New cue rituals?

randallt6

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Im getting my new Mezz tn, wondering if anyone does anything to their cue when they get a new one? I haven't had a new cue for about 8 years, any recommendations on things I should do to it right away, or should I just play with it!? I'm talking about putting a shaft conditioner on it or shaping the tip, etc...

thanks,
Randall
 
Im getting my new Mezz tn, wondering if anyone does anything to their cue when they get a new one? I haven't had a new cue for about 8 years, any recommendations on things I should do to it right away, or should I just play with it!? I'm talking about putting a shaft conditioner on it or shaping the tip, etc...

thanks,
Randall

Go ahead and smack it on the light first thing. Just get it out of the way. :D
 
If I get a new cue I usually burnish the heck out of the shaft with a piece of non-stained leather to close any pores in the wood that may still be open. I might even hit the cue with 600 grit or higher sandpaper first before doing the leather burnishing. I'm attempting to protect against moisture as I live in a fairly humid climate and to also harden the shaft a bit against unwanted nicks. I get a lot less in the way of dings when starting off that way although hitting the light with a bit of force will still do it :thumbup: and takes off the pressure of keeping that cue as pristine as possible:D

I also shape my tip a bit to make sure I get the action I want on the cue ball. Usually new tips on production cues come with a radius resembling a nickel or may have even less curvature to start. I like mine slightly more rounded then a nickel radius but not quite that of a dime.

Enjoy your new cue!
 
Retaper to my liking, change tip to my preference, then shoot with till can't lift arm. Simple break in procedure really.


Best, & congrats,

Justin


-- Sent from my Palm Pre using Forums
 
If I get a new cue I usually burnish the heck out of the shaft with a piece of non-stained leather to close any pores in the wood that may still be open. I might even hit the cue with 600 grit or higher sandpaper first before doing the leather burnishing. I'm attempting to protect against moisture as I live in a fairly humid climate and to also harden the shaft a bit against unwanted nicks. I get a lot less in the way of dings when starting off that way although hitting the light with a bit of force will still do it :thumbup: and takes off the pressure of keeping that cue as pristine as possible:D

I also shape my tip a bit to make sure I get the action I want on the cue ball. Usually new tips on production cues come with a radius resembling a nickel or may have even less curvature to start. I like mine slightly more rounded then a nickel radius but not quite that of a dime.

Enjoy your new cue!

Do you know where they usually sell Burnishing Leather? Im guessing a fabric supplies store of some type??

thnx for the info.
 
Tad used to give you squares of green cloth to burnish with when you purchased a cue from him. Besides that you may want to rub your new cues' butt to break her in...lol

Gerry S
 
First Time Upon Entering a Pool Hall

...should be accomplished in due and ancient form as long there are no objections from the other pool players.

Certain grips, stances, and an obligation to treat the cue right need be taught.

It's a very old and honored tradition. Don't screw it up. ;)


Corey
 
Tad used to give you squares of green cloth to burnish your shaft when you purchased a cue from him. Besides that you may want to rub your new cues' butt to break her in...lol

Gerry S
 
...you may want to rub your new cues' butt to break her in...lol

Gerry S

Def rub the butt. I like to get the shaft all hot and then hit it with a little Pledge, jerki...uhh, rubbing that in too.

Heard folks say it softens the wood...I have never ahd bad doing it and it makes the shaft like glass.

Did I read you are using an LD shaft? Not sure how my treatment will affect that.
 
Not to sound like the grim reaper, but the first thing I do is roll it on a table to make sure it's straight.
Next I would take it to Hank's and show it off, hit a few racks, and put it away before somebody dings it.
 
What I do with each new cue/shaft...

Shape your tip to your preference, check several times over the next couple of days for mushrooming and glazing...should settle in and not require any more dressing for quite a while. Eventually, proper chalking technique will allow the abrasiveness of the chalk to keep your tip in an optimal shape, with rare touch ups with a tip shaper to keep it perfect.

Trick to get rid of mushrooming of tip: take your shaft off, wet the edge of the tip with spit (roll it across a wet tongue)...lay shaft flat on the table and roll it quickly back and forth on the table, putting firm/heavy pressure with one hand over the tip/ferrule. You'll see the mushroom go away in about 30 seconds or less; sit in a chair and roll the shaft back and forth quickly on your lap, holding a burnishing leather or dollar bill on the edge of the tip with moderate pressure. You'll feel some heat. Now your tip is nicely burnished on its edge, and won't mushroom again as easily. Works like a champ and takes less than a minute...plus your avoid trying to grind your way past the mushrooming with a tip shaper, wasting a lot of material.

Good tip on burnishing the shaft itself, although a swatch of brown paper bag works, too, as does a decent dollar bill. Keep wiping with a dry towel (I keep a clean microfiber towel in my case) and make sure you keep the chalk off the ferrule. Also, wipe the chalk off the tip when putting back into the case. Eventually the oils from your fingers will gradually fill in the pores and you'll have a nice, smooth, naturally conditioned patina that doesn't blue as easily and stays smooth when dry. Save the sandpaper for house cues!!:grin-square:
 
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A small dab of holy water.

Seriously, though, I just start running basic drills for about 10 racks, shaping the tip as nedeed as it plays in. I want to see how the cue reacts and feels to my basic stroke and shots.
 
Thanks for all the help everyone! I'll try burnishing the shaft with leather.
 
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Assemble the cue take your index finger and balance it on to the bumper of the cue and try to the balenceing act then let it fall on the floor.

Then its all gravy............... Congrats on the new cue :thumbup:
 
Cue Training...

Upon arrival it must be kept separate from any cue that has ever missed cued on / or dogged the cheese... (you do not want the bad habits or mediocre play of the "Bad Apples" to influence the new cues performance).

Second, and this is important, you must get a "customer" in a bad game and beat them mercilessly. This will give the cue a taste victory for which it will continue to hunger and an understanding of its purpose.

There are other steps of proper cue training regarding punishment and reward systems but those can be (and should be) addressed after a certain amount of trust has been established with its new owner.

Best of luck...
 
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