What is the best glue or epoxy, being used in today's cue building, to put a 3/8-10 pin into a butt of a cue?
pin glue / epoxy
- Thread starter captainjko
- Start date
I am sure there are others, but Devcon 2T would be a dandy. It is a 24 hour cure.
Thanks.. I did a search earlier and the G/Flex was what someone mentioned a few years ago so I thought I would see what today's builders are using...
I use 5 minute epoxy. IMHO, 5 minute epoxy is plenty strong enough to last as long as the cue is taken care of... and it makes the pin easier to remove if needed.
5 minute epoxy does not exist for me in cue building. I use West System 206 for everything.
5 minute epoxy is probably to worst glue you can use in cue building. I know cuemakers that used on their pins and the pin came out when unscrewing the shaft. When the pin is heated it comes out really easy with the WS 206.
I am actually using this glue pump from Michael Engineering, the Sticky Stuff Dispenser A:
http://www.michaelengineering.com/Pumps/Manual/StickyStuffDispenser/
No waste on glue on don't have to weigh the glue anymore.
5 minute epoxy is probably to worst glue you can use in cue building. I know cuemakers that used on their pins and the pin came out when unscrewing the shaft. When the pin is heated it comes out really easy with the WS 206.
I am actually using this glue pump from Michael Engineering, the Sticky Stuff Dispenser A:
http://www.michaelengineering.com/Pumps/Manual/StickyStuffDispenser/
No waste on glue on don't have to weigh the glue anymore.
I use West 206-105 combo as well.
It's thin so blowout chances is less likely unless you thicken it too much..
G-Flex would be fine.
It's a little thicker .
Make sure you have a glue channel on that screw.
Grind a flat to help it not spin.
I also like dropping the epoxy on the cue off the lathe.
I stand it and drop the epoxy. That way the epoxy penetrates the bottom and the walls ( wicking action ) before I put the screw it.
It's thin so blowout chances is less likely unless you thicken it too much..
G-Flex would be fine.
It's a little thicker .
Make sure you have a glue channel on that screw.
Grind a flat to help it not spin.
I also like dropping the epoxy on the cue off the lathe.
I stand it and drop the epoxy. That way the epoxy penetrates the bottom and the walls ( wicking action ) before I put the screw it.
That ^. I use 5-min for exactly the reasons Chris just said. Upon reading the rest of the thread, it's obvious once again how wrong I have been all these years
Thanks for the tip on glue channel.. That makes a lot of sense...
That's more important than the adhesive used, IMO.
As for blowouts, I prevent it by only applying glue to the pin. I don't put glue in the hole. My pin fits pretty well, anyway, so the glue acts as more of a thread-lock than an adhesive to keep it in place. I use just a tiny dab of 5-min on the ground flat, and the pin stays put.
Oh Boy.
Kim. I hope your sitting down.
Captain J
Kim is absolutely correct. Learn from doing and not from being told what to do.
JC
Coos Cues
This forum is really baffling sometimes.
If you come on here and ask "how it's done" most will help you. Some however will tell you to figure it out yourself and stop trying to take shortcuts. Both positions have validity.
If you come back later and describe some way you're doing it that's not "how it's done" the same ones who told you to figure it out will be the first to tell you "THAT'S NOT HOW IT'S DONE YOU IDIOT!
I love this place
JC
If you come on here and ask "how it's done" most will help you. Some however will tell you to figure it out yourself and stop trying to take shortcuts. Both positions have validity.
If you come back later and describe some way you're doing it that's not "how it's done" the same ones who told you to figure it out will be the first to tell you "THAT'S NOT HOW IT'S DONE YOU IDIOT!
I love this place
JC
Since you are quoting me Kim as a self proclaimed expert... My comments are related to people that I know that used 5 minute epoxy and had failures. Only had to remove a pin once from one of my cues and I had no problems using WS 206 and removing the pin.
If you love using 5 minute epoxy, used it all you want...
I am not going to start an argument on epoxies but I am using what I feel it's safe. If anybody else uses another epoxy, super glue or duck tape more power to you.
Based on threads and screw ups I have seen on here, I am sticking with System Three T88 on anything cue related or WS 206/105 which what I use 90% of the time. Just my thoughts based on my experience but maybe I don't know anything about cues either...
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Does T-88 harden clear or slightly yellow like G/flex?
That ^. I use 5-min for exactly the reasons Chris just said. Upon reading the rest of the thread, it's obvious once again how wrong I have been all these years
The guy whose moniker is "slower than snails" uses 5 minute epoxy? :sorry:
Depending on the quality of your work you might be better off using one glue over another. Myself, I always use 5 minute for joint screws, Haven.t had one come loose yet and it is the best epoxy for ease or removal of the screw should it become necessary. If you have one come out while unscrewing the shaft it would be because something was wrong such as to little glue, too loose a hole, too tight a shaft, incorrectly mixed glue, too long a time before assembly, or dirty screw surface(wax, oil). Some glue joints are structural and should be forever, others while permanent should be reversible.
The guy whose moniker is "slower than snails" uses 5 minute epoxy? :sorry:
But not for speed. I use it specifically for it's lack of strength. Paul articulated it perfectly, expounding on what Chris A. posted. If your joint work is of adequate quality, there's no need for strong epoxy. For once I actually agree with Whammo 110%. If you're doing something & it works, who's to say it's wrong?