Lift the ban bca!!!!!!

You'll have to wait until JUNE 1st for the new rules. Just 9 more days maybe sooner.

You can always call Bill Stock at the BCAPL offices at 702-719-7665. A very like-able person with a long history of billiards as a very good player, referee, tournament director and the authority for equipment specification for the BCAPL.

td873 said:
Nope. Which is why my post was directed to Bill.

-td
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BVal said:
If you don't believe it maybe you wouldn't mind picking up the tab for the damaged cue balls instead of the BCAPL. It is obviously not true so it wouldn't cost you anything right? :eek:

BVal
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I still don't understand why they are replacing cue balls like crazy just for aesthetic reasons. To me it seems equivalent to replacing the cloth because of burn marks. Like burn marks, the cue ball marks are just there, and they don't bother anyone; very easy to ignore with no consequence. They get reset when the cloth eventually wears out and gets replaced, just like they would on a cue ball.

A little elaboration from the BCAPL isn't too much to ask for, IMO, given how much its members sacrifice to participate in their events.
 
Next we will have spring loaded rod like on a pinball machine to be a legal break fair to everyone. Heck we can even bring back the Sardo rack.
 
the other option is to go titanium with a center hole drilled out stuffed with leather.
 
BVal said:
If you don't believe it maybe you wouldn't mind picking up the tab for the damaged cue balls instead of the BCAPL.
BVal
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Does the BCAPL really pay for damaged cue balls? Any stats or even ideas on what this has cost them since phenolic tips were introduced around 10 years ago? I've never seen it in my league, but I have only been in it for 5 years so it may be more prevalent in others than mine. I do think, though, that there will be many leaguers buying new break cues in the long run rather than replace the tip and/or ferrule. This would pump quite a bit of cash into a struggling billiard retail economy. JMO.
:p
 
rayjay said:
Does the BCAPL really pay for damaged cue balls? Any stats or even ideas on what this has cost them since phenolic tips were introduced around 10 years ago? I've never seen it in my league, but I have only been in it for 5 years so it may be more prevalent in others than mine. I do think, though, that there will be many leaguers buying new break cues in the long run rather than replace the tip and/or ferrule. This would pump quite a bit of cash into a struggling billiard retail economy. JMO.
:p
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The damage to the cue balls was one of the reasons stated for banning the tips. I don't know the figures nor would I attempt to guess. I would guess that the figure is significant enough for them to make this decision. Even if they don't pay for the cue balls and Diamond does. They work very close with each other and I am sure they want to keep the costs down for everyone involved in putting on their events.

As for people going out and buying new cues instead of replacing the tip and/or ferrule. That just doesn't make sense to me at all. Maybe people will just use it as an excuse to buy a new cue but anyone who really goes out and buys one specifically because of that is kind of strange imo.

BVal
 
I have scuff marks on a brand new Arimith super pro cue ball from a simple miscue on a well chalked hard (layerd) tip. It is easy to imagine what a bad hit with my jump cue could do to it.

But, I have no problem with the new BCAPL rule. The difference in "jumpability" between a typical jump cue with phenolic tip and that same cue with a XX-hard tip is unmeasurable. In fact, the XX-hard tip is considerably easier to jump-draw or jump-massé than the phenolic tip is to do the same.

Nor do I think that one can get a useful power advantage on the break between a 95+ durometer tip versus a phenolic tip--a fraction of a MPH; maybe, some actually useful gain; doubtful. The same cannot be said with tips measuring 85 and softer on the durrometer, here, performance is actually lost.
 
I agree, it is kind of strange to replace the cue when you can replace the tip/ferrule, but I think it will happen. I'm going to put a milk dud on my Gulyassy/Samsara on top of the phenolic ferrule and see if that flies, but if not I may sell it and buy a new one. I know I'll take a beating on the old one though. And I also agree, for a lot of people it may just be the right excuse to get a new break cue! I see there's already a new thread asking for opinions on what is a good new break cue with a leather tip....
:p
 
BVal said:
As for people going out and buying new cues instead of replacing the tip and/or ferrule. That just doesn't make sense to me at all. Maybe people will just use it as an excuse to buy a new cue but anyone who really goes out and buys one specifically because of that is kind of strange imo.

BVal
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It's actually pretty simple; if someone prefers phenolic and the vast majority of their competitions allow phenolic, it makes sense that they would want to keep a phenolic tip on one of their shafts.
 
Very Weird, But What's New?

I don't know which thread and which poster stated it but.......where do you people get the notion that BCAPL or Diamond pays for cue balls or cloth due to phenolic tip damage????

If it happens in a tournament, the table provider pays for it. He may have insurance (I doubt it) or he may attempt to recoup it from the TD (I doubt it), it is what it is. That's the price for owing a business that provides pool tables.

If it's a pool hall, the owner buys it.

If it's leagues that play out of bars, the bar owner or the owner of the company that provides the tables pay for it.

It's that simple

Do you think a bowling alley that has Brunswick lanes allows a new type of ball that ends up damaging the lanes or ball returns goes back to Brunswick and says you need to buy me new lanes cuz these balls are wrecking my equipment.....NO!!

The options are, a harder, more wear resistant pool ball material needs to be made or they need to ban the substance that is causing the damage. The BCAPL chose the latter.

Rules change all the time in every sport and sometimes they go back to what worked best when they find something new didn't work out like they thought.

It's called "Adapt and Overcome"

I post on here quite a bit, but sometimes when I read some of the crap that people come up with I wonder.......am I dumber for having read that?
 
If you have one of one piece phenolic ferrules/tips, I would cut the dome off so you have a flat surface and add a good WB tip to your existing shaft. Heck even the XBreaker could have the G10 cut off and replaced with a good WB tip just as you normally replace a tip. Keep the fiber pad in place. Or if you have a phenolic tip installed cut the phenolic tip down and leave a little of the phenolic in place as a pad and install a WB tip on that. I did something similar on an older break shaft I had but installed a SuperPro tip.

Of course I would recommend having a competent repairman doing the job.

If you have to buy a shaft then consider the OB Break shaft.

So many ways to skin a cat in this case with minimum cost.
 
Cuebacca said:
It's actually pretty simple; if someone prefers phenolic and the vast majority of their competitions allow phenolic, it makes sense that they would want to keep a phenolic tip on one of their shafts.
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It obvoiusly makes sense to keep a phenolic if you don't play in the BCAPL but if you do play in the BCAPL then it doesn't make sense. I guess unless you want to use a different stroke for each league. It makes more sense to me to master one stroke instead of two.

BVal
 
BVal said:
It obvoiusly makes sense to keep a phenolic if you don't play in the BCAPL but if you do play in the BCAPL then it doesn't make sense. I guess unless you want to use a different stroke for each league. It makes more sense to me to master one stroke instead of two.

BVal
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I agree!!:thumbup:
 
BVal said:
It obvoiusly makes sense to keep a phenolic if you don't play in the BCAPL but if you do play in the BCAPL then it doesn't make sense. I guess unless you want to use a different stroke for each league. It makes more sense to me to master one stroke instead of two.

BVal
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It really depends on more than just "if you play in the BCAPL" or not. I play in the BCAPL, but I would hardly let that define me as a pool player. Before I rush to chop off my break tip, I'd rather see how this plays out. If the other competitions I play in don't follow suit, I see no reason to throw out some of my gear at this time.

There are way too many variables already in this game to hope for just "one stroke to master". Even just switching from 9' Gold Crowns to 7' Diamonds requires the ability to adapt; one should be able to adjust various aspects of his game fairly quickly if he hopes to stay competitive under all the conditions we face as pool players.
 
Bann the phenolic and non leather anything... most phenolic especialy the ones that came from overseas chip and leave little pieces on the cloth causing to bals to roll eratict and the chips to cut the cloth. Most people dont break right they break down and drag the tip across trhe felt wearing it out faster and leaving a huge divit at the headstring line.

Name some pro's that use phenolic tips in one-pocket, 14.1, 3 cusion; it's mostly 7,8,9 ball that use it

I have a strong break but my 9 ball game sucks needs more practice but 8 ball and 1 pocket I play preety good.
 
I dont know any pros that use phenolic in 1 pocket or 14.1 most pros use them for breaking 7,8 and 9 ball only.

all the other games they use leather to play with and some use leather to break with.

ethier everyone go phenolic no leather on any cue or go leather ne phenolic on any cue this way the playing field is even... thoose with the best stroke win
 
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n10spool said:
Dave which part
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Of course those games mentioned will not use, nor need, phenolic tips. They do not need to power the break like rotation games plus you can shoot at any ball on the table, not just the lowest numbered ball so jumping would be at a minimum if it allowed at all. it just struck me funny that those games were mentioned as part of an argument. I should have used a funny face when I posted, something like this :wink: or :eek: or :confused:.

Sorry for the confusion.

Dave
 
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