Pool Table Spots
- Thread starter Johnnyt
- Start date
Master Spots
Spots don't like to stick on my table. Now I just use paper hole reinforcements.
Yep.....
The best brand of spot to put on the table is sharpie. There's no need to have a spot when you can draw them on. I won't put a spot on my table anymore. I just draw the kitchen lines and then a line going straight back to the rail from where the spot should be. Then I make little lines on the side balls once the balls are racked perfectly the first time and then if you rack the balls the same way you never have to worry about the balls falling off when you rack.
Jaden
Johnnyt said:
The best brand of spot to put on the table is sharpie. There's no need to have a spot when you can draw them on. I won't put a spot on my table anymore. I just draw the kitchen lines and then a line going straight back to the rail from where the spot should be. Then I make little lines on the side balls once the balls are racked perfectly the first time and then if you rack the balls the same way you never have to worry about the balls falling off when you rack.
Jaden
It was always my belief that the spot protected the cloth during the impact on the break where the CB drives the 1 into the cloth.
If you only use a sharpie, there would be no protection.
Is this not true??
I have done both BTW and prefer the sharpie method myself!!
Russ....
If you only use a sharpie, there would be no protection.
Is this not true??
I have done both BTW and prefer the sharpie method myself!!
Russ....
poolhustler said:
MY "TIGHT" TABLE HERE AT THE POOL ROOM DOESN'T HAVE SPOTS. THE GUYS INSISTED THAT IT CHENGED THE BALL PATH ON SHOTS CROSSING OVER IT.
THE LACK OF A SPOT HAS ALLOWED DAMAGE TO OCCUR TO THE SLATE WHERE THE HEAD BALL GOES.
I WILL NOT DO ANOTHER TABLE AGAIN WITHOUT A FOOT SPOT.
P.S. IF THE SPOTS DON'T STICK, USE A THIN COAT OF AEROSOL SPRAY ADHESIVE ON THE BACK OF THE SPOT. SPRAY THE SPOT WITH THE CAN ABOUT 18" AWAY, AND LET THE GLUE GET TACKY BEFORE YOU APPLY THE SPOT TO THE TABLE.
From the reading I have done on the mechanics section, the spot is to protect the slate from the airborne cue ball that slams into the head ball.FAST_N_LOOSE said:
There is a post from RKC at the end of this thread that goes into it a bit.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=123529
spots
For a 1 pocket only table leave the spot off,you can draw on a T line or a triangle as for 14:1.If a table is used just for 9 ball you probably need stick-on spots as well as changing what end of the table you break from once in a while if you can.Personaly I like to see the lines,rack triangle and break box with a kitchen line on every table.
Don't know which spots work best but I have been seeing a lot of cheap spots that stain the 1 ball and sometimes the CB.
For a 1 pocket only table leave the spot off,you can draw on a T line or a triangle as for 14:1.If a table is used just for 9 ball you probably need stick-on spots as well as changing what end of the table you break from once in a while if you can.Personaly I like to see the lines,rack triangle and break box with a kitchen line on every table.
Don't know which spots work best but I have been seeing a lot of cheap spots that stain the 1 ball and sometimes the CB.
Is there any way to fix a hole at the foot spot? (that will last)
Dartman said:Tefco Master Spots by Tweeten work well.
They come 12 in a tin.
Dartman knows what he's talking about and I tried several different kinds and this is the one to use Johnny.
Just dampen the back, lay it on the spot spot and roll it down with a ball. Don't get it toooo wet.. just dampen it with your tongue or some water on your finger. A sponge/rag got it too wet when I tried it.
Have a Pepsi close by to take the taste out of your mouth. :groucho:
For straight pool or one pocket a sharpie is best but if you're breaking the balls you gotta have a spot and a break pad... imo.