metal lathe or cue lathe?

Trent said:
metal lathe if you have room do it you wont regret it.
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I am with you, if the guy has the room that is the best way to go. I have a Porper B, and Porper Repair lathe and I certainly love both of them. But I am also in the process of shoping for Metal Lathe to fill the gap for some operations such as threading and making my own Pin's and others parts I currently buy.

By the way, I the cues in the thread you started that are almost finished looked great, I would be willing to bet they will sell as quickly as they are finished, if they are not already sold.

Take care
 
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Guerra Cues said:
Well... Unless I am missing something here... I have not seen a metal lathe yet without threading capabilities. You will need a router mount for the tool post in order to be able to accomplish that as well.

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Lathes without thread gears do exist. Some just have power feeds.
Routers are only used to thread wood and some plastics .
Tool bits are used on metals.
You can use tool bits to thread wood too.
 
A lathe with digit readout, more than 32mm spindle bore and something with 36 inches between centres. A quick change gearbox makes life alot easier than having to change gears for every thread choice. Check that it has the capability to power feed in both directions, cross-slide power feed is not essential , but some find the cross-slide feed the only way to get a good finish when facing, I have never had that problem and choose to use manual cross feeds.
It is nicer to have a machine that does not use the leadscrew for the carriage power feed.
If you have 3 phase in your shop , buy a 3 phase machine. It allows you to almost instant reverse, which is invaluable when thread cutting internal or external.
 
Send me some pictures of it and I will let you know your options.
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Wow, you're lucky Joe. This is the second time Chris has offered to help someone that hasn't purchased anything from him. Think of the great customer service you might receive if you bought one of his lathes.
 
manwon said:
By the way, I the cues in the thread you started that are almost finished looked great, I would be willing to bet they will sell as quickly as they are finished, if they are not already sold.Take care
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was this for me or the OP???
 
Joe, if you get a cue lathe that has a wood mounting board, make sure there is warranty on it. Other wise if it warps on you, thats the nature of wood, you know.
 
I have both and could not do without either . Both have there purpases . Cue lathe 1st followed up with big heavy lathe . Jim
 
JoeyInCali said:
Lathes without thread gears do exist. Some just have power feeds.
Routers are only used to thread wood and some plastics .
Tool bits are used on metals.
You can use tool bits to thread wood too.
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Those lathes are no good if you want to do threading...
Threading wood with bits only hard woods like ebony and alike, everything else use a router... But I guess that you know that right :rolleyes:
 
GEBrown said:
Ummm . . My name is not Joey, but I see little to drool over - only one description gives the center to center distance and 18" isn't enough.

My 2 cents,

Gary
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It's not made of turning between centers longer than that .
It's made for precision manufacturing of small parts.
Falcon had a copy of that machine, a Feeler.
It was modified to hold butts for pin installation.
I believe Dan Janes sold them the machine.
Go to 3:30" mark on this video and start drooling .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adUbpn7WZYA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUt3P2_lfm0
Threading is done with a die on that one.
 
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GEBrown said:
Ummm . . My name is not Joey, but I see little to drool over - only one description gives the center to center distance and 18" isn't enough.

My 2 cents,

Gary
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Just to put things into perspective a 9 x 18 Hardinge can weigh 1500 lbs. A 9 x 18 Jet weights 235 lbs. Then there is the Monarch 10EE, another 10x20 lathe, but that one is about 3000 lbs :eek:.

Dave
 
older equipment and new... weight v/s vibration

Hello,
I read a pool related article about old equipment being better than new equipment a long while back. I believe the article was on a review of Mr. Bludworths shop. Anyway, the article basically said that the heavier the framework, the less vibrations you tend to have as far as tendencies for chatter during certain operations.
The author was commenting on the quality of the output on the "older" equipment versus what he has seen in the newer more modern versions with lighter framework. I do not recall what exact machine it was though. I want to say that it was some sort of shaft tapering machine adopted over from something else.
Could it be that the lathes mentioned in the previous posts are "precision" because of the beefier frames?
There is a significant weight difference mentioned with the lighter JET lathe.
It goes along with the idea of enclosing and filling in the frame of a wood turners lathe with concrete to reduce deflections / vibrations in the frame.
It seems like a logical correlation to me anyway.
Any thoughts from you guys??
 
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