so no, not necessary.
 
Shane proved at the US open you dont need a break cue. although if your playing cue has a soft tip i would get a cue with a harder tip to break with.
 
Break cues came into play in the 60's. The cost to replace ivory ferrules, which were pretty much standard on all custom cues, became cost prohibitive, plus the metal on the Gold Crowns, and the name plate at the head of the table etched into the top rail could easily chew up your cuestick. Wish I would of kept every cracked ferrule I replaced.
 
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