Moori

Thanks. That's what I thought. All of the best players that I've ever seen have the tip trimmed way down, almost to the ferrule, to where there's only about a dime, or nickel's width left. :eek: Maybe that's so they can get maximum feel, english?
 
trueblu8 said:
Thanks. That's what I thought. All of the best players that I've ever seen have the tip trimmed way down, almost to the ferrule, to where there's only about a dime, or nickel's width left. :eek: Maybe that's so they can get maximum feel, english?
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I don't see many quite THAT thin but trimming quite a bit is an excellent idea for the sake of consistency...at the cost of more frequent replacement.

I have about 1/3 of mine whacked off...BUT...I have been told that the heat generated by doing so can cause delamination problems.

I usually have my tips replaced by Joe Blackburn at the DCC every year and he takes his time trimming so I've never had any problems personally.

Regards,
Jim
 
av84fun said:
I don't see many quite THAT thin but trimming quite a bit is an excellent idea for the sake of consistency...at the cost of more frequent replacement.

I have about 1/3 of mine whacked off...BUT...I have been told that the heat generated by doing so can cause delamination problems.

I usually have my tips replaced by Joe Blackburn at the DCC every year and he takes his time trimming so I've never had any problems personally.

Regards,
Jim
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Hello Jim, I replace around 40 to 50 tips a month around half are different types of layered tips. Now many players like their tips taken down at least half way, some more. I personally have know problem with tips delaminating due to taking them down, unless the tip was bad in the first place. Since I started using my Durometer to test all tips before application, all most all those problems have disappeared.

The biggest problem with turning down layered tips is the speed that you take them down at. If you you spin the lathe too fast it will certainly heat-up the leather and glue and cause delamination, but any good repairman or cue maker certainly knows this and would avoid it.

Hope this helps Jim.
 
You can sit there and say that 60 bucks installed is greedy *BUT* I was here in Japan at that time and everyone I know in the States that does cue repairs was asking me to get Moori's for them, because I'm here where they're made, and I gotta tell ya, I couldn't get them. The ones I did come across from time to time went quickly. No, I didn't make a profit off of them, that's not my style.

If anyone is looking for Moori tips let me know and I'll take a look around for you.
MULLY
 
yoyodude9000 said:
Has anyone tried hard? I was told the hard makes you mis cue a lot?
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I sent an I2 shaft back to McDermott for their warranty service. I got an email saying that the soft and medium moori had a worldwide shortage, and they could put the moori hard on it or go with the triangle. I opted for the moori hard and so far I really like the feel of it. A much livlier hit than the medium. I am still getting used to the feel, but I might switch my other I2 to the hard as well.
I just got the cue back on Friday, and I have miscued twice, both times while trying to get some power draw. I was hitting to low on the ball and the edge of the tip has no give to it. I am using less tip worth of english and getting very good results.

So far I am a believer. I think I'll do a side by side with the 2 I2 shafts and see how much difference I can feel between the medium and the hard tip.

Banger
 
The Kamui might be a good tip but for me I have been playing with Moori for better than 20 years. I would not like to change. I have tried all the tips (except Kamui) and for me the soft Moori is perfect for my style of playing. If I change it is because I didn't want to.
 
Moori Tips

I haven't talked to him in awhile, but, Chuck White at Cue Time Billiards in Sebring, Florida has been an excellent supplier of Moori's for years. Usually has a good supply on hand and fair prices. Great guy to deal with.
 
trueblu8 said:
Time to switch to Kamui's! or possibly sniper's. I'm anxious to try the Kamui myself.

Hey I don't wanna hijack this thread, but when you guys DO put a tip on like the Kamui, do you leave a big ass chunk of tip on there like the guy in the Kamui video, or do you trim it down?
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I trim my tips down to about like they have in the pic on the right.

EDIT: If they are still handmade I could see a shortage as it would take a while to produce them.
 
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mr8ball said:
Myself i think it is a ripoff to charge that kind of money to put a tip on. It only takes all of 5 minutes to do. I can get tips for about $15.00 a piece and i would never charge anyone 45 bucks just to install it. People that charge that kind of money are just greedy (JMHO)
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And people that pay that amount are greedy, too. Imagine getting a tip that one wants!!!! Evil, pure evil!!!!!!!!!!

Jeff Livingston
 
I just bought and received 10 Mooris from Matty in the W/FS forum for $90shipped. I've bought from him several times reliably.
:p
 
about the tip delaminating...i never had that problem cuz i do everything by hand. just take a razor and cut it down roughly then shape with sandpaper. i can get it to a perfect dime radius pretty easily. doesnt heat anything up and it stays perfect.
 
As for Mooris from Matty: I am waiting for mines too! I ordered myself a Hard and the other 9 have sold rather fast. [by the way Matty is a great guy to do business with].

Whenever I am shaping my tip I use sandpaper only and that is just perfect.
 
gulyassy said:
It was about 8 or 9 years ago before Atlas had a distributorship for Moori. They were almost impossible to get. I was getting them from Germany. My connection would fly in to a nearby airport and get me 20 or 30 tins of tips. I would hand off the money and we had a very lucrative business. I was selling the tins for $500.00 to $750.00 sometimes even $1000.00 a tin and could not get enough. When they were not available they were being installed at the Super Expo for $60.00 apiece. I remember when Ted had 100's of shafts that required Moori tips. I had several but Ted was the man at the Expo back when it first started. I remember him working almost every hour of everyday and he had to stay after the show ended to finish most of the Moori work. Back then the Japanese cue dealers would bring tins of Moori tips and use them as money, they were more like gold. People used to pay whatever the person wanted because there were no alternative tips, no Hercules or Sniper or Talisman. It was a different pool world back then. Imagine only 2 cue repairmen at the Super Expo with 10,000 players. I remember back 20 years ago when the Moori first came over to the US and cue makers talked of a tip that brought $40 or $50. I thought that there could not be a tip better than a La Pro or a Triangle.
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This is 100% true. I used to work with Ted in his booths. They were so valuable,I remeber carefully cutting off a Moori for Karen Corr to put on another shaft of hers. The reason she wanted to cut it off is because she gave us the wrong shaft to install it on. Karen needed a break tip instead of a Moori on the shaft she gave us. She popped the Moori into her case pocket and off she went.

We worked non stop, grabbing a bite or two while a tip dried. It was crazy!

Gene
 
Thanks! That's exactly what Joe Blackburn told me.

Great minds...

(-:

Jim

manwon said:
Hello Jim, I replace around 40 to 50 tips a month around half are different types of layered tips. Now many players like their tips taken down at least half way, some more. I personally have know problem with tips delaminating due to taking them down, unless the tip was bad in the first place. Since I started using my Durometer to test all tips before application, all most all those problems have disappeared.

The biggest problem with turning down layered tips is the speed that you take them down at. If you you spin the lathe too fast it will certainly heat-up the leather and glue and cause delamination, but any good repairman or cue maker certainly knows this and would avoid it.

Hope this helps Jim.
Click to expand...
 
I think that $15.00 for installation is a fair price. $25.00 should be the correct charge for a Moori. This is what I have charged in my shop for the last 5 years. $10.00 for La Pro & Triangle, now this is a bargain.
 
One thing I love about Japan, they only charge for the tip. A Moori goes for about 15 dollars, roughly with the exchange rate, and that's all they charge. You buy the tip, they put it on.
MULLY
I do my own tips though
 
mullyman said:
One thing I love about Japan, they only charge for the tip. A Moori goes for about 15 dollars, roughly with the exchange rate, and that's all they charge. You buy the tip, they put it on.
MULLY
I do my own tips though
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Same in China. A few months ago I bought a Moori tip here and the guy at the poolroom put it on with nothing more than glue and a file and it was as perfect as any tip I have ever done or ever had done by anyone else.

Here in China even the rack girls are taught how to put on tips by hand and they do a great job for the most part. In most of the pool rooms I go to the tips on the house cues, which are all pro-tapered 2 piece cues, are generally in great shape.

I remember ten years ago how crazy it was with Mooris. I came to Japan for the Japan open in 1998 and all I could get were 2 tins. A lot of Americans were there trying to buy Mooris and we were all limited to 2 tins.

Hideo Moori definitely started a revolution.
 
crappoolguy said:
$45 for installation? Ripoff.
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Probably, but let's not forget that price might also include a shaft cleaning and possible smoothing and burnishing, waxing or sealing;) :cool:
 
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