My Rhino experience

BRKNRUN said:
That is the one thing I don't like about the Rhino shaft....and at this point I do wonder if my hand is acting like a fine grit sand paper on the shaft.......I have cleaned it multiple times to where nothing is coming off....after some amount of play...I can re-wipe it and get all kinds of black again.

I do notice it seems to attract chalk....I see the chalk on the shaft....Very possible it was also on wood shafts I just did not notice it the way it is noticeable on the black shaft.

I guess I will measure the shaft and re-measure over time to see if it is reducing in size.....or just picks up dirt easily with no place for it to go.

I never cleaned a wood shaft....In fact I preferred the hand oil candy coating build up the wood shafts get over time...IMO it helps protect the wood from getting dings........switching to the CF was different for me as it was ultra slick and I prefer that little bit of drag a nice candy coating on a wood shaft gets.

I also got a break shaft.....It does the exact same thing as the playing shaft.
Click to expand...

If you want to do a bit of experimenting, you could attempt to seal the shaft with shellac (available in most hardwares store under the 'Bullseye Sanding Sealer'). Just wipe on a couple of thin coats with a rag.

I like shellac because it sticks to almost anything, is a natural product (bug juice!), and doesn't feel sticky like gloss urethane can.
 
If the shaft required a one time cleaning, I would find that mildly annoying. If it is requiring multiple cleanings, over time. I would find that somewhat concerning. Is this the experience of other buyers? How many people have continued to find black residue?
 
DeeDeeCues said:
I'm a fledgling cuemaker, basically in the process of setting up the operation, so not actually completing much yet. I first built cues over 25yrs ago, did my first half-splices when I was 20, so I have had a bit of time to consider these types of things.

Your analysis is absolutely fair and informed consumers should consider all of that.
Click to expand...
Best of luck, I look forward to seeing fruits of your labor.
 
Jimmorrison said:
If the shaft required a one time cleaning, I would find that mildly annoying. If it is requiring multiple cleanings, over time. I would find that somewhat concerning. Is this the experience of other buyers? How many people have continued to find black residue?
Click to expand...
I bought my Rhino shaft over a month ago and have used it for many many break shots since. Cleaned it once with alcohol and never since. I've not noticed any black residue after the initial cleaning for what it's worth.
 
Jimmorrison said:
If the shaft required a one time cleaning, I would find that mildly annoying. If it is requiring multiple cleanings, over time. I would find that somewhat concerning. Is this the experience of other buyers? How many people have continued to find black residue?
Click to expand...
There's a guy that posts on the cuemaker forum, he was trying to figure out how to stop his cf shafts from leaving black lines on his rails. Gotta say, I don't want them on mine. I'd try that shellac.
 
BRKNRUN said:
I may do something like that....I play with a cue from a locally popular cue maker that lives very near me....He put some kind of wax on it a while back that seemed to help for a while and it actually made it feel more like a well broken in wood shaft......that has long worn off though....I may see if he can spin on some sealant like you mention on one of his lathes. I am fairly certain he will know all about them and probably have one on hand that is his go to.

I did do some quick google searches and found that this is not something unique to Rhino....I am seeing the same issue reported from the major brands....Some say they get nothing at all....some say they get a lot.

I will say my table is really dirty as far as cloth goes...that coupled with Masters chalk may just be picking up a lot of dirt that looks black coming off the shaft.

I measured the shaft....It is still 12.70 exactly as ordered.
Click to expand...
The guy that posted about his rails made the shafts, he was pretty sure he was able to make the line with his shaft.

Another cuemaker posted that he thought it had to do with the quality of the tube.

I think at some point, most of the big players will have some type of coating on them, some of them already do.
 
dendweller said:
There's a guy that posts on the cuemaker forum, he was trying to figure out how to stop his cf shafts from leaving black lines on his rails. Gotta say, I don't want them on mine. I'd try that shellac.
Click to expand...
That's what I noticed first when I bought my LIttle Monster. Black marks on the rails where I take my practice strokes.
The marks come off with a towel and some brushing but it's still not a good thing. I didn't wipe it down with alcohol to start, not realizing it had this residue from the manufacturer.
 
Grimper said:
Unable to find a Cynergy 12.5 radial pin anywhere on the face of the earth, I bit the bullet and bought a Rhino shaft. Thought I'd share my thoughts.

Purchased directly from the Rhino web site; ordered on 1/31, delivered on 2/6.

The shaft was packaged well.

View attachment 741864View attachment 741866


8 Layered High-Performance F1 Crystal Cue Tip. Some people said they got an extra tip with theirs, but I didn't.

View attachment 741867



It fit my Predator P3 butt like a glove.

View attachment 741868



Wiped down with an alcohol cloth. Damn! Definitely do this the first thing.

View attachment 741869


After playing with it for an hour or so, I must say I'm impressed for an under-$200 CF shaft. I'd highly recommend it. I think it hits more like a Cuetec Cynergy than it does a Predator Revo.
Click to expand...
Didn't like the tip that came w mine. Felt Dead. Put a milk dud on her and she plays great!! Very happy.
 
Black-Balled said:
But I think any deterioration under normal use would be so slow it would approach 0?

I've never heard of carbon pool shafts delaminating and you know there are some really crappy ones out there,
Click to expand...
I would have to agree, they are so solid that I don't think they would delaminate at all. In fact, some of the guys use a fine steel wool on them clean/smooth them up a bit.
 
SeniorTom said:
I would have to agree, they are so solid that I don't think they would delaminate at all. In fact, some of the guys use a fine steel wool on them clean/smooth them up a bit.
Click to expand...
I don't think he's saying delaminate like the shaft will fall apart, I think he's saying the fibers may separate, causing the black coming off the shaft.
 
BRKNRUN said:
I did do some quick google searches and found that this is not something unique to Rhino....I am seeing the same issue reported from the major brands....Some say they get nothing at all....some say they get a lot.
Click to expand...
I did a search and you are correct, there is a 2019 thread on this forum about the same happening with predators. I'm pretty sure they don't seal them, they have some fancy polishing process.
The new Viking cf shaft is saying that the last layer is just a resin (not the resin/fiber mixture) coating and that it's unsanded and supposedly feels good on the hand. Mcdermott has some type of layer over the cf that used to be pretty tacky. Supposedly they've resolved that issue in the new version. Both companies warn you to never sand the shaft, apparently they don't want you wearing through that top layer.
 
Everything sealed polished or waxed will require maintenance, it’s just a fact of life. If I owned one of these shafts I’d call Meguiars and ask their advice. The reason for that is I would be waxing the shaft as opposed to sealing it with shellac or any other long term sealant.

Wax is far easier to apply, reapply and maintain than any sealer. It’s also easier to remove. Waxes are also available as cleaner waxes, polishing waxes, hi gloss, satin finish and a myriad of other looks. Meguiars tech folks are top notch as are their products. JMO!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top