One Pocket Question

L

LSU1018

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I actually have two questions which are not related....

First, if you are offered a game of 8-4 or 12-6, which one should you take?


Second, which book is better for one pocket out of winning one pocket or shots, moves, and strategies?
 
LSU1018 said:
I actually have two questions which are not related....

First, if you are offered a game of 8-4 or 12-6, which one should you take?


Second, which book is better for one pocket out of winning one pocket or shots, moves, and strategies?
Click to expand...
If you are the person receiving the spot 8-4 is far better a game for you than 12-6. Just as in 9ball a shorter race favors the weaker player. As far as the books are concerned I haven't read tham so I can't comment. You should check out http://onepocket.org/ if you haven't already and pose your question there.
 
LSU1018 said:
I actually have two questions which are not related....

First, if you are offered a game of 8-4 or 12-6, which one should you take?


Second, which book is better for one pocket out of winning one pocket or shots, moves, and strategies?
Click to expand...

Answer #1- I would take 8-4 and shoot at anything that stuck out.

Answer #2- Accustats tapes of one pocket matches.
 
LSU1018 said:
I actually have two questions which are not related....

First, if you are offered a game of 8-4 or 12-6, which one should you take?


Second, which book is better for one pocket out of winning one pocket or shots, moves, and strategies?
Click to expand...

If I am the lesser skilled player, I would take 12-6, now your opponent has to pocket 6 more than you. If you take 8-4, he only has to pocket 4 more than you.
 
LSU1018 said:
I actually have two questions which are not related....

First, if you are offered a game of 8-4 or 12-6, which one should you take?


Second, which book is better for one pocket out of winning one pocket or shots, moves, and strategies?
Click to expand...

It depends upon your opponent and his ability to run balls. If he is an offensive minded player and runs lots of balls, make him go to 12. If he is a tight defensive player, you want to go to 4.

Both are good books with lots of valuable info. Buy the set if possible.

You will learn a lot watching Accu-Stat matches of good players. You can 'see' the strategy in action. And what works and what doesn't.
 
LSU1018 said:
I actually have two questions which are not related....

First, if you are offered a game of 8-4 or 12-6, which one should you take?


Second, which book is better for one pocket out of winning one pocket or shots, moves, and strategies?
Click to expand...
1) 8-4 (for me).
2) I have them both, and IMO, winning one pocket is better if you could only get 1. But I believe Eddie Robin is still selling autographed copies of both...

-td
 
LSU1018 said:
I actually have two questions which are not related....

First, if you are offered a game of 8-4 or 12-6, which one should you take?


Second, which book is better for one pocket out of winning one pocket or shots, moves, and strategies?
Click to expand...

Who the heck am I playing, Efren? That's quite the weight, I doubt I'd get myself in a match up where I need that kind of weight.

Unless it's Efren of course, because I'd like to shoot at least once.:grin:

And I agree with the 8-4 spot.
 
I have a silly question....
If it's 12-6, and the score is 10-5...how do you finish the game?
 
okinawa77 said:
I have a silly question....
If it's 12-6, and the score is 10-5...how do you finish the game?
Click to expand...
Not a silly question really, but after the last ball is sunk I believe a ball placed on the spot.....

So you'd better play shape for the spot.
 
okinawa77 said:
I have a silly question....
If it's 12-6, and the score is 10-5...how do you finish the game?
Click to expand...

Flip a coin :)

The guy giving weight needs to spot his first two balls made, since the total of the balls (12+6) is 18, and not 16.

When the score is 10-5 there is still 2 balls left on the table, unless the guy giving weight have made all his 10 balls in the same turn, and is still shooting. Then he needs to spot both his balls at the same time, when there are no more balls left on the table.

Think I am correct.
 
supergreenman said:
Not a silly question really, but after the last ball is sunk I believe a ball placed on the spot.....

So you'd better play shape for the spot.
Click to expand...

Just 1 ball is spotted?
Who's ball?

Wouldn't it be better to spot 2 balls (1 from each players pocket) ?
 
Roy Steffensen said:
Flip a coin :)

The guy giving weight needs to spot his first two balls made, since the total of the balls (12+6) is 18, and not 16.

When the score is 10-5 there is still 2 balls left on the table, unless the guy giving weight have made all his 10 balls in the same turn, and is still shooting. Then he needs to spot both his balls at the same time, when there are no more balls left on the table.

Think I am correct.
Click to expand...


Now, that sounds like a good way to do it.
 
I am thinking that the weaker player would want to pocket the least number of balls. So, 8-4 would be more advantageous for the weaker player.

I think the stronger player would want the 12-6 because the weaker player would be more prone to making a mistake. Usually the difference between a strong player and a really strong player is the number of mistakes. The really strong player doesn't make mistakes as often.
 
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ACE said:
If I am the lesser skilled player, I would take 12-6, now your opponent has to pocket 6 more than you. If you take 8-4, he only has to pocket 4 more than you.
Click to expand...

i disagree with this line of thinking. if you are receiving either one of these spots, then your ability to pocket balls means alot more than your opponents. you should go for the 8-4. and, if you are playing 12-6, the person going to 12 spots the first 2 balls they make.
 
the weaker player should take 8 to 4,the lower his number the better,if the players are this unequal,the weaker player usually finds himself dead as soon as the strong player has made a few balls and taken control of the game.i have been the weaker player in 100s of these matches and i would never play a game of this much weight without the break to go with the spot.a good rule of thumb is to never let the stronger player break the ball.i have never seen anyone violate this rule and win over the long run.
 
supergreenman said:
Who the heck am I playing, Efren? That's quite the weight, I doubt I'd get myself in a match up where I need that kind of weight.

Unless it's Efren of course, because I'd like to shoot at least once.:grin:

And I agree with the 8-4 spot.
Click to expand...
You don't have to be Efren to give up that kind of weight any decent one pocket player can give up plenty of weight to a beginning one pocket player. Just a fact.
 
Accustats matches would be my primary choice to learn more about One Pocket. Reading is ok, if you have the time to read, then sit at a table, repeatedly shoot the shots, and then go play someone. I find it much easier to learn things, by watching. Accustats tapes always have very knowledgeable players doing the commentary. It don't get much better than watching Cliff, Efren, Jose, Gabe, or any number of great players, plus having guys like Grady and Billy sitting in the booth telling you what they think about the shots. Why they did this, or didn't do that. What the options are. Why the safety was better than shooting at a ball. Their opinions are the best source of learning.
 
I love to argue so much I've taken BOTH sides!

LSU1018 said:
I actually have two questions which are not related....

First, if offered a one-pocket game of 8-4 or 12-6, which one should you take?

Most would prefer the 8-4 for the weaker player and since I love to argue, I'll start with the reverse opinion.

When looking at this problem as choice between playing 4 games at 12 to 6, as compared to 6 games at 8 to 4, between a player who figures to score two-to-one over the other, I'm assuming they have fairly well-balanced games as far as their individual offensive and defensive capabilities and/or between their strategy and firepower for their level of play. In other words, I'm assuming better player is far better than the other in each and every way.

From imagining a 1,000-point game of 3-cushion, 14.1 continuous, or even one-pocket continuous (if such a game existed), it's fairly obvious that the importance of the break or first shot always diminishes as game is lengthened. For that reason you would think the longer the game the better for the weaker player since the shorter game increases the value of the break and the stronger player figures to break better.

Additionally, there's normally more balls in play in the 8-to-4 proposition game situations from a somewhat lesser end-game; more balls in play normally adds complexity which, in turn, would increase chances for the better player. The less balls in play, as when in latter part of the 12-to-6 proposition, would naturallty tend to lessen chances for the better player for the end-game situations tend to somewhat more simplified.

However, to take the opposite side of this argument, the longer the game the greater advantage can be had from beating an opponent to the next good shot at your pocket; this is far more often accomplished by the better player who can then better capitalize with somewhat longer runs as well if in the 12-to-6 proposition as compared to that of 8-to-4.

It's understood that such logic flies out the window should one of the players have one or more specific abilities far better or worse than expected in specific situations. Sorry for initial failure to review this post but believe I've expressed my points somewhat better with today's editing work.

Second question re which book better for one pocket.
Click to expand...

The W1P book should normally be read first. That said, if one must make a choice between them, go for the W1P.

For a better game, Eddie Robin
 
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