Predator repair?
- Thread starter snipershot
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I would use a larger butt cap of a strong material such as Ivorine 4. When you have turned the butt down for the new butt cap, try to get some glue in the crack. I would also make the butt cap longer, maybe an inch. This would probably stop the crack from spreading. This would probably cost around $40.00
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$40 bucks for a new butt sleeve, new butt cap, and a refinish?
Now that's a good deal!Mr H
so just filling it with super glue wont fix it eh? hehe. I dont really want to lose the predator logo on the butt. Any other ideas out there?
The crack can be filled with glue if done correctly and that should stop It from getting worse, but You really need a new sleeve for that.
Edit Missed the logo part, It could be glued and saved as long as the crack doesn't go through It, but won't be near as strong as a fix as It would with a new sleeve, so It's anyone's guess as to just how well It will hold. I would send It back to Pred If that option was available to You.
Greg
Edit Missed the logo part, It could be glued and saved as long as the crack doesn't go through It, but won't be near as strong as a fix as It would with a new sleeve, so It's anyone's guess as to just how well It will hold. I would send It back to Pred If that option was available to You.
Greg
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Try to drop a PM to KJ (KJ cues). A LOT of Predators go through his hands since Seybert's is an authorized Predator repair center.
its not a sleeve, this is a sneaky, so no butt sleeve, unless you mean the white butt cap. I intend on using this cue as a player, so, it doesnt have to be pretty, just functional. thanks for the input.
will do, thanks a lot.
Do you want it fixed correctly or not? Sure you can go ahead and use "any other ideas out there" and have it fixed half azz...then you'll have a very good chance that the crack will continue until your weight bolt is buzzing and won't stay in place. The logo really doesn't matter...who cares? Are you afraid someone won't be able to read that you are playing with a Predator? Its not like its going to hurt the value. The cue is worth more with the crack fixed correctly & a phenolic buttcap epoxied and threaded on vs. the broken cheap plastic ring and a crack filled with superglue. If you care about the cue then spend the $40-50 and have it fixed the right way. As for the logo...it really matters not. I for one would much rather it not advertise if I was using it. The only time the logo would be a concern is if its an older collectable cue & you are removing say the "Brunswick" sticker.
Yes I was referring to sleeving a butt cap where the old one is. If You add say a Phenolic cap in place of where that white cap is Like Kevin just mentioned, then It should solve your problem. If You make the butt cap fit snug, then It also works as clamp to aid in pulling the split in the cue closed after you glue. It's not a hard repair, really very basic stuff for most guys, but is better left to someone with the equipment for It.
Also Keep in mind You only really get one shot at getting that glue down in there deep, which is what You want so the cue doesn't rattle, and not only for strength and protection, but that new cap helps compress the 2 sides back together as mentioned, so the weight bolt doesn't rattle or strip out. If that happens your looking at another repair,
and you have to get the cue cored to hold a weight bolt again.
As far as replacing the logo after the proper repair is complete, your repairman can always make one and apply it during the finishing stages. Remember the old deals you got in model kits as a kit that you soaked in water to apply? That type of transfer material is available for inkjet and laser printers. You can print the logo on a piece of it and apply it between coats of finish. I've done this to replace the Viking name on a buttcap when I did a refinish not long ago. Or, Predator has transfers available to cuemakers to apply to shafts when they finish "partials". Maybe they also make the buttcap logos available as well? Someone else may be able to offer more information in this regard.
Do you want it fixed correctly or not? Sure you can go ahead and use "any other ideas out there" and have it fixed half azz...then you'll have a very good chance that the crack will continue until your weight bolt is buzzing and won't stay in place. The logo really doesn't matter...who cares? Are you afraid someone won't be able to read that you are playing with a Predator? Its not like its going to hurt the value. The cue is worth more with the crack fixed correctly & a phenolic buttcap epoxied and threaded on vs. the broken cheap plastic ring and a crack filled with superglue. If you care about the cue then spend the $40-50 and have it fixed the right way. As for the logo...it really matters not. I for one would much rather it not advertise if I was using it. The only time the logo would be a concern is if its an older collectable cue & you are removing say the "Brunswick" sticker.
perhaps I should have been a little clearer. I want it fixed so that the crack will not spread any further, so I want that part done right, not half-azz. However, I plan on using this cue for an everyday player, but, it is an old green veneered predator sp, and from what I am told, these are becoming rare. Like I said, I plan on using it, but even so, if its got some value, I would hate to remove the original predator logo. Maybe if I send it to predator, they can put it back on?
I'm sure they made and sold plenty of them. They were very low priced. You could get one for not much more than the cost of just the Predator shaft. If they are now getting rare I would have to believe that they don't hold up to usage very well.
Dick
but, it is an old green veneered predator sp, and from what I am told, these are becoming rare.
They left a ton of blanks in Canada when they left for China.
I had a few of those blanks.
Just like yours, the grain pattern at the bottom were horrible.
If you want to keep playing with that cue, I recommend getting it fixed and built for life.
They left a ton of blanks in Canada when they left for China.
I had a few of those blanks.
Just like yours, the grain pattern at the bottom were horrible.
If you want to keep playing with that cue, I recommend getting it fixed and built for life.
I guess I have been told wrong. If it has no real collecter value, then I might as well get it fixed up right. I was told that the green veneered ones were worth more, because they were made in the USA. It doesnt really matter, for what I gave for it, even if I have to spend 40-50 bucks on it, I cant get hurt on it:thumbup: thanks for all the input fellas.
You can drill a small hole at the end of the crack.It will help stop the crack from spreading.Then fill with the thin toughened super glue from the hobby shop.The thin Ca
will penetrate and capillery down the crackline.
This is a suggestion for keeping as much of the original handle as possible.
Also , don't let people bounce the cue onto the floor like I saw at a bar the other night.
Neil
will penetrate and capillery down the crackline.
This is a suggestion for keeping as much of the original handle as possible.
Also , don't let people bounce the cue onto the floor like I saw at a bar the other night.
Neil
Way to go KJ! :thumbup:
damn, that looks good! Im bummed that I just now found the pic on here! lol! Looking forward to trying it out, thanks again KJ.