Marking Your Home Table

RobustBrad

Looking to play in CO
Silver Member
Hey all,

Did a search on only found a few things about marking tables. Do any of you mark your tables at home? I read a few things about using permanent marker, but am a little reluctant to do it without knowing what others are using /doing.

I've seen a few tables that have the grid lines drawn out on them. My home table gets used by me for practice 95% of the time with the other 5% going to having company over and shooting a few games.

Cheers,
Brad
 
Hey all,

Did a search on only found a few things about marking tables. Do any of you mark your tables at home? I read a few things about using permanent marker, but am a little reluctant to do it without knowing what others are using /doing.

I've seen a few tables that have the grid lines drawn out on them. My home table gets used by me for practice 95% of the time with the other 5% going to having company over and shooting a few games.

Cheers,
Brad

My mechanic used a Magic Market on my Simonis to mark the spot. I'd like to get one of those laser spots that attach to the ceiling. Traditional sticker spots on Simonis create a bump that interferes with ball movement.
 
My mechanic used a Magic Market on my Simonis to mark the spot. I'd like to get one of those laser spots that attach to the ceiling. Traditional sticker spots on Simonis create a bump that interferes with ball movement.

Yeah I noticed the sticker interfering sometimes on my 860 cloth as well.
 
RobustBrad...Go to a tailor shop or a place that does alterations, and ask for tailor's chalk. It looks something like a little candle. You can mark your table as a grid, if you want, and it won't be detrimental to the cloth, or permanent. It works well. The other thing you can use is hole reinforcements. Use them to set up exact repeatable shots to practice. They stick to your cloth, but don't leave any gum residue on the cloth. You buy them at any office supply store.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

Hey all,

Did a search on only found a few things about marking tables. Do any of you mark your tables at home? I read a few things about using permanent marker, but am a little reluctant to do it without knowing what others are using /doing.

I've seen a few tables that have the grid lines drawn out on them. My home table gets used by me for practice 95% of the time with the other 5% going to having company over and shooting a few games.

Cheers,
Brad
 
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get a white pencil they use on snooker tables, google a search for a snooker supply company in the UK and buy 2 or 3 of them. Problem solved.
 
The traditional spot is not only used to mark the cloth but also protect it. on the break, the head ball is driven down with a lot of force and friction which will wear the cloth. We see holes worn thru cloths at the spot area in high use rooms when they only mark the table.

Simonis has their own spots which are much thinner then the traditional spots. We always recommend keeping a spot on the table and replacing
periodically.
 
RobustBrad...Go to a tailor shop or a place that does alterations, and ask for tailor's chalk. It looks something like a little candle. You can mark your table as a grid, if you want, and it won't be detrimental to the cloth, or permanent. It works well. The other thing you can use is hole reinforcements. Use them to set up exact repeatable shots to practice. They stick to your cloth, but don't leave any gum residue on the cloth. You buy them at any office supply store.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

:thumbup2: :thumbup:
 
The traditional spot is not only used to mark the cloth but also protect it. on the break, the head ball is driven down with a lot of force and friction which will wear the cloth. We see holes worn thru cloths at the spot area in high use rooms when they only mark the table.

Simonis has their own spots which are much thinner then the traditional spots. We always recommend keeping a spot on the table and replacing
periodically.


What he said, you can count on a hole in your cloth if your games of preference require hard breaking and you don't use a spot at your rack. 3M makes a spray adhesive. Just a touch of that on the backside of the spot before placing it does wonders. A spot on the headstring is not as important.
 
I have the grid pattern marked on my home table. I used an ultra fine permanent marker and it has worked fine It is the first thing I do after refelting my table.
 
The traditional spot is not only used to mark the cloth but also protect it. on the break, the head ball is driven down with a lot of force and friction which will wear the cloth. We see holes worn thru cloths at the spot area in high use rooms when they only mark the table.

Simonis has their own spots which are much thinner then the traditional spots. We always recommend keeping a spot on the table and replacing
periodically.

What says Scruffy1...I play mainly rotation games and I need to change my spot about every 3 Mos, as it develops a pronounced divot from the base of the head ball being driven downward from my massively muscled man mashing.
 
The traditional spot is not only used to mark the cloth but also protect it. on the break, the head ball is driven down with a lot of force and friction which will wear the cloth. We see holes worn thru cloths at the spot area in high use rooms when they only mark the table.

Simonis has their own spots which are much thinner then the traditional spots. We always recommend keeping a spot on the table and replacing
periodically.

I didn't want to have the spot because I thought it interfered with the balls. Just as you wrote the head ball wore a hole through the cloth. Learned the hard way.
 
Marking

Our local room added a very light straight line from head ball to rail. Helps line up rack and gives nice line for spotted balls in one pocket. Don't like the thick spot patches commonly used for head ball. Someone said they make very thin snooker spots, that would be better. Think I would prefer a white line better than a dark line.
 
Simonis has their own spots which are much thinner then the traditional spots. We always recommend keeping a spot on the table and replacing
periodically.

WHERE can one buy the mythical Simonis table spot? I needed spots for my table at home and ended up ordering Master Spots because I could not find anywhere online to buy the Simonis ones....

Brian
 
I have the grid pattern marked on my home table. I used an ultra fine permanent marker and it has worked fine It is the first thing I do after refelting my table.

This is what I did. I wonder why anyone would want to do temporary marks ... then you'd just have to do it again when the marks wear off ... sounds silly to me. I have a small dot (1-2mm-ish) at the intersection of each diamond. They are hardly noticeable, but very handy for setting up specific practice shots.

Walter, lay off the heavy weights for a while and save those poor helpless spots !

Dave
 
This is what I did. I wonder why anyone would want to do temporary marks ... then you'd just have to do it again when the marks wear off ... sounds silly to me. I have a small dot (1-2mm-ish) at the intersection of each diamond. They are hardly noticeable, but very handy for setting up specific practice shots.

Walter, lay off the heavy weights for a while and save those poor helpless spots !

Dave
No can do, m-man.
I play so poorly that I have to make at least 2 when I break...and that is for 1-pocket!:embarrassed2:
 
I place a small x on all of the intersections of th table where the diamonds would meet if they extended across the table onto the cloth. To measure these, I use a leveling laser and a straight edge.. Creates the grid with only small marks on the table. I use a typical #2 pencil, I have blue simonis cloth an dit shows up just fine.. YMMV
 
Are you referring to marking the cloth for drills or for alignment of the rack?
I have snapped chalk lines form corner to corner for drills when I was young and serious about the game. It doesn't take long to wear it in to where you can see the line even after the chalk is vacuumed off the table. I didn't have a straight edge more than four feet long or I'd have used a fat ball point pen.
 
No permanent lines or marks, but for temporary marks for drills and such I just stole a couple pieces of regular old chalk from one of my kids. Easy to see, no bumps, and seems to be easy enough to clean away.
 
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