mr. clean magic eraser - shaft cleaning

I use Magic Eraser selectively, and even micowave a piece real hot, and lightly moist.
Then I may hit it with a little 600 and use various waxes and sealers.
Sometimes I also do 9-steps of Micro Mesh from 1500 to 12000, which puts a nice O'natural finish.
If it is an old shaft with a nice patina I don't use Magic Eraser.

Is that you Ted?
Sounds like Doug is using your computer.
I use a generic magic eraser also. I use it dry. Then I burnish with a piece of leather. Takes about 5 minutes, unlike the above process.
 
I see several advocates for magic erasers but I found on a thread a couple years ago someone using the fast orange cleaner (can get for about $2 per bottle) to be very good. No water or alcohol required.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Permatex-15-oz-pumice-hand-cleaner/_/N-25uk?itemIdentifier=503185&_requestid=2681681

The hair product discussed is hair polish, see link

http://www.walgreens.com/store/c/fantasia-ic-hair-polisher-liquid/ID=prod402595-product#descriptionNamedTab

for sanding, I like the cue smooth papers because of size and convenience but some 600/1500/3000 grit sand paper will also suffice. I have always got great compliments when cleaning/smoothing someone's shaft for them and it is very inexpensive!
 
Is that you Ted?
Sounds like Doug is using your computer.
I use a generic magic eraser also. I use it dry. Then I burnish with a piece of leather. Takes about 5 minutes, unlike the above process.

I learned from the best (and the slowest)
We're like a bunch of maaaad scientists, and it's a dynamic process.
Six Sigma has nothing on us.
 
I use Magic Eraser selectively, and even micowave a piece real hot, and lightly moist.
Then I may hit it with a little 600 and use various waxes and sealers.
Sometimes I also do 9-steps of Micro Mesh from 1500 to 12000, which puts a nice O'natural finish.
If it is an old shaft with a nice patina I don't use Magic Eraser.

Dang Ted you got it down brother. How`s the new cue lathe treating you?
Sounds like your having fun with it buddy.
 
I had read somewhere about using the mr. clean magic eraser for cleaning your cue shaft. I decided to give it a try & wow, did it do an awesome job! I dampened it, squeezed out the excess water and cleaned the shaft and ferrule, then wiped down with a cotton cloth. I could not believe the grime and build up that was on my shaft, which, within seconds, is now like new!

Before I sing the praises too much, I would be interested in opinions of other members as to using this to clean your cue as opposed to products made specifically for this purpose.

- Steve

Use 91% rubbing alcohol. It works dynamite.
 
Hi Steve:

Careful with using water with the Magic Eraser. Since you're actually removing the "protective" grime on the cue, the water's effect of raising the wood fibers is accentuated. Hence the "mossy" feeling you get that you have to then sand down. Do this enough times, and you'll actually create pits in the wood where the fibers lifted up and were sanded-off.

It's much better to use denatured alcohol with the Magic Eraser. (Denatured alcohol, for those not familiar, is anhydrous alcohol -- alcohol without water. It's used as fuel for alcohol stoves, to thin shellac, and as a cleaning solvent. It will NOT damage the glue holding the laminations of the shaft together, like lighter fluid [which was often recommended in the past to clean the shaft]. You can get denatured alcohol at any orange box [Home Depot] or any hardware store. It's very inexpensive.)

Just FYI,
-Sean

Tap Tap, this post is an example of the best of the AZ Forums, when real world information is imparted for all to see and learn from. This entire thread is stock full of valuable information. Good job to all.

P.S. Just to put a damper on all this acknowledgment, I like my shaft kind of down and dirty, well used and dark and grimy looking :smile:. I don't know what's wrong with me, guess I'm just a sick pool player. :rolleyes:

One thing I do is keep my shaft as smooth as possible, like glass. It's not hard to do either. I don't care if the shaft wood has darkened, as long as it's a good solid piece of wood, being dirty won't hurt the performance. I CAN'T stand any dings on my shaft. It MUST be silky smooth! If I get a dent somehow (shit happens) I will take it out of play until I can remove it.

Scotchbrite - breakfast of champions!
 
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Jay, I'm with you. My shaft has some slight coloration in it, I'm not too worried about it but I do want it smooth.

As mentioned in a prior post, I use green Scotchbrite once or twice a night, just a couple of light swipes. Here in Florida it's so humid that it definitely gets gummy/sticky easier. Anything else better or less abrasive than Scotchbrite? Something I can use to treat or seal the shaft to keep it smooth longer?

Scott
 
Tap Tap, ... I like my shaft kind of down and dirty, well used and dark and grimy looking :smile:. I don't know what's wrong with me, guess I'm just a sick pool player. :rolleyes:


...champions!
I like it dirty too. Not sure if I can see the end of it if it is all clean.
 
i found a Magic Eraser under the sink sometime last year and did give it a try. I was very impressed, but then disappointed to find that I wasn't the pioneer I thought I was when I found out that everybody else does it also, lol.

I use it with water, and really strive for getting as much dirt out as possible. I don't use wax as getting that on my hands always ends up bothering my eyes.

I have a stack leather wrap and I was told by the Tiger guy that put it on that I should clean it with Pledge, but that also bothers my eyes, so I started cleaning that with the Magic Eraser as well. I cannot believe how much dirt comes off of that wrap each time I clean it.
 
Dry

I keep a dry magic eraser in my case and a piece of leather to burnish with at all times. When my shaft gets sticky or dirty I just burnish it with the leather. When it gets a little dirty looking I swipe the magic eraser a few times, and the run the leather over it to get the eraser fibers off. It only takes a couple minutes. Every 2-3 months I do a thorough cleaning at home and then use butchers Bowling Alley wax. My shafts and ferrules stay very clean and smooth!
 
I like my shaft kind of down and dirty, well used and dark and grimy looking :smile:. I don't know what's wrong with me, guess I'm just a sick pool player

Scotchbrite - breakfast of champions!


Jay,

Stick to writing books, playing pool, and broadcasting...:smile:
Please do not attempt to get into the shaft cleaning business.
Next thing you know, we'll see you at a tournament with a microphone on your right,
and a repair lathe with a case of Scotchbrite on your left.

Peace

Ted
 
After trying many different things, I use magic eraser with the denatured alcohol from home depot. I purchased one tiny bottle of qglide about a year ago and would use that a few times a month.

If you have never tried qglide, you need to give it a try.

With the qglide about empty I noticed the comment about using hair frizz products. Sure enough, I found something called zero frizz at walmart for less than five dollars that works the same as the qglide. Five dollars for 5oz vs 10 dollars for 1/4 oz of qglide. That is equal to about $200 dollars worth of qglide, hahahahahahaha. The hair product has a slight fragrance to it but is not noticeable unless you stick your nose right up to the shaft.

Using dupont teflon dry wax was suggested and I looked around for that and could not find it. It lookes like they still have a dupont teflon multi-use product in the same color can but changed the name a little. I tried a very light application on a house cue with little results. Then I sprayed it directly on the cue and let it dry for a few minutes and the results are getting better. I am going to try a couple of coats more before coming to a conclusion on that stuff. I have a tuxedo looking cue and I want a white shaft to go with the colors in the butt of the cue and the teflon leaves a slight white film when it dries which adds to the appearance.

I will keep working with the dupont stuff and see what happens but as of now I think the hair frizz by schwarzkopf at walmart is leaving the slipperiest finish.
 
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Jay,

Stick to writing books, playing pool, and broadcasting...:smile:
Please do not attempt to get into the shaft cleaning business.
Next thing you know, we'll see you at a tournament with a microphone on your right,
and a repair lathe with a case of Scotchbrite on your left.

Peace

Ted

Roger, over and out! :D
I promise you there will NEVER be a cue made by Jay Helfert. If I got near a lathe I might hurt myself. In fact when I'm in a cue makers shop and the lathe starts running I take two steps back! :thumbup:
The extent of my knowledge is how to put a tip on, and I can do that with no tools other than glue, some sand paper (varying grits) and a rubber band (that's optional too). When I'm done it will be perfect and it won't ever come off, and that's a promise I can keep. :smile:
 
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Roger, over and out! :D
I promise you there will NEVER be a cue made by Jay Helfert. If I got near a lathe I might hurt myself. In fact when I'm in a cue makers shop and the lathe starts running I take two steps back! :thumbup:
The extent of my knowledge is how to put a tip on, and I can do that with no tools other than glue, some sand paper (varying grits) and a rubber band (that's optional too). When I'm done it will be perfect and it won't ever come off, and that's a promise I can keep. :smile:

The sequel to Pool Wars:

Ferrule Wars
by Jay Helfert

"on the road to hell & back with the worlds greatest cue repair guys"
 
Basically all I do to clean the shaft of my cue after use is to wipe it down with a damp brown paper towel and then burnish it with a dry brown paper towel. This cleans the shaft of crap and at the same time lifts minor dings, oh and the patina is pretty somewhat preserved. Maybe once in a while I'll hit it with a 'Q Smooth'(green or yellow only).

Now the wife is another story. She wants her's nice and white and really smooth...:rolleyes:

Gerry S
 
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