Low Cost Cues under $100

[Flex]

Currently, I have three Schmelkes: all Sneaky-petes, one they made up for me as I wanted a birdseye maple forearm but otherwise it is their standard 12mm tipped sneaky. The other two were custom made for me by them and are also sneakies. All three of these cues are excellent, IMHO. However, they cost a bit more than $100 each. The first was $127, the second and third were $145 and $175 respectively.

Just the other day I bought a full-splice Adam cue, model AD-2, which lists at $100, but which I bought on eBay with a case, delivered, brand new, for $96. It hits great, and is very solid. Here's a link to the cue: http://www.theadamcueco.com/adamcue2.cfm

This morning I called Adam cue to find out if it is really a full-splice, because it sure has that full-splice feel to it, and they confirmed that it is a true full-splice.

Any of the abovementioned cues are just fine for me. The Adam cue looks very conventional; the sneakies aren't so sneaky anymore because two of them now have stack leather wraps.

Flex

 

[Mr. Wilson]

OUCH.........Dale Perry

 

[poolplayer2093]

Being a college student made me pretty familiar with cheaper end cues, and I have been looking all around for a cue that is good for around 100 and the schmelke is what I like the best. Unless you are spending about $200+ on a viking or mcdermott, the cue just doesn't feel as solid and smooth as the schmelke. Also, I say try it before you buy it. That is the reason why I try to stay away from buying cues online. For example, let's say you want to buy a $350 McDermott which is a pretty reasonable price, given you have four McDermotts, same weight, same shaft diameter and same tip size, just different models, they will all shoot different.

Than again, I don't know much and am a newbie, so just take it as MHO, There are plenty of AZ members that shoot with cues that cost more than my left arm.

+1 for Schmelke

Happy Shooting all!

Chino

you keep bringing up how smooth schmelky shafts are. is that all you're basing your opinion on?

the shaft could just need to be broken in

 

[JB Cases]

You can't get a quality stick from any of the ones one the list either.

Here we go again.

Define quality?

Seriously.

Lets see what your list of criteria is for quality and I can guarantee you to find more than one cue on that list that satisfies EVERY point that is not emotional or irrational. (like made in USA = quality).

To this day you and every other person who comes in and makes such a snipe FAILS to define what makes a quality pool cue. Why do you fail? Because you know that if you EVER were to come up with a definition of what a quality cue really is then you would be FORCED to east your words when someone puts one of these brands in your hands and it fulfills EVERY one of your criteria.

Put up your list - I will bet $1000 right now that I can buy one model of each of these cues at random so they don't get cherry picked and send them to an INDEPENDENT lab to be checked against your definition of quality and each of the cues will pass on almost every point.

UNLESS of course your definition of quality is that ONLY cues made from wood aged for a hundred years with just a half a hair's width taken off each year - in that case then 95% of cues made in America don't qualify either.

Ok, now come with your standard bash China rant.

 

[poolplayer2093]

Here we go again.

Define quality?

Seriously.

Lets see what your list of criteria is for quality and I can guarantee you to find more than one cue on that list that satisfies EVERY point that is not emotional or irrational. (like made in USA = quality).

To this day you and every other person who comes in and makes such a snipe FAILS to define what makes a quality pool cue. Why do you fail? Because you know that if you EVER were to come up with a definition of what a quality cue really is then you would be FORCED to east your words when someone puts one of these brands in your hands and it fulfills EVERY one of your criteria.

Put up your list - I will bet $1000 right now that I can buy one model of each of these cues at random so they don't get cherry picked and send them to an INDEPENDENT lab to be checked against your definition of quality and each of the cues will pass on almost every point.

UNLESS of course your definition of quality is that ONLY cues made from wood aged for a hundred years with just a half a hair's width taken off each year - in that case then 95% of cues made in America don't qualify either.

Ok, now come with your standard bash China rant.

for 1000 dollars i could find an "INDEPENDENT" lab that would side with me too.

most of the cues that the other guy listed just feel cheap. Don't try to make this all about made in usa or made in china man. i was just stating my opinion it's not personal.

if i had to pick a cheaper cue to play with it would be a lucasi. i stay away from mcdermotts and vikings. their low end models seem to be really low end

p.s. Buy american!

 

[JB Cases]

for 1000 dollars i could find an "INDEPENDENT" lab that would side with me too.

most of the cues that the other guy listed just feel cheap. Don't try to make this all about made in usa or made in china man. i was just stating my opinion it's not personal.

if i had to pick a cheaper cue to play with it would be a lucasi. i stay away from mcdermotts and vikings. their low end models seem to be really low end

p.s. Buy american!

And they "feel" expensive to me. Like I said I have $1000 to bet that any random cue from those brands will satisfy any list of quality criteria that can be listed for what makes a good cue.

 

[E-DogsNYC32]

Have to agree with an Adam cue

Currently, I have three Schmelkes: all Sneaky-petes, one they made up for me as I wanted a birdseye maple forearm but otherwise it is their standard 12mm tipped sneaky. The other two were custom made for me by them and are also sneakies. All three of these cues are excellent, IMHO. However, they cost a bit more than $100 each. The first was $127, the second and third were $145 and $175 respectively.

Just the other day I bought a full-splice Adam cue, model AD-2, which lists at $100, but which I bought on eBay with a case, delivered, brand new, for $96. It hits great, and is very solid. Here's a link to the cue: http://www.theadamcueco.com/adamcue2.cfm

This morning I called Adam cue to find out if it is really a full-splice, because it sure has that full-splice feel to it, and they confirmed that it is a true full-splice.

Any of the abovementioned cues are just fine for me. The Adam cue looks very conventional; the sneakies aren't so sneaky anymore because two of them now have stack leather wraps.

Flex

I have to agree with you Flex, I think Adam cues are a lot of cue for a little bit of money. I needed a bar cue to just shoot around with and to be honest with you, not only has it lived up to being that, but it has become my overall player. http://www.theadamcueco.com/adamcue4.cfm A very solid player with a classic design.... :thumbup:

 

[Mantool]

Here we go again.

Define quality?

Seriously.

Lets see what your list of criteria is for quality and I can guarantee you to find more than one cue on that list that satisfies EVERY point that is not emotional or irrational. (like made in USA = quality).

To this day you and every other person who comes in and makes such a snipe FAILS to define what makes a quality pool cue. Why do you fail? Because you know that if you EVER were to come up with a definition of what a quality cue really is then you would be FORCED to east your words when someone puts one of these brands in your hands and it fulfills EVERY one of your criteria.

Put up your list - I will bet $1000 right now that I can buy one model of each of these cues at random so they don't get cherry picked and send them to an INDEPENDENT lab to be checked against your definition of quality and each of the cues will pass on almost every point.

UNLESS of course your definition of quality is that ONLY cues made from wood aged for a hundred years with just a half a hair's width taken off each year - in that case then 95% of cues made in America don't qualify either.

Ok, now come with your standard bash China rant.

Nice post!
I live in a small town of 1500 people. The small town has a hardware store, furniture store and grocery store. The prices at these locations are a little higher than if you traveled the 15 miles to the larger city with a Walmart. I drive past this Walmart on a daily basis, but I still buy my needed items from the local small businesses. For me, it starts with buying local. On a grander scale, I prefer to buy American. I will always look for that route before I buy from say China. You have opened my eyes a bit to the almost "hatred" we have towards China. They are people trying to make a living just like we are. I am sure they make quality goods just like Americans. I just prefer to keep it local.
I am sticking with Schmelke.

 

[DaveK]

OUCH.........Dale Perry

:lmao: :rotflmao: :killingme:

But I must also do a write-in for Schmelke .... Dufferin Phantoms are also nice and still under $100.

Dave

 

[chin0]

you keep bringing up how smooth schmelky shafts are. is that all you're basing your opinion on?

the shaft could just need to be broken in

Maybe you are right, everyone is entitled to their opinion. I stood there at Art's Billiard supply for 2 hours (Not counting other countless hours I spent going up there to just try cues out) picking out cues and testing cues the other day with my brother. Shooting Vikings, McDermotts, Schmelkes, Cuetecs (Ewww), Players, Fury, GW and like two other lower end brands that I forgot. This store carries Meucci, Mezz, they had a few Predators, a Schon and a Jacoby cue up there as well, but I didn't test them because it was out of my price range.

I was looking at cues for 250 and lower because my brother doesn't shoot much, he is just doing it because he sees me doing it and want to find something to do with me. I tested almost every McDermott and Viking in that price range, regardless of shaft diameter or weight. In the price range of 100, a Viking or McDermott's shaft just doesn't feel as good to me as a schmelke shaft. I also find the schmelke to have a more solid hit. That is my personal opinion as I have stated over and over again. I don't have money for $1000+ cues . So I don't know what shooting a cheap cue feels like, because upgrading from a crooked cockeyed bar cue to my Schmelke feels a world's difference, but if you are trying to compare a Ginacue, Szamboti, or black boar to my Schmelke, that is an unfair comparison. Maybe the feel I get right now from my schmelke is a cheap feel in your book., but it feels pretty damn good in my hand taking that I only paid $100 for it as an entry cue, you get what I am trying to say here?

Everyone on here has their own opinion on what is a good shooting cue and etc, some will like a Viking better, and in your case Lucasi is your choice. To answer your question, with my above paragraph, I would have to say no, I don't just base my opinion on the Schmelke or because it is my main shooter. That's like asking me, "Hey I have a Scruggs here and your Schmelke here, both same weight, same diameter shaft, same size tip, same length, which one do you want?" Of course I am picking the Scruggs, no question asked about it, I try not to bias my opinion and just say it as it is and give people my best point of view on the situation at hand based on my personal experience.

I am not the only one on here stating that for 100 they would pick a Schmelke over the other brands. There is no right or wrong answer here. Also, what do you mean by breaking in a shaft? Can you give me a bit more information on that, because I am pretty new and don't really know what the difference would be between a new shaft compare to one that is broken in. Thanks

Now, my question is, what is a good J/B cue for around $100 or a bit over? What is the difference with a phenolic tip and etc? I am aiming for a 20oz break cue, I don't really jump balls, but a lot of people told me, just get it, at least you will have it when you need it. What all should I pay attention to with a J/B cue?

Thanks all, happy shooting!

Chino

 

[JB Cases]

Nice post!
I live in a small town of 1500 people. The small town has a hardware store, furniture store and grocery store. The prices at these locations are a little higher than if you traveled the 15 miles to the larger city with a Walmart. I drive past this Walmart on a daily basis, but I still buy my needed items from the local small businesses. For me, it starts with buying local. On a grander scale, I prefer to buy American. I will always look for that route before I buy from say China. You have opened my eyes a bit to the almost "hatred" we have towards China. They are people trying to make a living just like we are. I am sure they make quality goods just like Americans. I just prefer to keep it local.
I am sticking with Schmelke.

I absolutely agree with you. I prefer to buy local and support local business wherever possible.

The thread isn't about who to support though. To me this is like if someone comes on and say which cue should I choose, JossWest or Bender and some body pipes up and goes, neither one, both suck, buy a Sugartree.

My only contention is that if you are going to say something doesn't have quality then define what the criteria are. I do that in cases and invite everyone to check my cases, their cases, and any cases against my list. If I came on here though and said so-and-so's cases are poor quality and gave no reason then there would be 20 people jumping down my throat about it.

Shmelke, McDermott, Viking, Pechauer, Schon, Huebler, Jacoby, and many many more are all fantastic companies with great products.

But that wasn't the question that was asked. The question was which of these five brands provide the best quality for less than $100.

My personal choice among those brands is Fury for the few models we have under $100.

I would have added Sterling as well to the list. Sterling has a $59 full splice sneaky pete that I will put up against any one else's in terms of value for the money. It doesn't have the sweet hit of my Scruggs sneaky pete but it damn sure works well enough to play high level pool with it.

Sterling has like 80 cues under $100 that are all great values for the money. Here is a list http://www.cuesight.com/sticksunder100.html

And, when any of these cues are purchased then the bulk of money goes toward the support of 18+ American families plus the families of the American dealers selling the cue and the families of the shipping company's employees who brought you the cue. What you do with the money you saved by purchasing this cue is up to you but I am sure it will get spent on someone somehow.

 

[rackem]

Write in Vote

My favorite cue for under $100 are these. :thumbup: :woot:

 

[poolplayer2093]

And they "feel" expensive to me. Like I said I have $1000 to bet that any random cue from those brands will satisfy any list of quality criteria that can be listed for what makes a good cue.

What's up with you man? you take all this stuff so personal. just because your a manager for some chinese sweat shop doesn't mean you have to defend their products to the death.

the 2 brands i said feel cheap were american cues. the shaft wood they use for their lower end cues is whipy (that's what i meant by cheap).

i live in america man. that means me like most americans i don't have an extra thousand dollars to throw at a bet to prove a point of view.

 

[poolplayer2093]

Maybe you are right, everyone is entitled to their opinion. I stood there at Art's Billiard supply for 2 hours (Not counting other countless hours I spent going up there to just try cues out) picking out cues and testing cues the other day with my brother. Shooting Vikings, McDermotts, Schmelkes, Cuetecs (Ewww), Players, Fury, GW and like two other lower end brands that I forgot. This store carries Meucci, Mezz, they had a few Predators, a Schon and a Jacoby cue up there as well, but I didn't test them because it was out of my price range.

I was looking at cues for 250 and lower because my brother doesn't shoot much, he is just doing it because he sees me doing it and want to find something to do with me. I tested almost every McDermott and Viking in that price range, regardless of shaft diameter or weight. In the price range of 100, a Viking or McDermott's shaft just doesn't feel as good to me as a schmelke shaft. I also find the schmelke to have a more solid hit. That is my personal opinion as I have stated over and over again. I don't have money for $1000+ cues . So I don't know what shooting a cheap cue feels like, because upgrading from a crooked cockeyed bar cue to my Schmelke feels a world's difference, but if you are trying to compare a Ginacue, Szamboti, or black boar to my Schmelke, that is an unfair comparison. Maybe the feel I get right now from my schmelke is a cheap feel in your book., but it feels pretty damn good in my hand taking that I only paid $100 for it as an entry cue, you get what I am trying to say here?

Everyone on here has their own opinion on what is a good shooting cue and etc, some will like a Viking better, and in your case Lucasi is your choice. To answer your question, with my above paragraph, I would have to say no, I don't just base my opinion on the Schmelke or because it is my main shooter. That's like asking me, "Hey I have a Scruggs here and your Schmelke here, both same weight, same diameter shaft, same size tip, same length, which one do you want?" Of course I am picking the Scruggs, no question asked about it, I try not to bias my opinion and just say it as it is and give people my best point of view on the situation at hand based on my personal experience.

I am not the only one on here stating that for 100 they would pick a Schmelke over the other brands. There is no right or wrong answer here. Also, what do you mean by breaking in a shaft? Can you give me a bit more information on that, because I am pretty new and don't really know what the difference would be between a new shaft compare to one that is broken in. Thanks

Now, my question is, what is a good J/B cue for around $100 or a bit over? What is the difference with a phenolic tip and etc? I am aiming for a 20oz break cue, I don't really jump balls, but a lot of people told me, just get it, at least you will have it when you need it. What all should I pay attention to with a J/B cue?

Thanks all, happy shooting!

Chino

i don't have a problem with schmelki. sorry if i came off like i did. a guy i know bought one,bocote (under a hundo) and it played well.

i have no problem with lover value cues (value being $). i've just noticed that viking and mcdermotts that're on the low end of that scale seem to scream low value when hitting balls with 'em.

it's really hit or miss when picking up production cues. i've ran into production cues that play better than any SW i've hit balls with.

when i said the shaft might need breaking in i was talking a bout how after playing with a shaft for a while the oils from your hands and chalk start to coat the shaft. imo shafts seem to feel better after this happens

if you're looking for a cheaper J/B i'd go with a J&J. that's the most bang for the buck

 

[JB Cases]

What's up with you man? you take all this stuff so personal. just because your a manager for some chinese sweat shop doesn't mean you have to defend their products to the death.

the 2 brands i said feel cheap were american cues. the shaft wood they use for their lower end cues is whipy (that's what i meant by cheap).

i live in america man. that means me like most americans i don't have an extra thousand dollars to throw at a bet to prove a point of view.

Let's see, you tell me not to take it personally in the same sentence that you insult me in. How is that supposed to work? In America you pay to sweat in China we pay people to sweat.

Seriously though you don't get it. All I ever care about is the quality. I wouldn't say a word if I didn't believe in what we sell and I wouldn't sell it if I didn't believe in it.

You don't have to bet a thousand. In fact I will pay you $100 to come up with a list of points that we all can agree on make a quality cue.

Start a new thread and show us that you can define what a quality cue is.

My only criteria is that you use points that can be felt and judged by the average person who has your list in his or her hand.

In other words saying a quality cue is only one that has aged shaft wood from the easternmost windward side of Lake Superior is something that is impossible for a consumer to know if it's true or not just by picking up the cue.

This is my living, I take it personally when people make comments that are untrue about the things I sell. Make true statements and back them up and then there isn't any argument. But I have spent two years here inspecting cues, testing cues, helping to make an already great cue factory better. And I am the least knowledgeable of the people who contributed which includes a long line of great cuemakers that have been here to teach these folks how to build good cues.

It's well known for example that Bill Stroud was paid to consult with the factory that makes Lucasi and Players cues. I can tell you that well known, respected, and long time cue makers who currently make some of the world's best cues have contributed to our factory's current expertise.

So, yeah, I take it really personal when anyone craps on my profession without facts.

I guess I will quit being defensive when others quit being offensive.

 

[chin0]

i don't have a problem with schmelki. sorry if i came off like i did. a guy i know bought one,bocote (under a hundo) and it played well.

i have no problem with lover value cues (value being $). i've just noticed that viking and mcdermotts that're on the low end of that scale seem to scream low value when hitting balls with 'em.

it's really hit or miss when picking up production cues. i've ran into production cues that play better than any SW i've hit balls with.

when i said the shaft might need breaking in i was talking a bout how after playing with a shaft for a while the oils from your hands and chalk start to coat the shaft. imo shafts seem to feel better after this happens

if you're looking for a cheaper J/B i'd go with a J&J. that's the most bang for the buck

I wasn't offended, I was just trying to explain why I picked the schmelke just in case others are confused by the quality of a schmelke. A lower value/lower end viking and mcdermott does hit pretty "weird" I have to say, and as far as breaking in. I haven't had the time to shoot enough to get much chalk and oil on the shaft of my schmelke as of now. I like the way it feels right now, still very slick and smooth from factory and doesn't cause friction like some other lower end cues.

Thanks for the tip on J&J J/B The prices there are really reasonable and I am thinking about the Panther Jump Break. Phenolic furrel and tip is a plus. Any experience or heard any about it?

Thanks

Chino

 

[Mr. Wilson]

My favorite cue for under $100 are these. :thumbup: :woot:


View attachment 87577

I have one of Jeff's #8 pictured and it is not too bad at all. Well constructed and plays well for what it is.

 

[poolplayer2093]

I wasn't offended, I was just trying to explain why I picked the schmelke just in case others are confused by the quality of a schmelke. A lower value/lower end viking and mcdermott does hit pretty "weird" I have to say, and as far as breaking in. I haven't had the time to shoot enough to get much chalk and oil on the shaft of my schmelke as of now. I like the way it feels right now, still very slick and smooth from factory and doesn't cause friction like some other lower end cues.

Thanks for the tip on J&J J/B The prices there are really reasonable and I am thinking about the Panther Jump Break. Phenolic furrel and tip is a plus. Any experience or heard any about it?

Thanks

Chino

i actually get better results with a leather tip, but that could just be me. i bought a friend of mine a j&j for christmas and it breaks like a freight train!

i've never heard of panther. can you post a link to where you found it? if you've tried it and like it i think you should go for it. with the j&j though even if you don't like it it'll be easy to get your cash back out of it

 

[poolplayer2093]

I wasn't offended, I was just trying to explain why I picked the schmelke just in case others are confused by the quality of a schmelke. A lower value/lower end viking and mcdermott does hit pretty "weird" I have to say, and as far as breaking in. I haven't had the time to shoot enough to get much chalk and oil on the shaft of my schmelke as of now. I like the way it feels right now, still very slick and smooth from factory and doesn't cause friction like some other lower end cues.

Thanks for the tip on J&J J/B The prices there are really reasonable and I am thinking about the Panther Jump Break. Phenolic furrel and tip is a plus. Any experience or heard any about it?

Thanks

Chino

i actually get better results with a leather tip, but that could just be me. i bought a friend of mine a j&j for christmas and it breaks like a freight train!

i've never heard of panther. can you post a link to where you found it? if you've tried it and like it i think you should go for it. with the j&j though even if you don't like it it'll be easy to get your cash back out of it

 

[poolplayer2093]

I wasn't offended, I was just trying to explain why I picked the schmelke just in case others are confused by the quality of a schmelke. A lower value/lower end viking and mcdermott does hit pretty "weird" I have to say, and as far as breaking in. I haven't had the time to shoot enough to get much chalk and oil on the shaft of my schmelke as of now. I like the way it feels right now, still very slick and smooth from factory and doesn't cause friction like some other lower end cues.

Thanks for the tip on J&J J/B The prices there are really reasonable and I am thinking about the Panther Jump Break. Phenolic furrel and tip is a plus. Any experience or heard any about it?

Thanks

Chino

i actually get better results with a leather tip, but that could just be me. i bought a friend of mine a j&j for christmas and it breaks like a freight train!

i've never heard of panther. can you post a link to where you found it? if you've tried it and like it i think you should go for it. with the j&j though even if you don't like it it'll be easy to get your cash back out of it