I got into a disagreement with a buddy regarding cue tightness when screwing together. I like to screw it till it stops turning and then maybe add a little twist. He on the other hand, likes to reallyyyy twist it tight. Is one method more correct? And I would also think his method can damage the cue.. what do you guys think?
perhaps silly question about joint tightness
- Thread starter semoquer
- Start date
I unseated a pin once and no longer mack it down!
Tighten the joint only slightly beyond snug. Not bone crushing tight. 
Warning Warning Warning!!!!!
Of all the joints the Ultra Joint I and Ultra Joint II are the only ones that I would feel comfortable doing this with due to its design. I wouldn't feel comfortable doing this with any other cue.
Freddie <~~~ one man's not-so-humble opinion
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The tightness requirement is different from cue to cue.
Most cues can take an amazing amount of torsional wind-up, but you still have to snug it up carefully with common sense.
I've seen stripped shaft threads, and shafts that had to be re-tapped with either a plastic sleeve or a filler.
Most cues can take an amazing amount of torsional wind-up, but you still have to snug it up carefully with common sense.
I've seen stripped shaft threads, and shafts that had to be re-tapped with either a plastic sleeve or a filler.
while most poolrooms dont have a vise there are usually a few people there to help...do this for your opponent only!
have someone hold the butt with 2 hands as tight as possible.start the shaft as delicate as possible,once it is bottomed out get vise grips(not channel locks as previously mentioned)and grab the ferrule(make sure it is half on the tip)crank down till the cracking sound comes(thats the sameclick as a torque wrench)then go 1/4 turn more...this works exceptionally well on the old stuff,bushkas,botis ginas,if you get your hands on a rambow youll need 2 people to hold thebutt.
happy screwing!
have someone hold the butt with 2 hands as tight as possible.start the shaft as delicate as possible,once it is bottomed out get vise grips(not channel locks as previously mentioned)and grab the ferrule(make sure it is half on the tip)crank down till the cracking sound comes(thats the sameclick as a torque wrench)then go 1/4 turn more...this works exceptionally well on the old stuff,bushkas,botis ginas,if you get your hands on a rambow youll need 2 people to hold thebutt.
happy screwing!
Apply your torque wrench to a strap wrench.
No cue case should be without this set-up. :thumbup:
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:lol::lol::lol::lol:
To bad cue makers don't have torque spec. like automobile manufacturers . My Dad always told me to hand thread new spark plugs , but he he didn't tell me exactly how tight to tighten a oil filter when you didn't have a filter wrench , it was a problem when i put a new filter on till experience taught me better. Lug nuts same problem , eventually used a torque wrench.If you have a full thread pin i would just tighten it snug , i've never had a cue with a quick release pin , so your on your own:smile:.
I had a Mike Bender a bought in the mid 90s, simple 5 point no veneers or inlays, just his standard ring track on the butt, above/below the wrap, joint and shaft. Loved the craftsmanship as the tracks lined up perfectly when looking down the cue.
One day, probably due to my cranking up the tightness, the joint pin started to loosen up. Got it fixed (not by Mike), but the line up of ring trim afterwards wasn't there at the shaft. Still had a solid hit, but my friends constantly bugged me when I missed shots that it was because the rings were off.
Snug enough to where a center ball hit sounds normal is my humble opinion.
One day, probably due to my cranking up the tightness, the joint pin started to loosen up. Got it fixed (not by Mike), but the line up of ring trim afterwards wasn't there at the shaft. Still had a solid hit, but my friends constantly bugged me when I missed shots that it was because the rings were off.
Snug enough to where a center ball hit sounds normal is my humble opinion.
Tighten it good and tight, place a dab o super glue, tighten on a vice as tight as you can get it, then put in a couple of sheet metal screws and hammer them down so you don't nick your fingers.:speechless:...Oh, and then buy a longer case.
A uni-lock tightens better when it is slightly lubricated. Hand tighten then give it one more snugging. You can whack the side of the cue with your hand and feel if there is any vibration from being too loose. Check it again after a hard draw shot.
Jeff Livingston
A uni-lock tightens better when it is slightly lubricated. Hand tighten then give it one more snugging. You can whack the side of the cue with your hand and feel if there is any vibration from being too loose. Check it again after a hard draw shot.
Jeff Livingston
Yes, but...
Yeah, but what about the cue?
Screw it until it stops. Have a girl twist it one more time. Should be good then. I have girls tighten mine whenever possible.
If you use a torque wrench, 5 foot pounds is plenty.:grin:
Yeah, but what about the cue?
Get a couple of oil filter wrenches with the rubber belts. Put one on the shaft and one on the butt, near the joint. Get a couple of three-foot long cheater pipes and a couple of B-I-I-I-I-G Samoans to work this setup and you should be able to get your cue screwed together (or.....just SCREWED)!!!.
Don't try this method with a Uni-Loc joint though because a 4 year-old girl can strip one of those out!!!
Maniac
Don't try this method with a Uni-Loc joint though because a 4 year-old girl can strip one of those out!!!
Maniac
Some pin styles seem more susceptable to loosening than others. Higher thread counts will avoid this, but take longer to screw in. A higher thread count gives the torsion force more mechanical advantage in establishing compression force (and therefore, friction to resist loosening) at the joint faces.
The pin is there simply to maintain concentricity and face to face contact at the joint. The pin remains in tension to ensure the faces remain in compression.
Therefore, tight enough to not unscrew, but not super tight. That should be enough and you won't risk damaging your cue.
The pin is there simply to maintain concentricity and face to face contact at the joint. The pin remains in tension to ensure the faces remain in compression.
Therefore, tight enough to not unscrew, but not super tight. That should be enough and you won't risk damaging your cue.