OB-2 Shaft too tight?????

JoeyA

JoeyA

Efren's Mini-Tourn BACKER
Silver Member
OK, my disclaimer is this. I've tried it on my Bender forearm and OB2 shaft. My shaft was so tight it I was afraid I was going to strip the pin right out of the forearm or do some serious damage to the other threads on the shaft.

I picked up some Minwax, PASTE FINISHING WAX. tHE dIRECTIONS REPORT THAT THIS WAX PRODUCES A HARD, DRY OIL-LESS POLISH. After putting some on the metal threads and the wooden threads of the OB2 shaft a couple of times, my OB2 shaft screws on and off without any difficulty. It's still tight, just not super-tight.

It worked on my OB2 shaft but I don't know if it will work on any other equipment.

Royce might join in here..

Another thing though, I was caretaker for a pro player's cue and spotted something rather unusual in his case which I happened to spy and it was some wax in a small container. I didn't use any but decided that since the Minwas was a hard wax, I would try it out on the wooden shaft. It works really well, keep a lot of the dirt and chalk off of the shaft and ferrule. After applying the wax you can wait 15 minutes and buff off with a clean cloth or electric polisher/buffer.

If you just want to keep the ferrule clean of chalk, you can spread a thin layer of Super Glue on the OB2 wooden ferrule and that will keep the chalk from getting imbedded into the wood as well. I don't suggest you put the super glue on the shaft. :wink:

Anyway, I haven't had any downside on the Minwax Paste Finishing Wax and I've had it on my OB shaft and Bender cue for a month or so.

I use a glove so I don't notice the shaft sticking to my bridge hand before or after I applied the wax to the shaft.

JoeyA
 
This is a good idea. I have that problem with one of my shafts so I will try what you said. Oh and I don't think the wax will show on the pink glove.
 
Joey, my OB-2 fits snugly, but not overly so, so I don't need to treat the pin. To seal the shaft, I use a small square of common kitchen wax paper and rapidly rub it up and down lengthwise while turning the shaft. The ferrule and outside edge of the tip get a similar treatment. I also use wax paper on linen wrap, spinning it in my hand and slowly moving up and down like the stripes on a barber pole. To get a nice gloss on all of the above, I burnish after application.

I repeat this process every week or so. It's easy to carry a bit in your case for a no-mess-no-bother touch up on the road.
 
Bob Callahan said:
Joey, my OB-2 fits snugly, but not overly so, so I don't need to treat the pin. To seal the shaft, I use a small square of common kitchen wax paper and rapidly rub it up and down lengthwise while turning the shaft. The ferrule and outside edge of the tip get a similar treatment. I also use wax paper on linen wrap, spinning it in my hand and slowly moving up and down like the stripes on a barber pole. To get a nice gloss on all of the above, I burnish after application.

I repeat this process every week or so. It's easy to carry a bit in your case for a no-mess-no-bother touch up on the road.
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Wow, this is a good tip for the shaft! Thanx and I'll try this too! :smile:

For the pin, we usually have wax here (the cheaper ones) in liquid so what I do (like some of my friends also told me to and so that the wax "stays" and not evaporates) when the pin gets tight, just rub some white candle lightly over the thread. You can easily brush off the excess and it doesn't usually make that much excess depending on the amount of pressure you put on it when rubbing. It works for me. Actually I don't have an OB shaft but I guess the "tip" is good for any pin :smile:
 
This works well too . . .

Bee's wax . . . aka Burt's lip balm . . . is very effective and lasts a long time.
 
Ob-2

I played with an OB2 for the first time Sunday night.
We tried it on a few different cues and it fit snug but not too tight.

By the way it had an exception hit.
Definitely nicer than my OB1
 
Joey,

Thanks for posting this little tidbit of information!

The floor wax works extremely well. We have used it even on 5/16x14 joint pins where the pin is a little oversize. A couple of applications of the wax and all is well!

For those that don't know, Joey's cue is a Bender with a special pin. We can, obviously, build a shaft for it, but they can run a little tight. We also build a shaft for the radial type pin that you find on the import cues like the 5280 and a few others. We use the same wax on those as they can be tight too.

Thanks again Joey!

By the way, I think I need 12-6 from a one pocket champ like you!

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
 
dabarbr said:
This is a good idea. I have that problem with one of my shafts so I will try what you said. Oh and I don't think the wax will show on the pink glove.
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Oh Frank..... You have just destroyed that picture I had in my mind of you as a young Michael Corleone.

JoeyA
 
I like Slipit

Back when there was a magic product of very similar name being sold for pool cues I bought a quart of a product called Slipit. A fine lubricant specifically for wood. Works with wood, metal, and plastic. Nonflammable, nontoxic, odorless, approved for use around food but they do say not to add it directly to food so probably not the best idea to use it for salad dressing.

At about $12.00 a quart(smaller sizes available) if I remember right my bottle has went a long ways and it is what I use on my wooden threads after I give them a quick soak in thin CA glue and chase them again. Absolutely no problems and it does make a huge difference in tight threads going together and coming apart. I have used it in a handful of wood on wood, wood on plastic, and plastic on metal applications and been happy with it. My cue is G-10 to wood joint and very tight.

Joey, if you want to try a little I'll bring some next time I come that way. A dab on a cue tip is plenty in a cue joint. Others interested, the website is http://slipit.com/prodsfsc.html and the product I use is silicone free liqui-form.

The usual disclaimer: I'm not connected with the company and have no financial interest in the product.

Hu
 
ShootingArts said:
Back when there was a magic product of very similar name being sold for pool cues I bought a quart of a product called Slipit. A fine lubricant specifically for wood. Works with wood, metal, and plastic. Nonflammable, nontoxic, odorless, approved for use around food but they do say not to add it directly to food so probably not the best idea to use it for salad dressing.

At about $12.00 a quart(smaller sizes available) if I remember right my bottle has went a long ways and it is what I use on my wooden threads after I give them a quick soak in thin CA glue and chase them again. Absolutely no problems and it does make a huge difference in tight threads going together and coming apart. I have used it in a handful of wood on wood, wood on plastic, and plastic on metal applications and been happy with it. My cue is G-10 to wood joint and very tight.

Joey, if you want to try a little I'll bring some next time I come that way. A dab on a cue tip is plenty in a cue joint. Others interested, the website is http://slipit.com/prodsfsc.html and the product I use is silicone free liqui-form.

The usual disclaimer: I'm not connected with the company and have no financial interest in the product.

Hu
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I don't know about dabbing my cue tip but I would love to try some. Maybe I can see you at Buff's or maybe come check out the new shop.
JoeyA
 
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