New Predator 4 Point Sneaky Pete

Thanks for all the advice i will keep this stuff in mind. I hope everyone on here is like this all this first hand experience, and the willingness to share it is going to help me when I hit a ceiling in my play.
 
dustin_65 said:
I was just thinking maybe it would offer a firm hit, do you notice any significant difference hit in a steel joint compared to your wood to wood?
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I would say there's a bit less of a "wobble" during the hit with a SS joint. I wouldn't say that's either's good or bad, just a slightly different characteristic.

I will say that although I occasionally wonder if I should have purchased a SS jointed 314-2, I don't think many people who purchased a SS joint wonder if they should have purchased a wood to wood.

Have I confused you enough yet? :D
 
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slide13 said:
I've only had the 1x1 Porper but for the money they are pretty decent. Mine is going on 7 years old and is still going strong. I have a bunch of more expensive cases now but my first pool cue (Viking purchased same time as the case) is still sitting in it and gets loaned to friends without cues when we play together.

I would echo other who say go with a 2x4 though. Always nice to have extra space for a couple more shafts and the price difference is pretty minimal.
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Joe porper cases are very good quality. I have one of his old models 20 years old which is still in pretty decent shape. You can't go wrong with a porper for the money... and the protection is very good as well.
 
Predator 314-2 or Z-2?

They have a option to upgrade to the Z-2 Shaft for $21.25 is it a good deal should I do it?

Like I said this cue will probably be my main shooter for a while.
 
the 3x6 I just bought is a porper. they have a lifetime warranty, and they are made in America. Beyond that though, they are well padded, top to bottom, and you just wont find that kind of protection in low budget cases. I only paid like 80 bucks for my case though, so its not like I had to skip a car payment to buy it:wink:. I wish I had an answer for your z2 vs 314 question, but I have never hit with a Z2, sorry.
 
snipershot said:
the 3x6 I just bought is a porper. they have a lifetime warranty, and they are made in America. Beyond that though, they are well padded, top to bottom, and you just wont find that kind of protection in low budget cases. I only paid like 80 bucks for my case though, so its not like I had to skip a car payment to buy it:wink:. I wish I had an answer for your z2 vs 314 question, but I have never hit with a Z2, sorry.
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Thanks i have settled on the 314-2 for now maybe upgrade latter or spend the money on a break cue later, thanks for the case info though.
 
Thanks for everything guys!

I just wanted to give a special thanks to

snipershot
mongoose-
Mitchorama
"T"
chin0
slide13
Johnnyz86
MitchAlsup
StudntofHmanMvs

For helping me select some good starter equipment, and thanks for all the welcomes.

Good Shooting,
Dustin
 
you're welcome, enjoy your new equipment! Hopefully I will be receiving the stuff I ordered a couple weeks ago.. wanted it today :o

chin0 said:
I actually like the Q-Smooth better than the Q-Wiz, the q-wiz is a quick fix, but the q-smooth get it smoother, at least I think so personally. As for the application of wax, many people have their own personal opinions about it, some like it, so like their shaft just cleaned and burnished with leather. I don't use the wax very often, though, after a good clean just apply the wax on the shaft, let it sit for a while and use a smooth cotton cloth to buff it off and half way burnish it with the cloth until the cloth get warm. I don't think you will have much of a problem since you have a glove. I would also recommend getting a micro fiber cloth to help keep your shaft clean after everytime you play. This helps keep the shaft clean and smooth a lot longer.

Hope this helps man. Good luck.

Happy shooting! :)

Chino
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Is the Q-smooth also washable?
 
dustin_65 said:
Thank you for all the replies, and the welcome, I'm pretty new to playing pool seriously, but I am in it full bore so i want to get set up here is my whole list of products that I am going to order once i get some good feedback or not order if i get negative, please let me know what you think.

Predator 4 Point Sneaky Pete S/S Joint No Wrap
Predator Joint Protectors
A Tip Tapper
A Porper Tip Burnisher
A Tiger Leather Burnisher
A Willard Dime Shaper
Sir Joseph Billiard Gloves - Don't like talc, liked the glove i had but it wore out hope these will last a little longer
1X1 Porper Square Signature Cue Case
A Q Smooth Set
A Q-Wiz
And Silver Cup Chalk

I'm looking for any feedback at all on these products as it is a large order and i dont want to get stuck with a crappy product, this will be my starting set up.
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I see that you wear a glove. Have you ever thought of using Billiard FingerSlides? They last much longer than a standard glove...and the fit is better also. I've been using mine for almost a year now.
 
dustin_65 said:
Thank you for all the replies, and the welcome, I'm pretty new to playing pool seriously, but I am in it full bore so i want to get set up here is my whole list of products that I am going to order once i get some good feedback or not order if i get negative, please let me know what you think.

Predator 4 Point Sneaky Pete S/S Joint No Wrap
Predator Joint Protectors
A Tip Tapper
A Porper Tip Burnisher
A Tiger Leather Burnisher
A Willard Dime Shaper
Sir Joseph Billiard Gloves - Don't like talc, liked the glove i had but it wore out hope these will last a little longer
1X1 Porper Square Signature Cue Case
A Q Smooth Set
A Q-Wiz
And Silver Cup Chalk

I'm looking for any feedback at all on these products as it is a large order and i dont want to get stuck with a crappy product, this will be my starting set up.
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Put your money back in your pocket...
All you need is:

a cue (SS or W2W whatever)
a smalll piece of sand paper.. aka TIP TOOL
and a rubberband to hold it all together.

When you can run 4 balls in a row you are authorized a willard to put on your key chain.

Run 6 and you can get a case....


Smoke <-- hates it when the new guys spend all of their money before they get to the poolhall. :grin:




p.s... Q smooth..Q quick...Q whatever ..... and a glove ????

Wood is good... touch it sometimes...use one of those dollars in your pocket or, a paper towel, to throw a quick burnish on the shaft.
 
dustin_65 said:
I am going to purchase a Predator Sneaky Pete with a 314-2 shaft, i was wondering what the difference is in wood to wood or their stainless steel joint? is either one better or is it just what your prefer?
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I just shot with a friend's Predator Sneaky Pete with a 314-2 shaft and REALLY liked it. I prefer front weighted cues and after eyeballing this cue and comparing it with a 20" front weighted cue, it seemed to be about 19.5". This was a 19 ounce cue and it seemed heavier because of the weight distribution, which I like. I couldn't believe it was only 19 ounces. It was SS and the hit felt really solid.

Best of all I liked the skinny butt. I think you can get more zip (wrist action) with a skinny butt and I like the way it layed in my fingers.

I liked it so much that I am considering purchasing one. I just can't decide what the best weight would be for me and would like to try out different weighted Predator cues before buying. I missed Valley Forge this year so I didn't get to test any of these cues.

If anyone can suggest where I could test some Predator cues in the D.C. area I would really appreciate it. I heard Baltimore has a dealer's convention so I couldn't get in there I am assuming.

And one other thing - I WOULD NOT get a Porper case unless they have changed the foam protection as this crap warps permanently over time and gets bent out of shape. If they went back to their old rubber protection I would recommend Porper. Get an Instroke case - the best case on the market IMO.
 
You have gotten some useful feedback from several posters. My only comment after reading this thread is to ditch the Silver Cup chalk!:D

About the only brand of chalk you will ever see in a pro's cue case is Master's chalk, usually blue. There is a high priced chalk (Blue Diamond by Longoni) that some think it the best in the world, but it is several dollars per cube as I recall.
 
BillPorter said:
You have gotten some useful feedback from several posters. My only comment after reading this thread is to ditch the Silver Cup chalk!:D

About the only brand of chalk you will ever see in a pro's cue case is Master's chalk, usually blue. There is a high priced chalk (Blue Diamond by Longoni) that some think it the best in the world, but it is several dollars per cube as I recall.
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Hey Hey ...
Silver cup is produced in good ol' Macon Ga so I have to, by birth, defend those guys :D

Though I can never get my hands on a cube over here..........
 
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