I have the opposite experience with Predator... Their customer service is first class in my book and I will play with nothing else.
New shaft. Whats best?
- Thread starter BIGWERM88
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I have the opposite experience with Predator... Their customer service is first class in my book and I will play with nothing else.
I just bought an OB-1 a few weeks ago after trying the Predator, the I shaft from McDermott and the OB-1. They all performed similarly in my opinion but I liked the feel better on the OB-1. I really only noticed the difference when shooting extreme english. So unless you're using that much, any quality shaft that feels right will work.
I'm confused regarding the McDermott options for LD shafts. Some people are saying the G-core is their new line and a replacement for the I shaft options, others say the G-core is just a new LD option for their mid-range cues as their I shafts are still on their top end cues. As they are still selling the I shafts and putting them on their top end cues, it makes me wonder which is the better way to go. The G-core is newer but the I shafts are priced higher and on their top end cues. Anyone know the performance differences between G-core and I shaft? I know there are technical differences in manufacture, the G core has graphite I think, but as far as playability and feel, which do you prefer?
nothing wrong with them, was just relaying what i know happend
I never heard anything bad about them untill the newer shafts came around, as in with the ferrules breaking, and didn't understand why the company wouldn't fix it after they had already. Didn't mean it to say their product is crap, they make thousands upon thousands of them...so I'm sure your going to find some that malfunction or whatever. If i wanted an LD shaft I wouldn't hesisate to buy a pred product, or tiger and any of the top companys, they are all good shafts.
I never heard anything bad about them untill the newer shafts came around, as in with the ferrules breaking, and didn't understand why the company wouldn't fix it after they had already. Didn't mean it to say their product is crap, they make thousands upon thousands of them...so I'm sure your going to find some that malfunction or whatever. If i wanted an LD shaft I wouldn't hesisate to buy a pred product, or tiger and any of the top companys, they are all good shafts.
Paulie...Don't quote me, but I believe the G-Core shafts will replace the I-Series. The G-Core shafts, imo, play superior to the old I-series, and are available in all dimensions and joint options. Personally, I like the G-Core shafts better than any of the LD shaft options available out there.
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Just test some shafts- the one where u think it s the best for u...it s the bestno matter if laminated shafts or solid maple shafts. just a matter of your opinion- and u have to train anyway with any shaft
I agree with Ratta. Don't get too wrapped around the axle. Quality, accuracy, feel, and support are factors in the decision, and we each weight them differently. Go with what's important for you.
For accuracy, make sure you understand and can measure squirt.
No matter which shaft you go with, make sure it has the tip you like and it's kept in good shape.
Keep in mind that if later on you decide you don't like the shaft, you can sell it and buy another one.
Mark is right on here. I have been using the G-Core shaft for most of the past year, and love it. Last week I had a great opportunity to visit cuemaker Kent Davis (KD Cues), in S. CA, and play with some of his outstanding cues. He also has developed his own concepts of LD shafts, and I have to say, after playing for a few hours with one, I couldn't tell the difference between my shaft and his (which is a pretty strong testamonial, imo). Many cuemakers are making their own versions of LD shafts. Kent Davis has one that is outstanding!
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
There are so many cue-manufacturers and cue-maker building so called *LD-Shafts*. Each of them are workin with different ways using *physical ways* to reduce the deflection. Noone could tell you what feels right for you my dear-
I ve tested now many LD Shafts- some felt *not so good* for me, and 1 felt great- just played some balls and immediatley i felt satisfied..that s it. You re the only person that have to feel satisfied-noone else. And there s absolutley no matter for using a laminated-shaft or just a well done non-laminated shaft. Take it, test it- that s all
I ve tested now many LD Shafts- some felt *not so good* for me, and 1 felt great- just played some balls and immediatley i felt satisfied..that s it. You re the only person that have to feel satisfied-noone else. And there s absolutley no matter for using a laminated-shaft or just a well done non-laminated shaft. Take it, test it- that s all
I've been playing with an OB-1 for two years now, and for the forseeable future, I refuse to play with anything else. Bottom line, you have to find something you're comfortable with, practice with it until you don't ever want to look at it again, and then practice some more. Between the OBs, the Predators, Tiger-X or the McDermott shafts, you're more than likely going to be pleased with any of them.
I play with predator Z2. Hit some balls with Jacoby's new shaft a BCA in MN last weekend and was very impressed with the shaft!!
duplicate post!!!!!!
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By far a Predator shaft is the most consistent, accurate shaft on the planet. Everyone else is just trying to follow their lead and come up with a better way to lower deflection but unfortunately with the material of wood, predator has already appeared to figure out the best way and patented it.
Another thing is: You break your shaft and your in any large tournament,
grab another predator and your back in business. You break your one of kind custom maple shaft aged and dried for how ever many years and replace it, it will in most cases be a completely different feel, hardness, stiffness, different tip, etc....You will not feel confident shooting for quite awhile IMO. At least not comfortable putting inside english on shots beyond 4ft..
ON the flip side.
It really depends on how long you have been playing and what you have been shooting with for the last ? how many years and last but not least, do you spin the balls often or do you rely on english for a reasonable percentage of shots. For example, if you have been using a (high deflection 13.4mm) house cue for the last 10 years and your up to the point that you can run 5 out 10 racks of nine off the break or more... There is a good chance the lowest deflection shaft on the market might not be your first choice when replacing that broomstick
. Although with predators new fat shaft, Im seeing and hearing more and more seasoned players making the switch easy. It appears to be the best of both worlds, you get all the technology and edge but with the feel of a fat maple shaft with a 20% aiming advantage.
I think why people might go with a Ob-1, smart shaft, red dot, or what ever is because for some players that know how to compensate at average levels for deflection, squirt etc...Where they think the compensation is, those particular shafts happen to fit like a glove to that particular players perception and stroke. Im a big advocate of trying as many brands as possible to get a feel for whats right for the individual.
I have played with house cues, mariposas, Mcdermonts, vikings, duffrins, Schons, red dots, no names, Southwests, Cognecenti's, cuetecs, the list goes one.
If you lived in Chicago I could give you a personal demo, and evaluate how a predator shaft might benefit your game. Im a Predator dealer, I have demo shafts you can spend a few hours with..Or more if need be..
Another thing is: You break your shaft and your in any large tournament,
grab another predator and your back in business. You break your one of kind custom maple shaft aged and dried for how ever many years and replace it, it will in most cases be a completely different feel, hardness, stiffness, different tip, etc....You will not feel confident shooting for quite awhile IMO. At least not comfortable putting inside english on shots beyond 4ft..
ON the flip side.
It really depends on how long you have been playing and what you have been shooting with for the last ? how many years and last but not least, do you spin the balls often or do you rely on english for a reasonable percentage of shots. For example, if you have been using a (high deflection 13.4mm) house cue for the last 10 years and your up to the point that you can run 5 out 10 racks of nine off the break or more... There is a good chance the lowest deflection shaft on the market might not be your first choice when replacing that broomstick
. Although with predators new fat shaft, Im seeing and hearing more and more seasoned players making the switch easy. It appears to be the best of both worlds, you get all the technology and edge but with the feel of a fat maple shaft with a 20% aiming advantage. I think why people might go with a Ob-1, smart shaft, red dot, or what ever is because for some players that know how to compensate at average levels for deflection, squirt etc...Where they think the compensation is, those particular shafts happen to fit like a glove to that particular players perception and stroke. Im a big advocate of trying as many brands as possible to get a feel for whats right for the individual.
I have played with house cues, mariposas, Mcdermonts, vikings, duffrins, Schons, red dots, no names, Southwests, Cognecenti's, cuetecs, the list goes one.
If you lived in Chicago I could give you a personal demo, and evaluate how a predator shaft might benefit your game. Im a Predator dealer, I have demo shafts you can spend a few hours with..Or more if need be..
Quote:
Originally Posted by greyghost View Post
the ferrules break/split/crack and they don't stand by their product...know of quite a few people that had damaged ferrules multiple times each and predator did not warrant the repairs they made
I just had a buddy crack his ferrule on his 314-2...He sent it in and they deemed it was a warranty issue, replaced the ferrule and ask him what tip he would like put on..All under warranty all free of charge.
What can happen is you have compulsive shaft cleaners, and they use chemicals and sand paper, 3m scrubs, to clean their predators...Over the course of time they knock off 1/2-3/4 millimeter of material from the shaft and ferrule, this weakens the ferrule and makes is susceptible to breakage. It says specifically in the warranty: not to do sand or turn down your predator shaft, otherwise it violates the warranty.
Will GM replace a blown motor if you add Nitrous Oxide to the car or forget to add oil....:boring2:
Originally Posted by greyghost View Post
the ferrules break/split/crack and they don't stand by their product...know of quite a few people that had damaged ferrules multiple times each and predator did not warrant the repairs they made
I just had a buddy crack his ferrule on his 314-2...He sent it in and they deemed it was a warranty issue, replaced the ferrule and ask him what tip he would like put on..All under warranty all free of charge.
What can happen is you have compulsive shaft cleaners, and they use chemicals and sand paper, 3m scrubs, to clean their predators...Over the course of time they knock off 1/2-3/4 millimeter of material from the shaft and ferrule, this weakens the ferrule and makes is susceptible to breakage. It says specifically in the warranty: not to do sand or turn down your predator shaft, otherwise it violates the warranty.
Will GM replace a blown motor if you add Nitrous Oxide to the car or forget to add oil....:boring2:
I play with the McDermott I-3. I like the small ferrule and the 11.75 tip. Gives me a feel of geometric precision when I hit the cue ball. Plus I like the Moori Soft tip. I recently sent my shaft back to McDermott for a cleaning and new tip. Since that's covered by the warranty, the only charge is the shipping & handling charge of $21.95. I've tried the OB-2 and didn't see much difference in playability. I'm far from a good player and perhaps better players may be able to ascertain some differences between various LD shafts. Good luck with your quest Pilgrim.
I have been playing for years with Predator 314/314-2's and have.no complaints. The perform.as advertises. Once I got used to an
LD shaft It WAS Nice to point and shoot (almost that easy anyway). But I've tried all of the aftermarket brands and NONE gave me the feel of a AAA+ premium shaft conventional shafts of the really good cuemakers
Because of their construction either With hollow tip ends or fancy laminationz with foam , etc., One.have felt as good as a great conventional shaft. This lack of feel in my oponion can negate the benefits of less deflection in other ways (precision shots / speed shots where sense of speed is a key / and table length shots at speed). The Predators seemes to turn into a very mediocre shaft in thesed areas
So I.made up my mind that the next cue made for me would utilize a standard shaft with enough spine to give.me the play I.needed on the shots I mentioned ....and I would Just go back to the old days and start compensating got deflection again.
Then I tried and ultimately ordered a.customer from Arnot Wadsworth. I.was lucky enough to demo one of his cues and KG had Arnot's version of his low.deflection shaft called the Terminator-3. The shaft was Just great. It is a lamination but it is a solid lamination of 26 layers of rock hard maple. With no gimmicks like hollow areas or foaming the hit is as good as ANY shaft that I've played. On impact it is rock solid....stiff enough to know where its going (Just enough "spine") and wonderful on soft precision shots. To top it off they are finishes beautifully And Arnot will make one for Just about any cue / joint you've got. The Terminator 3 is really the best of both worlds.....
Solid hit / Excellent feel / excellent parabolic taper / low deflection / great aesthetics
LD shaft It WAS Nice to point and shoot (almost that easy anyway). But I've tried all of the aftermarket brands and NONE gave me the feel of a AAA+ premium shaft conventional shafts of the really good cuemakers
Because of their construction either With hollow tip ends or fancy laminationz with foam , etc., One.have felt as good as a great conventional shaft. This lack of feel in my oponion can negate the benefits of less deflection in other ways (precision shots / speed shots where sense of speed is a key / and table length shots at speed). The Predators seemes to turn into a very mediocre shaft in thesed areas
So I.made up my mind that the next cue made for me would utilize a standard shaft with enough spine to give.me the play I.needed on the shots I mentioned ....and I would Just go back to the old days and start compensating got deflection again.
Then I tried and ultimately ordered a.customer from Arnot Wadsworth. I.was lucky enough to demo one of his cues and KG had Arnot's version of his low.deflection shaft called the Terminator-3. The shaft was Just great. It is a lamination but it is a solid lamination of 26 layers of rock hard maple. With no gimmicks like hollow areas or foaming the hit is as good as ANY shaft that I've played. On impact it is rock solid....stiff enough to know where its going (Just enough "spine") and wonderful on soft precision shots. To top it off they are finishes beautifully And Arnot will make one for Just about any cue / joint you've got. The Terminator 3 is really the best of both worlds.....
Solid hit / Excellent feel / excellent parabolic taper / low deflection / great aesthetics
I just had a buddy crack his ferrule on his 314-2...He sent it in and they deemed it was a warranty issue, replaced the ferrule and ask him what tip he would like put on..All under warranty all free of charge.
What can happen is you have compulsive shaft cleaners, and they use chemicals and sand paper, 3m scrubs, to clean their predators...Over the course of time they knock off 1/2-3/4 millimeter of material from the shaft and ferrule, this weakens the ferrule and makes is susceptible to breakage. It says specifically in the warranty: not to do sand or turn down your predator shaft, otherwise it violates the warranty.
Your opinion about this equipment is not what I have found to be true, I own a pool room, do repair work, and I have a well stocked retails sales section. Over the last 7 years I have seen a number of re-occurring problems that happen with Predator shafts. The first problems I noticed back in 2004 was BK Break Shafts that has ferrules imploding, these shafts had none of the problems you described, they were shafts that were not more than 3 months old, and these problems are continuing. The next major problems that have started happening started when the 314-2 series shafts have came out. The ferrule material on these shafts was changed to improve performance and further lighten the front of the shaft.
The new ferrule material does crack very easily on new shafts, I see it all the time and it is not due to abuse of any kind. Now that would not be a big problem if Predator was taking care of their warranty issues like they use to, but they are not, and I am speaking from first hand experience. I really have no dog in this fight, and I was not going to post at all, but the facts need to be known, I am sorry but your version is not what I seen or encountered.
JIMO
stiff shaft
I tried many cues at the Derby City & picked up a Jacoby, which should serve be til the grave.
I would like to sell my Universal Smart Shaft with its Players butt if anyone is interested.
I tried many cues at the Derby City & picked up a Jacoby, which should serve be til the grave.
I would like to sell my Universal Smart Shaft with its Players butt if anyone is interested.
