keep ferrule clean

Mole Eye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Any ideas on how to keep the ferrule nice and white. Just can't stand to see a nice cue with blue chalk all over the ferrule.
Thanks
 
Magic eraser works like a charm. The old "ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" is definitely true though. Just chalking properly manages to keep my cues clean. Good luck!
 
This is the main reason I prefer ivory ferrulles,they do not chalk up and always stay nice looking.
 
Carry some alcohol swabs in your cue case for on the spot cleaning. The small alcohol swabs can be purchased at any pharmacy, pretty cheap.

Then as has been posted, Magic Eraser. You can cut the ME into smaller squares and carry a couple in your case as well. You can dry clean with them or use a bit of water to wet them.
 
Carry some alcohol swabs in your cue case for on the spot cleaning. The small alcohol swabs can be purchased at any pharmacy, pretty cheap.

Then as has been posted, Magic Eraser. You can cut the ME into smaller squares and carry a couple in your case as well. You can dry clean with them or use a bit of water to wet them.

I've heard the Magic Eraser suggestion before. Some people say that the chemicals can damage the shaft and ferrule.

What has been your experience with them? Any noticeable damage?
 
I've heard the Magic Eraser suggestion before. Some people say that the chemicals can damage the shaft and ferrule.

What has been your experience with them? Any noticeable damage?

I have used it for the last year and a half on a older 314. No problems so far.
 
Soft Scrub, especially if you have a lathe. Use only a small dot, and clean it off with a small amount of high-quality spit, or water.
As with anything else, don't get it on the tip.
A bottle will last about three lifetimes. :)
 
Toothpaste With Whitener

Tape the ferrule just below where it's affixed to the shaft and use a good toothpaste with whitener and an old toothbrush - you'll be amzed at what comes off the ferrule. You can remove the residue of paste with a wet paper towel and then allow the tip and ferrule to adequately dry.....Voila!
 
A friend from Norfolk, NE gave this idea to keep the ferrel clean (and unscratched). Start at the center of the chalk and rub to one of the corners, alternate. The chalk does not create an indentation on the chalk. Takes a second or two more time to chalk.
 
I've heard the Magic Eraser suggestion before. Some people say that the chemicals can damage the shaft and ferrule.

What has been your experience with them? Any noticeable damage?

Magic Eraser works great unless used to clean a ferrule at high speed. It will scorch the ferrule on a 314-2 in less than a second.
 
Before the Magic Eraser sponges were invented I used car polishing compound (Turtle Wax), which cleaned up the ferrules easily. As mentioned you wouldn't want to get it on the shaft or tip.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
 
I love chalk on my ferrule and shaft. Adds character. Ferrules/shafts and cues in general with no chalk on them look like football players with no dirt on their uniform :)
 
what caused the chalk ? change methods to prevent it from happening again again

It requires a total package- good chalk that remains on the tip- Biiliards 50+ shots without adding (kamui chalk) sponges work best with alcohol. toothpaste and alcohol- works for blemishes as well. You can use alcohol on q-Tips and clean (the insert and Pin)-- let the sunlight brighten the shafts -uv. Burnishing the Tip, please remember to reseal the shaft wood (tip and ferrule , or wax and buff. ask someone who knows- like the other poster a 250.dollar Pred is destroyed in seconds. wear a glove for frictionless play-its all about the stroke. mark
 
Most any whitening toothpaste works as well.

Any white tooth paste will work. Toothpaste is a mildly abrasive compound that will remove the chalk. I do this and then put a little neutral shoe polish on the ferrule to help keep the chalk from penetrating the surface.

The most important thing,I think, is to chalk properly so this is an infrequent problem.
 
Thanks for the info. I've got several of these items, and will try them right away. I was careful with my cue and how I chalked up for a long time, but one careless moment and there you are. Appreciate the help.
 
If You're Boring A Chalk Hole....

I see so many players chalking their cues abudnantly. Notice I didn't say frequently....theses players put a lot more chalk on their cue tip than what's actually needed. You see the outcome on the felt where chalk remains after they've struck the cue ball.
Chalk is intended to create some friction between the cue ball surface and the cue tip. Chalk should be applied uniformly and lightly. Every few shots simply brush the chalk against the cue tip...don't spin the chalk around or wiggle it on the cue tip. Use the flat corners of the chalk as well The chalk is "applied" not rubbed and not in excess either.
Everyone has their own style and notions about what's right or wrong. I can just tell you when you pick up a piece of chalk and find that it has a hole in the middle, discrad it and start over with a new piece. Learn to do it properly and you'll be amazed at the results.

Matt
 
Back
Top