Is this Ferrule Cracked? Maybe a Little Bondo Wood Filler?

That should be repairable.

I'm thinking there's gotta be some decent, extra long ferrule material out there that would work as a replacement and allow you to keep that shaft the same length. The look might takes some getting used to...

Saw dust in clear epoxy might make good filler material if you use a normal length ferrule.

Good luck with it.



.
 
I have the tip section from one of those 5 piece cues for a dbl sawbuck I would ship it to you. Any good cuemaker should be able to add a joint to your shaft to accomodate it. As a bonus you could have added length!
Let me know asap please, as if you dont want it I need to put it back in the frontlawn,as I use it with the other sections to measure snowfall amounts.
 
I'm still recommending shortening the shaft two inches...
...my carom cue is 55 inches....
...your shaft will have a much stiffer hit, which is necessary at billiards.
 
Looks like there was a significant gap between the tip and the tenon. That happens a lot with capped ferrules, as there is no visual indicator that the end of the tenon is up against the ferrule. It can happen with uncapped ferrules, too; but only if the installer ignores the tenon being low when he installs the tip.

If there is a gap, all of the pressure from contact is driven down onto the shoulder of the shaft with the tenon serving no purpose at all. If the ferrule was also thinned out a bit, then the result would be exactly what happened to yours.
 
Did he say bondo???? Lol that shaft is done! Cut it off and use it for a break shaft or carom instead
 
pt109 said:
I'm still recommending shortening the shaft two inches...
...my carom cue is 55 inches....
...your shaft will have a much stiffer hit, which is necessary at billiards.
Click to expand...

Your idea does sound intriguing. I don't really play 3 cushion, only two tables in town and I'm obsessed with pool currently.

However...

I play with a 3.5"'extension insert full time so my cue together could still work with a shortened shaft, if it was taken down by an inch, or not as much with a longer ferrule installed.

Worse case scenario, yes, a carom shaft would be cool to have and may just get me out of the basement onto one of those 3 cushion tables at Premium Billiards.
 
pookster said:
Did he say bondo???? Lol that shaft is done! Cut it off and use it for a break shaft or carom instead
Click to expand...

What about Bondo, duct tape, and a little bit of plumbers putty to fill the low deflection void? :groucho:

That might do the trick.
 
MSchaffer said:
Looks like there was a significant gap between the tip and the tenon. That happens a lot with capped ferrules, as there is no visual indicator that the end of the tenon is up against the ferrule. It can happen with uncapped ferrules, too; but only if the installer ignores the tenon being low when he installs the tip.

If there is a gap, all of the pressure from contact is driven down onto the shoulder of the shaft with the tenon serving no purpose at all. If the ferrule was also thinned out a bit, then the result would be exactly what happened to yours.
Click to expand...


Now this, is good information. Thank you.
 
Just got back from the autopsy investigation, here are the photos:













Update:

I took the shaft over to Dan Dishaw's shop and had his professional take on the situation. Upon removing the broken ferrule, Dan.saw right away that there was quite a void between the wooden tenon and the cap of the ferrule.

Also, in that void there was not a trace of glue/epoxy that would be used top bond the ferrule to the wood.

Also, the ferrule itself was threaded, yet tenon was smooth. The only place glue can be found was on the shoulder of the shaft and the very base threads of the ferrule. Like MSchaffer stated in a previous post, all the force was going onto the shoulder of the shaft and caused the failure.

Especially on a power draw shot, where all the force would be on the upper part of the tip and shaft, which explains the shattered wood from the top end of the cue.

In Mr. Dishaw's professional opinion, this was bad craftsmanship on the part of Longoni.

The next step is to bring this to the attention of Longoni.
 
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MSchaffer said:
Looks like there was a significant gap between the tip and the tenon. That happens a lot with capped ferrules, as there is no visual indicator that the end of the tenon is up against the ferrule. It can happen with uncapped ferrules, too; but only if the installer ignores the tenon being low when he installs the tip.

If there is a gap, all of the pressure from contact is driven down onto the shoulder of the shaft with the tenon serving no purpose at all. If the ferrule was also thinned out a bit, then the result would be exactly what happened to yours.
Click to expand...

You hit the nail on the head with this response. Not only was there a significant gap, but no trace of glue could be found either.
 
Lament

Sentence upon sentence
Words are healing lament
For the death of my shaft's spirit
Has no meaning in the soft fire
Words got me the wound and will get me well
If you believe it

All join now and lament for the death of my shaft
A tounge of knowledge in the feathered night
Boys get crazy in the head and suffer
I sacrifice my shaft on the alter of silence

Jim Morrison....kinda....:thumbup:
 
I never did get a chance to update this thread but a recent discussion in another thread bright this topic up.

Here are the photos to the cue repair/salvage from the details above....



















The last photo shows the shaft is only a few centimeters shorter than the standard length. A new plug and tenon were installed as well. I was also amazed to learn of the hollow void in the Longoni shaft which had been advertised as a solid/non hollow low deflection shaft. Their patent on the site doesn't even show the hollow void. Hmmmmm. :rolleyes:

Long story short- Longoni denied any error on their part but offered a replacement shaft at deep discount. Even though I'm done with Longoni I wasn't about to turn down a $300 shaft for $100 so I took them up on the offer.

I requested the shaft at 12.2, but they decided to send an S2 at 12.75 mm. Being an Italian company the lag time between correspondence/shipments is quite long, so I just left it at that.

The wonderful result from this unfortunate situation is that the dealer rep, Heath Manning of Manning Cues (was extremely disappointed in the Longoni response) was able to score me an OB classic shaft a super low price to hold me over while we waited on Longoni. I love the OB and uses it for the better part of the last year. So unless all this never happened, I'd never have discovered the wonderful world of OB shafts.

Thanks again to Manning Cues https://manningcues.com/store/home.php
 
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RussPrince said:
guess no more Longoni shafts (whatever the hell that is)
Click to expand...

I'm a little disappointed in Longoni....they've been in business for years....
...good rep....have made some great tables.

When I was young, you could buy a 6x12 Gold Crown for $1,800 new.....
...I played on a Longoni bocce table that sold for $7,000...and it was worth every penny.
 
This is been one of the best post I've read on this forum. Very informative and I actually think I learned something. Thanks for the story and the good pictures.
 
I thought the laminated shafts looked like this:

Preadator Shaft.JPG


This scares me:

Hallow Shaft.jpg
 
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