My Break Cue Tip is Flat
- Thread starter Surly
- Start date
What kind of cue is that? if you're making balls on the break who cares what it looks like.
If you are hitting the cue ball centered
If you were hitting the cue ball centered all of the time you would be better off with a dead flat tip. Don't concern yourself with the shape of the tip of your break cue unless you start deliberately hitting the cue ball far enough off center that you are miscuing with it.
Hu
Surly said:
If you were hitting the cue ball centered all of the time you would be better off with a dead flat tip. Don't concern yourself with the shape of the tip of your break cue unless you start deliberately hitting the cue ball far enough off center that you are miscuing with it.
Hu
Surly said:
i was just trying to say that it really doesn't matter what it looks like or what shape it is if you're making balls it's good enough
Surly said:
If you notice it most when applying chalk, do you mean the edges of the tip get chalked and not the middle? If this is what is happening, you are probably twisting the chalk on the tip. Because the shape of the hole inside the chalk does not match the tip, it causes poor chalk coverage.
Just change your chalking method to brushing instead of spinning, and you will be able to chalk any tip with any piece of chalk.
If that's not what you meant, then I agree with the other posters that a flatter tip is more forgiving for breaking, and has a larger sweet spot.
ShootingArts said:
I disagree...I tried a perfectly flat tip on my break cue for some time, what happened, the tip would slip to find the perfect spot to transfer the weight of the cue to the cue ball. I actually noticed skid marks on the tip and a much slower cue ball speed.
Why would it slip more than a round tip?
Interesting that you found it to slip more than a round tip and deliver less force. I don't tote a dedicated break stick so I haven't tried a flat tip on one. I did break with a stick without a tip on it for several hours one night years ago. The pool hall had did a bad job replacing tips and there were a lot of house sticks on the wall with no tips. The spot I gave the other player was playing without a tip. I found that my break was better than ever with just the flat ferule although I did destroy a few ferules. The other player found that playing without a tip wasn't nearly the spot he thought it was. :grin:
Hu
Island Drive said:
Interesting that you found it to slip more than a round tip and deliver less force. I don't tote a dedicated break stick so I haven't tried a flat tip on one. I did break with a stick without a tip on it for several hours one night years ago. The pool hall had did a bad job replacing tips and there were a lot of house sticks on the wall with no tips. The spot I gave the other player was playing without a tip. I found that my break was better than ever with just the flat ferule although I did destroy a few ferules. The other player found that playing without a tip wasn't nearly the spot he thought it was. :grin:
Hu
ShootingArts said:
That's what I 'thought' but just the opposite happened. There was no specific focal point for the force of the cue tip during contact.
Funny I'm reading this. I didn't feel like taking my Sledgehammer break cue out during league last night, and just reshaped my Sniper tip...
I grabbed a flat faced house cue...and had a monster break, way better feel and snap than with my nickle radius phenolic tipped Sledgehammer.
Hmmmmmmmmm....
I grabbed a flat faced house cue...and had a monster break, way better feel and snap than with my nickle radius phenolic tipped Sledgehammer.
Hmmmmmmmmm....
> I've been shaping mine about like that for at least 15 years,and here's why. I feel like it gives you a bigger sweet spot,much like John Daly having a driver with a head the size of a grapefruit. I cut mine to a 1 1/8 radius,which is 1/2 of a 2 1/4 cue ball,giving you a bigger contact patch. When I really break the balls good,there is a chalk mark on the cue ball the full width of my tip,enough said.
Also,a tip that is much flatter than the nickel or dime shape is less likely to change shape and dissipate energy,especially as thin as mine are. This only applies if you use a very hard tip,some do and some don't. I make mine so hard they approach the White Diamond/phenolic range,but not so hard they don't "bite" into the cue ball. I quit using phenolic because I couldn't "squat" the ball with it. Tommy D.
Also,a tip that is much flatter than the nickel or dime shape is less likely to change shape and dissipate energy,especially as thin as mine are. This only applies if you use a very hard tip,some do and some don't. I make mine so hard they approach the White Diamond/phenolic range,but not so hard they don't "bite" into the cue ball. I quit using phenolic because I couldn't "squat" the ball with it. Tommy D.
Thanks for all the replies. I'm always thinking that I'm missing something, even when it's simple and clear. It's breaking great, and I just couldn't accept it! I really feel like I'm making excellent contact with the cue ball, feeling almost twice as much... recoil?... in my back hand.
And I do brush the chalk, never twist.
And I do brush the chalk, never twist.