Predator Sneaky Pete's Ever try one???

NINEBALLART

NINEBALLART
Silver Member
I was wondering about the new Predator wood to wood Sneaky Pete's....Does anyone play with one and how do you rate it?? What about the Everest tip that's on it ?? Give me some feedback please.....
 
I play with and love predators wood to wood sneakies. I think they have a solid hit and play extremely well. As far as the tip, i've always been a fan of Moori's, not really thrilled with Everst tips myself.
 
NINEBALLART said:
I was wondering about the new Predator wood to wood Sneaky Pete's....Does anyone play with one and how do you rate it?? What about the Everest tip that's on it ?? Give me some feedback please.....

I played with one for somewhere between 6-8 months. The worst 300 dollars I've ever spent. I would rank 1 out of 10, with 10 being the highest. I bought a dufferin old stock cue for 30 bucks on ebay and I'd rate it higher.
 
I hit with one that had the old 314 shaft on it. Had decent balance and hit well. And that's coming from a USS guy.

tim
 
I like mine Art, probably the most consistent hitting cue I've ever played with...Marc
 
My Predator sneaky pete plays exactly the same as my "fancy" cue with the same model Predator shaft. (Both cues are same exact weight and I have same Moori hard tips on both with same dime tip shape.)
 
I've had mine for a little over a year and a half and I absolutely love it. I've read here some folks prefer the stiffer feel of the SS joint, but I've been okay with the wood to wood.

It's really not a wood to wood in the classic sense. There is a phenolic insert that "stiffens" things up a bit.

The Everest tips are excellent tips. A little on the harder side. If you've never used one before, I would recommend giving it a try rather than spending up replacing it with something else. I have a Sniper on mine now that's getting pretty hard with age and I'm not so sure I would be able to tell the difference between a four month old Sniper and a four month old Everest in a blind test.
 
NINEBALLART said:
I was wondering about the new Predator wood to wood Sneaky Pete's....Does anyone play with one and how do you rate it?? What about the Everest tip that's on it ?? Give me some feedback please.....

how about a predator sneaky wood to wood ob-1. all logos are off. it's untreated and will stay that way. sniper on top of course. i guess it doesn't fit the feedback you asked for, but i do really like the hit, look and feel of untreated wood.
 
i'm currently shooting with a stock predator 5k4 with 314-2 shaft and a guy i play league with has the stock sp4rw with 314-2 shaft. i've played with his sp alittle and other than a very miniscule barley noticible slightly softer feal, theres no real discernable differance in hit that i could pick up on. definatly a good bang for the buck for those not really concerned with looks and only performance.
 
I had one of the new red 8 pointers with the linen wrap, and I must admit it was an excellent cue for the money.

Danny
 
thedude said:
I played with one for somewhere between 6-8 months. The worst 300 dollars I've ever spent. I would rank 1 out of 10, with 10 being the highest. I bought a dufferin old stock cue for 30 bucks on ebay and I'd rate it higher.

I HAD THE SAME EXPERIENCE, I REALLY PLAY WELL WITH THE DUFFERIN. WELL, GOOD FOR ME ANYWAYS.
 
THe predator sneakies play real sweet after you have Kevin Varney change the pin over to 3/8 by 10 wood to wood with the big pin, I own two of the greenies like this and one of them has an OB 1 shaft. They shoot great and look good so I have been looking for a good deal on one of the red 8 pointers to convert to the bigger pin,--Leonard
 
How much does Varney charge to change the pin ? Does that mean the Predator shaft changes to 3/8 x 10 also ??? Or do you have to go to another shaft ???
 
Now I use it as a break cue.

Now I use it as a break cue, but I had a green one that was a plain wood to wood sneaky that I changed dramatically. I added a green/b;ack speckled wrap, I added phenolic joint and shaft collars and I cut off the ferrule and drilled out the foam core and put a new tenon and ferrule on it. It played sweet after that and is a really straight shooter. I had to do that with the ferrule because I use BHE and needed the pivot point ot be in a better place.

I now play with a different cue and will be changing up again here in a few once I get the fisher cue I just got to help support TAR. I'll still be using the Predator to break with though because I love the way it breaks.
 
PM kevin for a price but the shaft only gets opened up to bigger thread size after he swaps the pin, my latest one he did has the G 10 3/8 10 pin and it hits real strong. The first one he did for me has the big brass pin like a Southwest and KV added a hoppe ring and some real pretty green notched rings to match the green veneers with two green rings on either side of the hoppe ring and one of his aaa grade maple shafts for a spare, this cue gets alot of oohs and aahs in a poolroom.--Leonard

If you get a used one it won't matter if you send it to KV cause it will be shiney and slick when you get it back.
 
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poolcuemaster said:
PM kevin for a price but the shaft only gets opened up to bigger thread size after he swaps the pin, my latest one he did has the G 10 3/8 10 pin and it hits real strong. The first one he did for me has the big brass pin like a Southwest and KV added a hoppe ring and some real pretty green notched rings to match the green veneers with two green rings on either side of the hoppe ring and one of his aaa grade maple shafts for a spare, this cue gets alot of oohs and aahs in a poolroom.--Leonard

If you get a used one it won't matter if you send it to KV cause it will be shiney and slick when you get it back.

Do you happen to have any pics? Very interested in swapping out the uniloc.

Thanks
Chuck
 
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