I get this final 2 all the time and I might as well just concede. Where do you get to make the 8 to the 9 not so difficult for a C/D player keeping in mind that we are liable to blow the positon by at least 2-3 inches and need a shot with a wide margin of error.
That is the question- Where should the CB be to make the 8 to the 9 a possibility for C/D right handed player? Im sorry this is so simple for the players out there.
The draw shot for a right hander is not really viable IMO not to mention that if you are 2 inches off on Po trying to get there, it just isnt there period. A C/D isnt likely to get perfect.
The 3 railer is a tough shot too and you can wind up with a 75-90 degree cut much of the time too.
I'm right handed. I'd use the bridge and draw back psat the side pocket. Keeping it off the rail. I don't see the problem for a D/C player. There are a lot of ways to play it that are easy. Johnnyt
The draw show for a right hander is not really viable IMO not to mention that if you are 2 inches off on Po trying to get there, it just isnt there period. A C/D isnt likely to get perfect.
The 3 railer is a tough shot too and you can wind up with a 75-90 degree cut much of the time too.
if the draw shot's too hard to play shape for leave the cue ball further away that'll keep the same angle.
the 3 railer is pretty natural if you get the right angle. experiment with a little. there comes a point where you can't say "i can't get there most of the time because i'm a c/d player" you have to do it or you won't get out.
IMO for a c/d player it is a low percentage out all around, but by practicing a particular scenario over and over again it could become easier over time no matter which way you hit it. I prefer my placement of the QB and english because that's just the way I practiced a scenario much the same way.
The one thing you can take comfort in is that this is a tough out for anyone. Assuming you have ball in hand, here are a few options (5 pages):
1) This is probably the easiest path, because all it takes is a nice fluid draw stroke. You don't have to draw it the length of the table, just far enough that you're comfortable making the 9. Those extra couple feet make a big difference, and they cut down on the chance that you'll scratch in the top right corner. A lot of players tend to put the cue ball right on the rail because the object ball is on the rail. DON'T! Give yourself the slightest angle. That also helps to keep you out of the scratch, and it helps to avoid the groove in the felt that you'll find along the rail on old cloth.
2 and 3) When you've got an object ball in the middle of an end rail, it pays to know how to get to that second diamond on the side rail as a target. Once you hit that second diamond, your position gets continually better the closer you get to the object ball. You'll have to play around with the cue ball position to find the angle that works for your stroke, but again, your target is that second diamond. The key on both shots is to hit the object ball before the rail. If you hit the rail first, the scratch in the lower left hand corner or the side (depending on the shot) become pretty big.
4 and 5) If you're not convinced that you can get out from there, there's no shame in playing safe, particularly if you're playing another D/C player who's liable to go for a wild shot and leave you an easy out. Pages 4 and 5 are variations on the same safety. The key on both is getting the 8 ball to the middle of the end rail. You're leaving your opponent a bank, but no bank is ever a gimme, and position on the 9 will be tough.
Play around with them all. Those are the shots I use in that situation. I'm sure someone else on here has more options for you. I'm kind of interested to see what everyone else says as well.
