Jump Cue?

J-Flo

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What is the differance in jump cue tips and how do they help you get over a ball. I use a combo break/jump and my friends tell me its to heavy. I can get over a ball just fine but I jsut play to hit the ball not to play position on a jump like some can. What role does weight play? Why are jump cues getting away from leather tips?

Thanks in advance!
 
im not 100% sure, but break cues are supposedly forward balanced, so the handle thats left for the jump cue would be heavy. ideally jump cues are supposed to be light. as for tips i think they are the same.. either really hard leather or phenolic. i jump with my break cue all the time, as long as its not a short jump, it jumps pretty easily.
 
What is the differance in jump cue tips and how do they help you get over a ball. I use a combo break/jump and my friends tell me its to heavy. I can get over a ball just fine but I jsut play to hit the ball not to play position on a jump like some can. What role does weight play? Why are jump cues getting away from leather tips?

Thanks in advance!
BCAPL events require that you use a leather tip on your break cue. So if you have a phenolic tip on your jump/break cue, you may have to change to a leather tip to play in BCAPL events. That aside, a phenolic tip is harder than most leather tips and will allow you to jump more easily. Regarding weight, a lighter jump cue makes it much easier to jump shorter distances (as more vertical lift may be needed to clear the obstructing ball).
 
I am new to jumping. From my limited experience, anything that compresses hinders a crisp jump. I can't jump with any kind of leather tip, but with G10 I do pretty well for a beginner.

I have been working with some of the better jumpers in my area. From what I understand. Lighter and shorter is better for close jumps. Longer and heavier works better for long jumps. So it could come a day when people start bring two jump cues into battle.

Larry
 
No need for two. Try a lomax and your off to the races!

Chris

I am new to jumping. From my limited experience, anything that compresses hinders a crisp jump. I can't jump with any kind of leather tip, but with G10 I do pretty well for a beginner.

I have been working with some of the better jumpers in my area. From what I understand. Lighter and shorter is better for close jumps. Longer and heavier works better for long jumps. So it could come a day when people start bring two jump cues into battle.

Larry
 
No need for two. Try a lomax and your off to the races!

Chris

Hush!!!! I am trying to get the economy "jump" started one cuemaker at a time!:rolleyes:

I have seen a 3 piece jump cue. Short for jump shots longer for long shots. Nice concept

Larry
 
I'm wondering the same thing. I'm look to start trying to finally adding jumping to my bag of tricks.

I was looking at the peachauer jump cue but thought maybe a cheaper one might be a good place to start.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
 
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A phenolic tip is made from the same type of plastic as the ball which enables it to transfer most of the energy from the cue to the ball rather than absorbing it like a leather tip would.

Lighter is better when it comes to jump cues, and shaft taper also plays a big role. You want as much energy as possible going into the CB and a stiff taper and light cue gives you the best chance of doing this.

If you try and jump with a shaft that has a thin pro taper your going to have a difficult time getting the ball into the air because the shaft will flex and absorb most of the energy. Maybe a cue maker can explain it better than I can but I hope that helps.
 
I have seen a 3 piece jump cue. Short for jump shots longer for long shots. Nice concept

Larry

Nice concept but you should be aware that the BCA and other governing bodies specify that the jump cue must be a minimum of 40-inches long.

Anyone who is advertising a 3-piece jump cue may be engaging in a bit of deceptive advertising. If you remove the top two sections from the jump cue, the shortened jump cue may no longer be compliant with the 40-inch minimum length requirement. (I found this out the hard way while playing someone who correctly called me out on this rule.)

With a one-piece (non-compliant) shortened jump cue, I can easily jump gaps of 1-inch or so. With the longer and heavier two-piece jump cue, that 1-inch gap becomes much more difficult to jump.
 
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What is the differance in jump cue tips and how do they help you get over a ball. I use a combo break/jump and my friends tell me its to heavy. I can get over a ball just fine but I jsut play to hit the ball not to play position on a jump like some can. What role does weight play? Why are jump cues getting away from leather tips?

Thanks in advance!
Lighter weight enables the CB to more easily clear the cue tip after CB rebound off the table. A harder tip also helps with this, in addition to requiring slightly less effort. Phenolic tips are very hard, giving an advantage over leather.

However, the most important factor (by far) for successful and consistent jump shots is proper technique. The equipment can help only so much. For more info, and demonstrations, see:

Regards,
Dave
 
I agree with Dr. Dave that technique is by far the most important part of jumping a ball, but just be aware that some equipment will make it a real challenge.

I'm good enough at jumping that I'm usually more concerned about my aim than whether I'm going to clear the obstructing ball, but there's a huge difference between jumping with my jump cue, my break cue, and my playing cue.

I even remember a time when someone handed me a new jump/break that they bought and I couldn't jump any better with it (broken down) than I could with my playing cue. The tip was soft and the taper wasn't very rigid, so I was doing good to clear half a ball with that one.

Most of the people I've taught to jump struggle with it for a little bit, but once it clicks and you get a feel for what it's like to get the CB airborne a few times, it's pretty easy to do it consistently with just a little practice.
 
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